Methods to change lash adjusters...
Methods to change lash adjusters...
Ive decided to upgrade to the newer style lash adjusters and followers.
I swear I read on here at one time that you can change the lash adjusters and followers without removing the cams.
If so how would I go about doing this?
Or do I Have to get the cam sprocket holder and remove the cams?
I swear I read on here at one time that you can change the lash adjusters and followers without removing the cams.
If so how would I go about doing this?
Or do I Have to get the cam sprocket holder and remove the cams?
I have the new style tensioner. Its not the timing set making noise. Ive spent alot of time going everything with a fine tooth comb. Mongo gave me a good deal on some LNF lash adjusters and rockers so im going to give that a shot.
Ill buy the cam tool. They are fairly cheap.
Ill buy the cam tool. They are fairly cheap.
Its making noise in there... ive checked all the timing parts and nothing seems out of the norm, nice and tight and such, all the bolts are tight and in the right spot.....
The only place I kinda hear the noise is by the oil filter.
what do you suggest?
The only place I kinda hear the noise is by the oil filter.
what do you suggest?
^^^ I agree. Its more likely the black tensioner guide than a lifter or rocker. The LNF rockers may contact the valve spring retainer on the exhaust side, depending what you have for retainers.
Leave it alone is good advice. check the black tensioner guide bolts before you make that froggy leap.
Leave it alone is good advice. check the black tensioner guide bolts before you make that froggy leap.
^ I already did that. Bought the timing set from crate engine depot thinking it was all going to be in pieces.
Pulled it apart and everything was together and just fine. I checked the upper bolt and it was tight.
Im currently just running stock everything.
It runs just fine.
Pulled it apart and everything was together and just fine. I checked the upper bolt and it was tight.
Im currently just running stock everything.
It runs just fine.
^ I already did that. Bought the timing set from crate engine depot thinking it was all going to be in pieces.
Pulled it apart and everything was together and just fine. I checked the upper bolt and it was tight.
Im currently just running stock everything.
It runs just fine.
Pulled it apart and everything was together and just fine. I checked the upper bolt and it was tight.
Im currently just running stock everything.
It runs just fine.
I pulled the valve cover off and saw the top is not broken off, I pulled the timing cover and the bottom is still intact.
To check the upper bolt I took the cover off and put the torque wrench on it. It clicked right away and was not broken or loose. The guide did not move at all.
I listened with a screwdriver for the noise at many parts of the motor all around the timing set and it did not sound like it was coming from any part around the timing set.
Unless the LNF timing tensioner I got is no good.
Since this is actually on a cav with a 2.2 the lifters I have read is a common thing to go bad.
To check the upper bolt I took the cover off and put the torque wrench on it. It clicked right away and was not broken or loose. The guide did not move at all.
I listened with a screwdriver for the noise at many parts of the motor all around the timing set and it did not sound like it was coming from any part around the timing set.
Unless the LNF timing tensioner I got is no good.
Since this is actually on a cav with a 2.2 the lifters I have read is a common thing to go bad.
I noticed when I took my timing stuff apart that the accessory chain does have a fair bit of slack in it. I checked my other motor and it was the same way. Is this normal?
I assumed from the design of the tensioner that it is simply oil driven and uses the racheting mechanism to hold its place.
I assumed from the design of the tensioner that it is simply oil driven and uses the racheting mechanism to hold its place.
I noticed when I took my timing stuff apart that the accessory chain does have a fair bit of slack in it. I checked my other motor and it was the same way. Is this normal?
I assumed from the design of the tensioner that it is simply oil driven and uses the racheting mechanism to hold its place.
I assumed from the design of the tensioner that it is simply oil driven and uses the racheting mechanism to hold its place.
Ive got a few cam and crank bolts on order so I can do just that. Its driving me nuts and its gotten worse.
I may grab a new exhaust manifold gasket and change that, as well as new springs for my Pacesetter ball socket. Dont think its that but it helps eliminate stuff.
I just cant pinpoint where its coming from . Even with a screwdriver on the timing cover I didnt hear the tick there. The only place was by the oil filter.
This thread has derailed a bit, but I have ordered the cam holder tool and a good set of lifters from Mongo off a LNF.
Worse case something fails. Id rather it not though since its my DD. New motor being built this winter.
I may grab a new exhaust manifold gasket and change that, as well as new springs for my Pacesetter ball socket. Dont think its that but it helps eliminate stuff.
I just cant pinpoint where its coming from . Even with a screwdriver on the timing cover I didnt hear the tick there. The only place was by the oil filter.
This thread has derailed a bit, but I have ordered the cam holder tool and a good set of lifters from Mongo off a LNF.
Worse case something fails. Id rather it not though since its my DD. New motor being built this winter.
After playing with the engine revs a bit today I noticed a pattern.
It seems to tick at 1500 rpm with little engine load, but goes away if I raise or lower the rpms....
It seems to be very consistent with 1500 rpm.
Any thoughts?
It seems to tick at 1500 rpm with little engine load, but goes away if I raise or lower the rpms....
It seems to be very consistent with 1500 rpm.
Any thoughts?


