Option B + Dual Pass Question
Option B + Dual Pass Question
I have the pump out going to the center of the dual pass, i have the pump in going to the heat exchanger, and I have the other end of the heat exchanger going to the dual pass 2 outside orifices, with a t from that line going to the reservoir. Is that ok?
I plumbed the hoses per the dual pass instructions and I like it that way better. The biggest reason is that if you have your hoses turned properly your option B reservoir will fill up with foamy bubbles from the bleed out line. Not a lot but you will have a thin layer on top of your coolant. So visually at least you know that's working.
crap this sounds hard as hell. i just bought one off a member and i have no instructions. i only got the dual pass without option b. any body have any instructions for just the dual pass i searched but did not find one. i am lookint to install it tomorrow
do yourself a favor and get the dual pass option b bottle for best results italianjoe1 can help you.
the hardest part of the install is popping out the laminova tubes and switching them. Not that it is that hard, but its tricky. The inlet manifold(Laminova integrated into this) is held by bolts and studs, which you can see and a tricky bolt underneath that you cannot (15 mm head on bolt) There is an external torx socket that can undo and remove the two inlet manifold studs (use blue locktite when replacing them) thus you can release the inlet manifold assembly up and out without too much drama, then once you have the manifold out you can swap out the laminova cores (tubes) and install your new face plate.
When removing the supercharger, you need to relax the tensioner to remove the belt (15 mm open end to push back and down on tensioner) pop belt off. Remember on re install to line up belt in all the grooves if it is off one groove on any pulley the belt will squeak.
Before removing the supercharger,remove the connector on the throttle body (underneath the s/c) make sure you pop off the grey forked lock for the connector, use a small screw driver to depress the center lock and then withdraw the connector carefully dont pull on the wires pull on the connector. Fiddly PITA job.
The instructions for the dual pass should have the torque specs for the inlet manifold (22 ft lbs) and the tightening sequence, and the s/c (use a 6 mm allen key, get the 6 inch long extended 3/8 drive allen otherwise using a short allen key, the top left bolt will require you to remove the fuel rail and you dont want the extra work; using a normal non 3/8 drive allen key will not permit you to torque the bolt afterwards. Work should be done with motor cold (doesnt have to be stone cold) and all bolts should be torqued to spec.get the option b bottle!
the hardest part of the install is popping out the laminova tubes and switching them. Not that it is that hard, but its tricky. The inlet manifold(Laminova integrated into this) is held by bolts and studs, which you can see and a tricky bolt underneath that you cannot (15 mm head on bolt) There is an external torx socket that can undo and remove the two inlet manifold studs (use blue locktite when replacing them) thus you can release the inlet manifold assembly up and out without too much drama, then once you have the manifold out you can swap out the laminova cores (tubes) and install your new face plate.
When removing the supercharger, you need to relax the tensioner to remove the belt (15 mm open end to push back and down on tensioner) pop belt off. Remember on re install to line up belt in all the grooves if it is off one groove on any pulley the belt will squeak.
Before removing the supercharger,remove the connector on the throttle body (underneath the s/c) make sure you pop off the grey forked lock for the connector, use a small screw driver to depress the center lock and then withdraw the connector carefully dont pull on the wires pull on the connector. Fiddly PITA job.
The instructions for the dual pass should have the torque specs for the inlet manifold (22 ft lbs) and the tightening sequence, and the s/c (use a 6 mm allen key, get the 6 inch long extended 3/8 drive allen otherwise using a short allen key, the top left bolt will require you to remove the fuel rail and you dont want the extra work; using a normal non 3/8 drive allen key will not permit you to torque the bolt afterwards. Work should be done with motor cold (doesnt have to be stone cold) and all bolts should be torqued to spec.get the option b bottle!
do yourself a favor and get the dual pass option b bottle for best results italianjoe1 can help you.
the hardest part of the install is popping out the laminova tubes and switching them. Not that it is that hard, but its tricky. The inlet manifold(Laminova integrated into this) is held by bolts and studs, which you can see and a tricky bolt underneath that you cannot (15 mm head on bolt) There is an external torx socket that can undo and remove the two inlet manifold studs (use blue locktite when replacing them) thus you can release the inlet manifold assembly up and out without too much drama, then once you have the manifold out you can swap out the laminova cores (tubes) and install your new face plate.
When removing the supercharger, you need to relax the tensioner to remove the belt (15 mm open end to push back and down on tensioner) pop belt off. Remember on re install to line up belt in all the grooves if it is off one groove on any pulley the belt will squeak.
Before removing the supercharger,remove the connector on the throttle body (underneath the s/c) make sure you pop off the grey forked lock for the connector, use a small screw driver to depress the center lock and then withdraw the connector carefully dont pull on the wires pull on the connector. Fiddly PITA job.
The instructions for the dual pass should have the torque specs for the inlet manifold (22 ft lbs) and the tightening sequence, and the s/c (use a 6 mm allen key, get the 6 inch long extended 3/8 drive allen otherwise using a short allen key, the top left bolt will require you to remove the fuel rail and you dont want the extra work; using a normal non 3/8 drive allen key will not permit you to torque the bolt afterwards. Work should be done with motor cold (doesnt have to be stone cold) and all bolts should be torqued to spec.get the option b bottle!
the hardest part of the install is popping out the laminova tubes and switching them. Not that it is that hard, but its tricky. The inlet manifold(Laminova integrated into this) is held by bolts and studs, which you can see and a tricky bolt underneath that you cannot (15 mm head on bolt) There is an external torx socket that can undo and remove the two inlet manifold studs (use blue locktite when replacing them) thus you can release the inlet manifold assembly up and out without too much drama, then once you have the manifold out you can swap out the laminova cores (tubes) and install your new face plate.
When removing the supercharger, you need to relax the tensioner to remove the belt (15 mm open end to push back and down on tensioner) pop belt off. Remember on re install to line up belt in all the grooves if it is off one groove on any pulley the belt will squeak.
Before removing the supercharger,remove the connector on the throttle body (underneath the s/c) make sure you pop off the grey forked lock for the connector, use a small screw driver to depress the center lock and then withdraw the connector carefully dont pull on the wires pull on the connector. Fiddly PITA job.
The instructions for the dual pass should have the torque specs for the inlet manifold (22 ft lbs) and the tightening sequence, and the s/c (use a 6 mm allen key, get the 6 inch long extended 3/8 drive allen otherwise using a short allen key, the top left bolt will require you to remove the fuel rail and you dont want the extra work; using a normal non 3/8 drive allen key will not permit you to torque the bolt afterwards. Work should be done with motor cold (doesnt have to be stone cold) and all bolts should be torqued to spec.get the option b bottle!
That pretty much covers it, if any other questions, lemme know.
saturn ion coolant bottle bracket to hold it, some hose, y and t fittings, 1/8 pipe 1.4 nipple adaptor, a .040 restrictor, its all in the CED option B kit along with instructions thats your best bet. for the install some oem style clamp pliers, some dexcool, and a first aid kit for the clamps that are epoxied to the ic pump hoses and a bitch to remove. best bet? get someone else to install it lol maybe there is a speedshop in nm that can do it? good luck option B is the right thing to do
saturn ion coolant bottle bracket to hold it, some hose, y and t fittings, 1/8 pipe 1.4 nipple adaptor, a .040 restrictor, its all in the CED option B kit along with instructions thats your best bet. for the install some oem style clamp pliers, some dexcool, and a first aid kit for the clamps that are epoxied to the ic pump hoses and a bitch to remove. best bet? get someone else to install it lol maybe there is a speedshop in nm that can do it? good luck option B is the right thing to do
I did one this morning without getting too cut up. I'm getting better at it I guess.
wouldnt the hatrickstu cooling mod be the same as adding option b? sounds simpler to me,lol. Also, how hard is it to turn the normal endplate into a dual-pass endplate? Could it be done yourself or done be someone who is good at fabrication and/or welding? I dont have paypal or a credit card and like getting **** done local, that way theres no wait to order ****.



