I recently purchased a 2006 Cobalt SS S/C. I love the car. In all honesty I've owned 3 mustangs. I dont feel like I accelerate as quickly or top speed is as nice. But, man I've never had more fun driving a car everyday. As with my previous pony's I want to modify the car. Unfortunatly the previous owner has done some "unknown" modifications.

Things I "think" have been done:

New air intake (ram or CAI unknown)
Stage 1/2 Kit. (pully is pretty loud)
When purchsed was told it was "tuned"...we all know that has 1,000,000 meanings.

Things I know have been done. (by me or evident)

new tires
new fuel pump
new injectors
new wiring harness
exaust (GM preformance)
3 pillar gauge with 2/3 3 pods working. Wideband and Boost work. Interceptor doesnt.
- The boost and interceptor will be replaced by Nexus line gauges
new right hub
a much needed full detail.
oil change

I would like to make this a growing project but in all honesty my knowledge on the car and it's capabilities are slim to none. If someone could reply with sticky threads so I can do research and learn more about the car and supporting mods. I would like to get the car up to 280hp. If I can hit 300 that would be awsome.

PS: if I posted thread in wrong place please feel free to move it. Sorry

 

Pics of engine bay please .

Don't get rid of the interceptor, see if you can get it working. Is it plugged into the OBD? It also needs external power to run and the jumper pulled on the back.

Once again if you get pics we'll know right away, but if it's a plastic intake tube it's either the airbox mod or an AEM intake and if it's a metal tube we'd need pics. The intake makes the SC really loud.

It will say what size pulley is on it if it's changed, if it's a press on pulley it's stock. Blue bolts (4) are Gm Stage 2/3 and 5 bolt's are aftermarket.

Injectors go as following, green are stock and if you get pics we can tell if you have GM Stage 2 ones or 60's.

You can hit 280 on pump gas/m62/meth (usually need meth). 300 on E85, and if you were to swap to turbo it gets endless.

Joel

P.S. Welcome to the site!

 

^hit the nail on the head. Get us pics and we can get you answers...

 

Interceptor is bulky. Buddy of mine doesnt know why it isnt working.

Currently at work about to get off shift. I can get pictures up tomorrow

Thanks for the pully mention. Prevoiuse forced indution have been w/ prochargers. Not eaton

I run premium in the car currently seems to run leaner when I get into the higher RPM's. I don't mind filling it up either, considering my last 3 cars took preimium and cost almost twice as much.

What kind of modifications would I be looking at to make 280? I don't like turbo's even though I know the power gains go as far as you internals/transmission will allow. I chose the S/C for the whine. Cintrificle ( I think I spelled that right) super charger is as close to a turbocharger I got.

 

Let me know if you want to get rid of the interceptor.

I would def recommend you get a WB hooked up asap. W/ an aftermarket tune, you have no idea how aggressive it is. At the very least pull the plugs and make sure they aren't too white or black. If you have self control, keep your foot out of it till you can get a better idea on what it's doing. I would also recommend having it retuned by someone reputable...

 

I probbably will get rid of the interceptor. I never have used one. I looked up online the basic's just seems like a multi-gauge.

I took it out on the freeway and eased into is slowly. Built up from there with faster accelerations. I dont hear pings/knocks/ any thing that sounds bad. But, yes I treating the car as my project with pretty much as only the exaust has been upgraded at this point. Slowly saving. January is when I will begin the project. I will have 2500$ set aside for this first part of this endeavor.

I assume WB = Wideband F/A gauge. there is one. It's 14-15 at idle, 5k+ running 10-11

 

Sorry, don't know how I missed the WB thing. Sounds like your running pretty fat in PE, I'm wondering if the tuner is trying to cram timing in up top. Ideal on that motor (LSJ) is around 11.4-11.8, that's where most are happy...

 

Does it do anything at all or just blank? It's more than just a multi gauge, watching your IAT's and KR are extremely important on these engines.

Cool, we'll be able to tell you more then.

Good to hear, keep running premium. They don't like going into boost on 87 haha.

You'd be looking at intake, full exhaust (Long tube header, 2.5" Catback), Meth, 2.6 or 2.7" Pulley, 60lb injectors, maybe port the SC and an awesome tune. Also a procharger is a centrifugal superchager.

Joel

 

any thing past 300 look at going turbo. anything past 350 best start doing engine internals.

im in the process of building mine. 4 years ago i leaned out on my #4 because of a faulty injector that i had boughten used(first mistake).

im now buying the full ZZP turbo kit and going with diamond pistons on a 9.5:1 ratio(stock ratio)

oh and PS canadian bragging here but i own 2 SS S/C sunburst orange cobalts *flex* lol

 

280-300 is my goal. I know I can' expect stupid high numbers due to the eaton's pully capacity and heat problems. I would like to keep the engine's internals as stock as possible along with the transmission. (expect prolly a flywheel and a stronger clutch). Can I achieve the power w/o long tubes? Could I go mid and still make 280's? Can you intercool a S/C?

About the interceptor gauge. It's blank nothing shows up when I start the car. It might be due to lack of power. I will have pictures of the Engine bay up tommrow.

 

S/C's have a Heat Exchanger same concept really as an I/C but they work differently. Only real gain of going Mid tube over LT is top end power, the LT keeps your low and mid, while making good high rpm power.

The gauge just seems from what you said no power, pop the a-pillar and check it out.

Oh got sidetracked here, you can make 280's with a M/T but I'm a fan of LT's

 

You can make 280 w/o a LT. If you go w/ high end stuff. Ditch the stock heat exchanger (between a/c and radiator) for a Griffin H/E and get a single pass intake manifold w/ an overflow tank (option b). That will give you you the best IAT regulation possible. From there you'll just need a really good tune, bigger injectors, intake, exhaust, pulley down, etc...

I made 260/230 on a mustang dyno no a 2.79" pulley w/ essentially the stock cooling system and high IAT2's...

 

nothing you can really do for the trans. unless you wanna put a LSD or a 6spd conversion.

Our cars coime from factory with a Air to water intercooler. that bulky sob under our m62's is A. the intake B liquide cooled as well.

Clutch i would recomend upgrading. our stock ones are horrible.

 

I ran the stock clutch hard for 30K on high power and it was in great condition when I pulled it. No need to replace at 300whp and less...

 

I'm at 265whp and my clutch gets soft now and again. maybe that's another hit or miss like the stock trans holding good power for some and breaking brand new day 1 for others.

 

It's very possible. Many factors can effect quality and life-span of a clutch. My recommendation is always to wait to replace a clutch until it begins to give you issues or you have to pull things apart anyways...

 

false

 

false dot com

truth dot com

 

arnt are internals at best rated in safe standards 350. and everything ive heard we cant get past 300 with a S/C

 

I got pictures now where and how do I add them?

 

You can upload them through the gallery link up top or upload them to somewhere like photobucket and link them...

 

have to use photo bucket. They are too large for the gallery...wish I had 4mb not 2mb...gimmie a min

 

CobaltSS-1.jpg picture by duffman111 - Photobucket

CobaltSS-1.jpg picture by duffman111 - Photobucket

see if these work...

 

Here is direct link. This might work. If you need more or want specific pictures tell me!

http://s1198.photobucket.com/albums/...111/?start=all

 

Well that explains the rich PE. You have GMS2 installed in the car. Intake is stock, Ingall's TD seems to be the only other mod I can see on the top end...