Well after that last thread got all sorts of f/d up... I"d like to start a new one to keep tabs on how this is doin on the ss/sc... as much as could get outta the last one was that so far so good... I'd like to keep this as an update thread is possible... I"ll be running this setup myself as soon as I can get my hands on it.... Keep up the good work Rob.

 

rob what are ur opinions on the boost based setup...just as good as the maf or what?

 

thanks for opening a new thread. now since the last one was locked:

rob, what kind of temps were you seeing before the wi and what are they now? i know you said about 10 degrees difference, but is that from iat1, or 10 degrees fluctuating from runs?

 

I think he was talking about a 10 degree rise in IAT2 temps which is AWESOME!!!! No need for any type of extra heat exchangers or ice boxes. Keep up the good work ROB and let us know how this works. I might be doing this pretty soon.

 

I think I may save for the progressive controller of it that much better than a boost switch based system.

 

what about methanol injection? would it be an advantage rig up a nitrous system fuel solinoid and induct methanol? (alot of people use windshield washer fluid)

 

He said that he is using methanol injection. It is a water/methanol mix. No need for rigging anything up. The system is made to handle water/meth.

 

Yeah he is running -20 washer fluid, ~65/35 water to meth I believe. SRT-4 UK, do you use a boost switch or progressive controller with your setup?

 

I run a cooling mist progressive controller. The progressive controller is much easier to install (I have done both and that boost switch one is a pain with all the wiring) and lets you fine tune how much gets in that way you don't bog the engine. I opted for the controller because the setup I am installing is a direct port system and I wanted the control. I will be spraying 4 nozzles into my intake manifold once my new manifold gets in. Here is also a good refrence for people planning on running washer fluid.
http://www.enginerunup.com/can-i-use...d-/info_22.php

**Edit** another plus for a progressive controller is the ability to turn it off. You can make it so it starts to pump when you hit 30 psi which will not happen causing the pump to never turn on. It is good when going on a trip or other times that you don't need the extra performance.

 

i run methanol injection on my car (not a cobalt though) and yeah, it's worth it. i picked up 50RWHP and about 23RWTQ from the snow performance kit. these kits are no joke. i run mine with the cheap blue wiper fluid too. probably could have gotten some extra ponies, but i'd rather use the cheap stuff that i can get from any grocery store or gas station as needed. i also went a whole month before having to refill the resevoir, even then it wasn't completely empty.

 

Hey i am currently running a water/meth setup on my cobalt. I have a progressive controller and right now its set up based on boost. I would like to set it up based on the MAF 0-5V input. Does anyone know what wire is the 0-5V input on our MAF??? I also need to know what wire is the ground wire for the MAF. The reason that i am doing this is because our cars will hit 15psi at 3000rpm or 7000rpm. This means that how it is currently set up i am spraying the same amount at all rpm's where i am at about full boost. I would like so set it up off tha MAF cause then the spray will be progressive as i go through the rpm range.

 

snow performance makes a boost cooler stage 2 MAF setup. should have bought that.

 

It is better to have it based off of boost. The higher you boost, the higher the temps get. Why make it less effective just to make it more progressive?

 

Well here is the problem. If i am cruzing at about 3000rpm and floor it i will make about 15psi. If i am going at 6000rpm and floor it i will still make about 15psi. so I am injecting the same amount of water/meth at 3000rpm and 6000rpm. If i tune it so that i have the correct amount of water injecting at 6000rpm it will be too much at 3000rpm and make the car bog a bit. On the other hand if i have the correct amount at 3000rpm then when i am at 6000 rpm i wont have enough water/meth injecting and the blower starts to get hot. i want to make the injection based off the MAF Because i am at ~15PSI through the whole rpm range. I can put in a boost switch also so that it will not inject under ~5PSI.

 

You aren't supposed to tune to have the correct amount of water/meth at 6000 rpm's. You tune to keep a desired a/f ratio. The reason the car will bog down is because you are running to rich. Change the injection curve on the progressive controller, or make the max setting higher so you don't run th nozzle to it's max.

 

Good info. SRT4 UK, did your kit just tap into a boost/vaccuum line? I am guessing the MAF progressive controller hooks right inline with the MAF sensor.

And on a sidenote, I plan to run the -20 washer fluid too. Right now Home Depot has it for 70 cents a gallon!

 

Mine is tapped into a boost/vacuum line that I use for my boost gauge (I have an digital/mechanical gauge in my car instead of a electrical/analog gauge like the std cobalt gauge). I am not surea bout the MAF setup. Also, If you want a higher concentration, you can get the windshield washer fluid concentrate or HEET in the yellow bottles. Those are 99% (Check the MSDS to be sure about the diffrent brands of washer fluid). Most setups also allow you to run denaturated alcohol which can be picked up at a paint store for fairly cheap.

 

Queation #1, Boost vs MAFF

I have used both and for SC cars, MAFF based is the only way to go! We get instant boost at low RPM's and it stays fairly even through the rpm's so a boost based one is a bitch to tune. Maff based works so much better it is sickning! I have made only one adjustment so far and i get seamless wi with no bogs and nothing but great power. With the boost based system, it was full on which caused a bog, tune the bog out and then i had KR. Pain in the ****.


Question#2, MAFF Signal

You need a module to get the HZ signal from the stock maff,(yellow wire) to convert it to a 0-5v signal output. The Snowperformance system is great in this regard.

Question#3, Fluid

The whole reason to go with a WI set-up is to be able to run a "race tune" set-up w/o having to use race gas. That being said, if you were to run straight methanol, you have 2 factors playing in the 'BIG' picture. Cost per gallon of use brings total price up to almost the same as race gas, extremely corrosive and flammable.
Thats why i use -20 washer fluid or -30 whichever you have. It is a good mix which allows water to cool and methanol for ocrane boost. Very cheap per gallon of gas vs washer fluid used.

Make sense??

1) Use a MAFF based progressive controller
2) Use a Reputable system and NOT A HOMEMADE system!!!!!!!!!!! DON'T cut corners here when your motor's life depends on it!
3) Use -20 washer fluid

4) Don't fuc# up another one of my threads!

 

alot of goo dinfo but you didn't answer my temperature questions above

 

Didn't see this posted in the other thread, but are you spraying before or after the S/C

 

he's spraying before... that was one post he got up on the last thread

 

I was talking about the rise of IAT2 from the start to finish of the WOT run.

 

jesus christ man that's good hell you seen my video today of it going up from 105 to 154 in a third gear pull WOT

 

WOW

 

I like 4 the best . I guess I am saving for the snow GM maf kit. The module is included with this correct?

Did you use water injection with race gas on the Impala and are you planning on doing it with the Cobalt? I understand W/I really helps with pump gas tuning but I wonder if it is possible to use this effectively with race gas too.