Killer Chiller install
03-09-2010, 12:00 AM
#1
Killer Chiller install
I don't think anyone has posted any kind of install for the Killer Chiller unit so here is my brief take on it. All and all it's pretty easy esp if one excludes insulating all the hoses.
So the first thing I did was pulled the front fascia off.
Then found a suitable place to mount the KC unit that would not have clearance issues, marked and drilled two holes and bolted the mounting bracket in place. I had to trim the foam bumper support material just a bit to allow it to fit snug to the bumper again.
Then came the really time consuming part. I wanted to maximize the efficiency of the KC unit so I took the liberty of insulating all the hoses for the HE unit. Plus this way when I'm at the track and the lines have icy cold fluid running through them they wont be dripping condensation all over the track. I just used pipe insulating tubes for household plumbing and zip tied them to all the hoses in the entire coolant circuit. It took quite a while and needless to say everything is packed pretty tight under the hood now. Getting all the HE lines and in/out line for the KC unit to run under the driver side headlight without having them put pressure on the underside of the headlight and therefore causing it to tilt up was like playing a game of tetris.
Then I took insulating tape and layered it on the bottom of the option b tank as well.
Then I bolted the TVS back on.
I'm not going to bother hooking the KC up to the AC just yet as I need to break the clutch in before I can even drive the car hard anyways.
So the first thing I did was pulled the front fascia off.
Then found a suitable place to mount the KC unit that would not have clearance issues, marked and drilled two holes and bolted the mounting bracket in place. I had to trim the foam bumper support material just a bit to allow it to fit snug to the bumper again.
Then came the really time consuming part. I wanted to maximize the efficiency of the KC unit so I took the liberty of insulating all the hoses for the HE unit. Plus this way when I'm at the track and the lines have icy cold fluid running through them they wont be dripping condensation all over the track. I just used pipe insulating tubes for household plumbing and zip tied them to all the hoses in the entire coolant circuit. It took quite a while and needless to say everything is packed pretty tight under the hood now. Getting all the HE lines and in/out line for the KC unit to run under the driver side headlight without having them put pressure on the underside of the headlight and therefore causing it to tilt up was like playing a game of tetris.
Then I took insulating tape and layered it on the bottom of the option b tank as well.
Then I bolted the TVS back on.
I'm not going to bother hooking the KC up to the AC just yet as I need to break the clutch in before I can even drive the car hard anyways.
03-09-2010, 12:31 AM
#2
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I am really interested to see what the gains are and or how low your iat2's really end up getting. I bet this will net you some decent gains. Glad to see you went this route!
05-24-2010, 10:47 PM
#12
Update.
Well to say that I am frustrated and underwhelmed with this system would be a huge understatement. I went through the trouble of insulating all my H/E lines, all my AC lines and insulating and wrapping my H/E's because I was certain the system would run cold enough that the H/E's would actually heat the fluid up. At the end of the day I saw a 2 deg drop in AIT2's cruising around and no noticeable diff on any sort of pull.
I drove around at roughly 60kph for and hour freezing my ***** off thinking that it might just take time to cool down and having a decent amount of air flow through the ac condenser would help, nope. I sat and idled the car for 20 min and after all that checked the coolant temp 7 deg above ambient. I don't know if the problem is that my coolant system has 4.5+ liters of fluid and the KC can't handle that much, but frankly for $550 I don't care if my system has 45 liters I should see a measurable drop in temps. The AC line going into the KC box is cold, the line coming out is not. However the HE line coming out does in no way reflect this. I'm going to try and find one of those laser temp guns and get some temp from the inlet/outlet connectors on the box cause I don't know if mine is defective or it just is not all that it is cracked up to be.
To put the icing on the cake when I was heading home some putz in a POS hella flush hack job civic pulled up next to me and guns it. About a half way into second gear my car goes into limp mode for no ******* reason and he flies by. FML.
Well to say that I am frustrated and underwhelmed with this system would be a huge understatement. I went through the trouble of insulating all my H/E lines, all my AC lines and insulating and wrapping my H/E's because I was certain the system would run cold enough that the H/E's would actually heat the fluid up. At the end of the day I saw a 2 deg drop in AIT2's cruising around and no noticeable diff on any sort of pull.
I drove around at roughly 60kph for and hour freezing my ***** off thinking that it might just take time to cool down and having a decent amount of air flow through the ac condenser would help, nope. I sat and idled the car for 20 min and after all that checked the coolant temp 7 deg above ambient. I don't know if the problem is that my coolant system has 4.5+ liters of fluid and the KC can't handle that much, but frankly for $550 I don't care if my system has 45 liters I should see a measurable drop in temps. The AC line going into the KC box is cold, the line coming out is not. However the HE line coming out does in no way reflect this. I'm going to try and find one of those laser temp guns and get some temp from the inlet/outlet connectors on the box cause I don't know if mine is defective or it just is not all that it is cracked up to be.
To put the icing on the cake when I was heading home some putz in a POS hella flush hack job civic pulled up next to me and guns it. About a half way into second gear my car goes into limp mode for no ******* reason and he flies by. FML.
05-24-2010, 11:37 PM
#15
Newp. Only 4 lines running into the thing, pretty hard to **** up. AC is still cold as ever, and like I said I can feel a temp diff between the AC line in and line out, but not the H/E line in line out. I know the fluid is flowing though it, it's just not cooling down for whatever reason.
05-25-2010, 12:55 AM
#20
Oh ya I forgot to mention, since I had both my HE's blocked off to keep air passing through them it also prevented some air from passing through my radiator so my engine coolant temps went up 10 deg. It was like an extra kick in the ***** LOL.
05-25-2010, 05:25 AM
#25
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interesting.
Was your system filled back up with freon after the install?
On single pass, with killer chiller your IAT2's should have dropped more than 2*.
As for the limp mode, that's gonna be something different and unrelated to the KC IMO.
SOrry to hear of the recent misfortune. Good luck with everything though.
Both heat exchangers???
as in stock HE and aftermarket?
Either get rid of the aftermarket or get rid of the stocker and only run 1 H/E.
lessen the amount of coolant that the KC has to cool down.
Also, run the car(IIRC A/C on) prior to any pulls. That should also drop your IAT2's.
look around.
info is on this site.
as well as in this very thread........
Was your system filled back up with freon after the install?
On single pass, with killer chiller your IAT2's should have dropped more than 2*.
As for the limp mode, that's gonna be something different and unrelated to the KC IMO.
SOrry to hear of the recent misfortune. Good luck with everything though.
as in stock HE and aftermarket?
Either get rid of the aftermarket or get rid of the stocker and only run 1 H/E.
lessen the amount of coolant that the KC has to cool down.
Also, run the car(IIRC A/C on) prior to any pulls. That should also drop your IAT2's.
info is on this site.
as well as in this very thread........
Last edited by G85 SS; 05-25-2010 at 05:25 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
