riceburner

iTrader: (66)

just saying. idk what it is but it seems more and more that when i stomp on it, it feels like the power kind of kicks in in steps or something...


my drawing of 'not so linear' lol
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moar linear

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idk its the best i can explain it. the s/c makes almost full boost the whole way and full boost near limit, so thats fine... idfk

Bika

iTrader: (3)

If you are on the stock tune, it will feel like that due to the power enrichment being delayed to over 4000 rpm. If you have an aftermarket tune and it's doing that, then find a new tuner.

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

thats a good thought! thanks for not flaming me for a dumb q...

and that makes more sense cause i have injen+header so far but still no tune

ebristol

iTrader: (4)

V-tak yo!

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

pic feil but its a chevy not honda

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

LOL with my tuning (not promoting btw) to you know who .. I set pe enrichment to come inat 2500 enable and 40% tps along with 5lbs of boost.

Bika

iTrader: (3)

I bring my PE in at 50% throttle under 2k, and at 3 psi. Not the greatest for fuel economy, but I want as much power as soon as possible.

Intake and header will also cause the tune to be off and possibly make it run funny. I recommend getting it tuned soon, unless you have immediate plans to install more mods...

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I do it for fuel economy and good power.. its somthing I've seen give good results with .

seekNdestroy

Mine runs like an on off switch, is that tune? It feels like 1/2 throttle has as much pull as full throttle. Like if I'm goin and give it half agressively then give it the rest it does absolutely nothing else

jonathan923

iTrader: (2)

that didnt took long

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

????????? Yeah it shouldn't be like this unless Ure turboed.. if ure a sc thenn u have somthing seriously wrong.QUOTE=seekNdestroy;6140027]Mine runs like an on off switch, is that tune? It feels like 1/2 throttle has as much pull as full throttle. Like if I'm goin and give it half agressively then give it the rest it does absolutely nothing else[/QUOTE]

Leafydialupking

iTrader: (1)

I set mine to come in with boost, though I have considered earlier at higher RPMs. Of course I also run a much leaner afr in PE than most partly because of my cam specs (way milder than yours, meaning I cant run as much spark advance before knock no matter the afr)) and partly because a lot of tuners are wusses or dont know better.

seekNdestroy

[/QUOTE]

Ok I'm sc. Ill try a retune and ask my tuner if he's had others feel the same. I thought it was maybe of the 2.8 pulley, thank you for the response

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

I'm sitting here shaking my head......... And making it leaner is safer right ? Lmfao..... In order to get the safest combustion on a lsj you must have it around 10.8-11.8 this is my cutoff unless meth plays into action or a built engine. There are many things that come into play with the lsj and a lot of engines ........ Do I have land in the early 12s or mid... Yes I do but they are spraying meth or on e... (Wideband ethanol stioch) QUOTE=Leafydialupking;6140143]I set mine to come in with boost, though I have considered earlier at higher RPMs. Of course I also run a much leaner afr in PE than most partly because of my cam specs (way milder than yours, meaning I cant run as much spark advance before knock no matter the afr)) and partly because a lot of tuners are wusses or dont know better.[/QUOTE]

Leafydialupking

iTrader: (1)

No, you know leaner is not safer, though often people, most notably DSM'ers and people who are "tuners" pick an air to fuel ratio which is too rich for the application. This is often derived from numbers posted on a forum, or from the backyard mechanics though of more fuel = more power. Sure running richer may be safer (except for when you get rich knock, which is in fact a real thing) but when a leaner mixture is used more torque and more power can be achieved so long as you do not generate EGTs which are too high (and start melting things). Often times a car can be tuned in at 11:1 for and have spark set to the knock limit, then lean out almost half a point before encountering knock. I've tried the whole 10.8 afr and add timing thing, the car was soooooo slow, it felt like I was stock before adding the blower. You may argue that I take huge risks in my tune, I can take "risks" with my tune because I am confident in the quality of it, and I am complete aware of how the entire system is functioning.

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

Lol.... And Ure preaching to me because ? I know all this.. except to where you said that if the why's don't get high enough before melting.... Even if Ure can get a why of 1800000000000 and it isn't melting internal. (Which would be bad add) doesn't mean your not cracking ringlands or ruining the rings or warping somthing... When you have a lean car you can't stay in it all the time due to the lean burn....... Heat....... Now would I do this to someone s car that asks for all they can have without faring for the engine. Yes I've done it.. do I like it no.. I'm not saying Ure doing anything wrong but its somthing most tuners won't do because they like it when the cars actually stay running. Testing things out on ure own car is great but when its done with someone else's car . That's the issue... Like if one of these guys buy hptuners and have a lsj or somthing else and put a llean afr like say 12.5 without meth or e.... How long you think there engine will last...

Leafydialupking

iTrader: (1)

I didnt mean to sound preachy, and it wasnt to you. I was just trying to better explain my comment so that someone who didnt know any better wouldnt try to run a super lean tune. And yeah, 12.5 is hella lean, but if they're not knocking and their EGTs are acceptable (they wont be) then it will be fine, because they wont kill ringlands, rings, or warp something if their EGTs are acceptable. Its why EGT probes are important, and you bet your ass I'll be installing one when I go to put the built engine in. I just want to stress that you shouldn't try to push the limit unless you understand the system, though some tuners are no where near the limit and it would be nice to see them nudge up to something a tad leaner, but its to their discretion. Its the tuner who picks an afr and doesnt have a better reason than, "everyone else runs it" that you have to worry about.

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

I get your point (since its your own car) But when you tune someone elses car they have the aility to blow it. When a tuner that is truly a tuner tunes someones car they need to be clear with them on there afrs and ect. Yea if i tune someone to 12.5 or 13.0s of course i will log and make sure everything is great. But the thing about heat is it breaks things down over time. Which is why tuners are tuners. In order to do things correctly for there customers they need to make things last and at a afr of 12.5, even if the egts are only at say 1700* over a lil time the internals will break down.. (If on a lsj) no meth or e...

Leafydialupking

iTrader: (1)

Only 1700? I thought the 1600 max was considered best practice on an AL block and head street car.

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

Lol it was a (throwout number lo) 1600 is still a little far down from what i would leave it to. LNF can see up to 1700+ egts with the stock turbos on a 24lbs tune (which is why they blow quickly) The bst afr for thm is 12.5-12.85 afr. But this helps the egts go up and let it heat soak which causes speratic kr. With the lsj same deal. 1600 is just a number people see and say ahh i dont want to go past this... but in all actuality its going to happen..

DSmastery

iTrader: (5)

when i read the 2.8 i figured i would ask....is your water pump dead (intercooler pump)?


when i went to a 2.8 60s and added a heatexchanger the water pump when out so when i did pulls the iats2 would stay high afterwards causing the car to feel like stock.

so ordered the new pump and babied the car for a week(no boost) haha

smaller pulley spins faster increases heat

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

Your car will have more low end and midrange tq. Even some top end. But your cr shouldnt fel like it has a shitload of vtec lol!!

Bika

iTrader: (3)

the rumor that .88 lambda for the LNF is very misleading. It may provide better peak hp numbers, but it's not the safest afr, nor is it going to provide the most torque.

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

LOL Yeha i know which is why i said what i said. .88 lambda does make the morst power but it is not the safest approach.. You prob took my comment wrong i said the best afr was what i said but this is for power since the other guy and i were talkking about how much you can get out of somthing. I know about the rich/ lean worries. This is why i run most of my conserve guys at at least .85-.82