Just seeing if anyone has the pics of the bypass valve fix for the Cobalt SS/SC. I want too know were too plug which line. COlin

 

It would be nice if someone could repost the ones ive seen before.

What is the purpose of this? I have intake and exaust and when I get up to redline I dont see my boost drop, so how does this work?

 

once you hit 12.5 PSI it lets any extra you'de make "Blow Off" when you bypass it the extra PSI sill go into the mix thats what i remember

 

Does it harm the engine? OR not? I tried it in my 05 Cobalt SS/SC and it definitly makes a difference you can feel it in the top end. Any info would help thanx....

 

hasnt done anything to mine, and it does help a little. i hear it helps even more with a pulley, ill let yall know once i put my pulley on. i dont have my car at the moment so i cant post pics of the BV mod, but i will as soon as i get it back.

 

Well funny I see this thread because I was bored today and did a boost by pass. There are several ways to do it. I find the method I am using now to be the best. I will post pictures monday or tuesday, my card reader is at work. Just to sum up my day real quick I fixed the problem with the Cynic torque brace so there is no more vibration or rubbing, I made my own CAI and it works just like the K&N, and I changed the way I do my boost by pass.... So here goes. Before I just removed the tube from the solenoid to the actuator and capped the nipple. It worked ok but I felt there was a better way. So today I decided to go to the source. I followed the hose from the back of the actuator to the manifold. I pulled that hose off the manifold and cut a 2" piece off of it. I then placed a small screw in the hose and place it back on the manifold. So now the manifold is capped. I left the hose that was cut where it was it is safe there. I then disconnected the power to the actuator. Works great.

 

^^^Why wouldn't you just disconnect the power to the actuator and be done with it? Is there a purpose in capping th hose too? I am going to do this mod but I want to fully understand it before I do it.

 

Well that hose creates a vacuum. So you want to plug it so nothing gets sucked in there.

 

But why can't you leave it hooked up to the bypass valve? If you disconnect the power to the bypass valve it isn't going to open correct? Therefore you shouldn't need to unhook the vacuum line at all.

 

if you still get air coming into the manifold you will still bleed.

 

let me ask this.

My brother did the Boost Bypass mod the other day. I dont know if he did it right, but when we raced from a 40 roll I ate him alive. From 40-100 I could pull maybe 4-5 cars. When he put everything back to normal we pretty much ran neck and neck. Did he do it wrong, or is he losing horsepower via the boost bypass mod?

 

im going to put a manual boost controler valve inline with the vacuum line, then i could control that from inside the car

plus as a mechanic i cant justify just unpluging a hose for more power...not pro moves at all

 

Well the method that I am using was told to me by an GMP engineer that helped design the motor for these cars. Sooooo...... as for losing HP which way did he do it ? Putting a boost controller inline is definately a good idea but you dont have to do it. I can tell you what you will lose with the BPV mod MPG 's because you will be boosting faster and higher through all rpms soooo down goes the gas mileage but if you are adding power you should expect that.

 

Chris, Post how you did your MOD so we can see why you lost power.

 

we will take pics tonight

 

You may have plugged the wrong hose..It is the lower hose on the valve...

 

very simple mod dyno tested if you run a smaller pulley you will make more power with this. I have had it done for around 1 year now with no cels or any problems. Stick anything you wish to plug the line, make sure it dosnt leak though.

 

Detailed instrcutions of how to do the BPV mod.

Step 1. Locate the solenoid



Step 2. Locate the actuator



Step 3 Locate the vac hose from the actuator to the manifold



Step 4 disconnect actuator Power Supply



Step 5 remove the vac hose from the manifold, this will expose a skinny silver tube. Take that hose cut 2 inches off of it. With the cut of piece in hand stick a screw or whatever inside the top of it and slide it back over the manifold inlet. Then tuck the hose under the cover and voila you are done






Hope this helps

 

And why can't you just do it clown hairs way? Theres no cutting of anything and its the same results.

 

You can. It is the same thing just no cut. The cutting is no big deal though your tube is 5 inches too long so if you cut 2 inches off of it you still have 3 inches more than you need.

 

My brother did this and we raced no difference, does the power plug portion have to be done? he did the hose part but left the blue plug in.

 

How many miles are on your car? That engine bay is really dirty! I have 11,337mi on mine and the engine bay still looks the same since I drove it off of the showroom...

Either way works...

 

To me you notice the most difference with a smaller pulley. This mod is to allow for more than 12.5 lbs of boost so to me I never seen any reason to do it with a stock pulley. People do say though that it still works. As for my engine bay my best friend lives on a dirt road and I am over there quite often. I have 7500 mi on my car. I also work at a place that is next door to a building that is being erected so the amount of dirt on our cars is ridiculous after work.

 

what else is going across your motor?

 

looks like the boost gauge line