my engine is driving me crazy. all it does is move back and forth and makes my ride feel horrible....

so i know you can get the

torque damper 149 or so
tranny mount 149 rear and 149 front
engine mount 199
or poly mounts.

any other things i can do and what is the best bang for buck?

i dont race too often so im not worried about breaking things i just dont wanna fell my car bucking when im at a low rpm or when i let off the gas or when i not on the gas or breaks it just starts to get annoying

 

trans mounts, get a friend that has a press and get it done. cheapest easiest solution

 

Best bang for your buck, is forget ingalls or whatever it is, go directly to TurboTech Racing and get their engine mount, then slap in the poly engine mounts (all trans mounts, etc) and you will have 0 engine movement and 0 wheelhop, you will laugh, you will cry, you will drive it like you stole it.

 

get motor and tranny mounts you will not regret it

 

ok so get the poly mounts for engine and front and rear tranny. thats it just three pieces?
i wanna make sure i get it all right the first time. who has the bast deals on them?

 

yeah get the solid motor mounts and poly tran bushings from turbo tech racing i just got them great product

 

Get into contact with Powell Motorsports, they have a revised mount steup that rotates the engine to reduce wheelhop because of the cv shaft geometry. Check it out. It kicks the poly mounts ass!

 

Agreed for a few dollars more than the Ingalls you get a mount that works... Turbo Tech Racing's solid upper mount is rated #1 on polls.

 

One more thing, with the Powell ones you won't have as much vibrations as poly. I had the poly ones fro TTR before. It's the correct way to resolve wheel hop.

 

You realize this is all driver error and actually has nothing to do with torque dampers, right?

 

HAhahah OK , thats why my ingalls helps a ton when it's on . When i take it off the combination of the mounts , gear lash, and drive by wire throttle makes it almost impossible to transition on and off throttle in 1st or 2nd without a little lurch.

In my car it is either at idle 800-850 rmp or 1500 rpm , i can't hold any RPM in between . I need some others to try this , i cannot hold the rpm's at anything lower than 1500. The pedal has a dead spot from idle to 1500 and nothing in between.

 

Sigh... Try leaving it in first gear at low speed and let off the gas - that's what he's referring to.

He's complaining about the fuel cutoff, which is what happens when you drive it badly. It has absolutely nothing to do with transmission/engine mounts.

 

ok so all 32 of my other vehicles didnt do this but all of a sudden i forgot how to drive.... ive gotta run it by the wife but i should be getting some new parts soon

 

i know what you're talking aboiut, sometimes, no matter how much throttle control you have, the engine likes to buck, especially in first. the tranny and motor mount should help tremendously, i have them, just haven't installed them. you just missed out on a killer GB from TTR

 

...32 vehicles and you don't know what the surge is caused by? Riiiiiiiiiight.

The Cobalt / Redline is a hell of a lot more touchy than most other cars as far as throttle response and fuel cutoff. I have solid mounts - it doesn't help what you're describing.

 

I know what dfco is .... it's not that. It's a combo of what i stated above , this has been discussed many times. Sigh..... driving it BADLY? ...whatever.

 

when did i say i didnt know what it was caused by. i knew what it was what causes it and what fixes it i was looking for the most cost effective and most effective way to stop it. i agree it is a bit touchy but it shouldnt be as bad as it is.

 

I have solid mounts, and if I hit DFCO it still bucks like crazy. I'm just warning you, transmission/motor mounts will NOT help.

Just ease off the throttle slower - that will make a world of difference, and you save yourself the money of buying mounts that won't help. (mounts are awesome, but they won't help what you're complaining about)

 

so for all the people saying it works and helps your right and all of them are wrong

 

What you were describing sounds like DFCO. I'm guessing they thought you meant engine lurch. Big difference.

 

ok, so...what is this we are talking about?? because i can put mine in 1st gear and let it idle through a parking lot...but you better have a neck brace cuz it jerk alot....

I also get jerking when letting off of throttle and getting back on.(with knock retard) ..unless I ease very slightly into it.

what is the issue here? is it mounts? im getting sick of it...

 

ditch the td, get the mounts. Here's a few pointers based on what you said. If you engine is bucking at low speed, you're in too high of a gear at too low or rpms. Let off the gas a little more gradualy, and you won't get that buck. Same thing getting on the throttle, eas into it.

 

this thread is more then a year old

 

Haha, for reals.

Okay, since people didn't seem to get it before, here's what's happening;

Your engine is trying to hit a target 'in gear' idling speed (I think it's around 1200 RPM), however, instead of being able to smoothly keep the motor idling around 1200, the motor will let off until it's below the target, then give it a bit of juice, then notice it's above the target RPM, and suddenly let off, then it'll notice it's too low, and repeat. Since our first gear is really ******* short, it will slam you back and forth.

DFCO was the wrong term for it, but it's not the motor moving at all - that's something entirely different - this is your whole car jerking back and forth because the car is VERY sudden when giving it gas.

The only way to fix it is by applying a little bit of gas to keep your car moving above that target RPM. D4u2s0t is also right, in that being a bit easier on the pedal will help the car not jerk while driving normally. If you're stabbing on the gas pedal the car WILL throw you around.

 

gay. just gay. cuz it didnt do that 133,000 miles ago.... :P