With me trying to be as nice as possible:

Your a moron...

 

It has EVERYTHING to do with the tuner. The GM tunes dont make as much power as some but they work in all conditions and make power in all those conditions. When you pay for a tune you should be able to drive it HARD ALL DAY without any repercussions. I've tuned 3 cars including my own and I WILL sacrifice power for durability and won't tune the car any other way. 2 of the 3 cars are beat on constantly and endure alot of abuse and are fine and make great power. The other one sits in a garage all day cuz Bill likes to look pretty more than be fast, lol.

 

Mature and Usefull... Like all of your other posts...




Idiot..

 

Thanks, I try . Like your one to talk...


btw Tell me I'm unjustified in my statement

http://youtube.com/watch?v=5i2H6Y1XiVQ

Also the ecotec has the most achievements/records over any other rpo engine

 

I had an INTENSE Stage 4 w/2.5" and a cold air intake and a stock exhaust.....yes a stock exhaust.

Now I've already been hit with all the comments and remarks and BS.....so you can leave them out on this thread.

You have to understand what is happening in your engine, what is normal and what you NEED to do to defeat the heat, knock, excessive coolant usage , etc. I was all pumped up on making boost (my first blown engine....pun not intended) that I didn't care about anything else. I now realize that you need to support your mods. If you let air in....let it out. If you add fuel....add air. etc.

Through my expensive mistake.....I've learned so much, and now I should have no engine problems. Eveyday I learn something new.

 

My stock engine blew. Something about bolt in the timing tensioner rattling around in the engine

 

That'll do it, lol. You got it replaced under warranty I hope.

 

So how's your car running again?

It's not the tuners fault that a car was tuned and then mods were added afterward. Adding an intake, headers, downpipe, etc. after the car was tuned make a big difference. For example, a last night we added an cai to an SS and guess what, it caused the afr to lean out by one full point. Had the car not been retuned he very well could have run into problems. How is that the tuners fault? They tune for the mods on the car at the time, not what is added later.

 

Exactly. You must of missed the thread about what made it do what it did. I few of rob's "tricks" did it in.

 

i have stage 4 right now and its running great. now mind you i am away from my car right now so i havnt driven it hard in cold weather and dont plan to until i get home and get her tuned.

 

how about 2.8 pulley? is it necesary for me to put exhaust mods?

 

I agree with you here but I would like to point out that because the pistons are cast that is the variable that is most out of control. Just dyno the car, tune to the max without preignition to not exceed 295WHP. at 15% drivedrain loss that is below 350HP. If your that worried about it the next mod you should get is pistons. You will have a bullet proof motor and gain HP with a 10:1 piston. JUST DO IT>

 

Intense has been pretty emphatic that all their tuning was purposely done with the stock intake tube because maf sensor placement was so critial . There may have been a handful of people that followed that advise .

My car is doing the total opposite in the cold . Sub 30* its running quite a bit richer than normal with Robs tune . Long term fuel trim #'s went from 0- +4 to anywhere from +5-+13 . Its overcompensating for the air a bit making run rich , it takes about 1 day now for my tailpipe tip to be covered in soot .

Know whats going with your **** . Most of these shops will retune for FREE if theres problems . Except for actual component failures like the timing issue listed above , most of these failures related to fueling are SOOOOOOOOO freakin preventable its not even funny .

 

well this is kinda off topic, but im knocking pretty bad now in the cold weather, once i heard it i stopped getting on her. Would some octane booster remedy this problem? Until i can get a tune? If not ill just keep it under 12lbs of boost and i should be safe right?

 

^^^ you can "try" octane booster , it may help the situation a bit . If its knocking under boost , I would just drive the car normally until u can get it tuned . Because I can bet its also pretty damn lean leading up to the point the pcm starts retarding timing .


I would put the 3.0 back on in the cold months , especially if u have no way to see whats going goin on via a scan tool . IMO the 2.8 works the 42's a lil too hard as it is .

 

If you are going to mod the car, be sure to set aside the money for repairs and invest in a Wideband to monitor your AFR. I guarantee that most of those engines would have been fine had the drivers been monitoring the AFR and making sure the car was not running lean. Custom tunes can react differently and like mentioned above, you have to decide if you want a safer all round tune or a all out power tune. One will allow your motor to survive condition changes, one will be severally finicky. Either one you should be monitoring how the engine is running at all times to ensure it's longevity.

 

i have an intense stage 5 tune, cai, 3in exhaust, and 2.6 pulley for several months. In the summer when it was in the 80s and 90s i had to add about 2% of fuel to get my afr 11.3-11.6. Now that it is in the 30s and 40s i have had to add about 5% of fuel to get my afr where i want them. i know some of you will say that is to rich but i am getting good power, and this is where i have all way tuned my evo and dsm. i like a safe afr.

 

11.5 at WOT is desired by boosted motors because they create so much more heat. By keping tabs on your AFR you should have a motor that will last longer than most. The trick is to keep it tuned in right for the conditions.

 

Run Super 94, (You should anyways)

Octaine will help but you should not be knocing just because...

Detonation is more likely a sign that there is an EMS problem/hichup rather than Octaine.




Heat
Compression
A/F

 

I did plan on getting a wideband, and making the custom 2 guage cluster right by all the gauges to run duel interceptors.

 

That is fine... But you have to back off when you see it go out of range...

 

I know this.

 

I blew a headgasket with just the GM stage 2. I traded the car in just after I found out.

 

had to be a fluke. that is not the norm at all. I, for one, have had no issues with GMS2 and I have been pretty hard on it. about 20 extreme burn outs on this car plus 1/4 mile passes. Also been on the street and highways going hard. I also do not see a blown head gasket thread on here. I have only heard of one other person with a headgasket problem. I know 10 other SS owners as well. One is trying to pop his motor. He dynoed 283HP with about 240TQ and still has no problems.

 

You probably could have gotten that fixed under warranty.