I have a 05 SS and I threw in some custom grind cams from comp. since it turns over for ever before it starts and throws check engine light. light is for cam position sensor and cam to crank correlation. I changed the cam sensor reset it about 50 times now also tore it down and re-timed it from scratch just to make sure it didn't jump a tooth. I am lost as to what to do to resolve this issue. any info help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. THANKS

 

did you get them through zzp if not the hex in the cam is probably off and you will need adjustable cam gears and degree the cams in

 

with my comp cams (from zzp) fresh installed it started up right away even w the cam sensor disconnected, and the code removed via HPT. could be that hex key, I would imagine.

 

zzp ensures that the hex is installed and timed properly for problem free operation

hawylins why did you disable the cps codes

 

bump for more great info.

 

If it came from Comp then the hex is a half a flat off. They ground my set using an intake blank for the exhaust which makes it off when it's rotated over to the other side.

It'll run if you time the sensor one hex off. I can't remember which way but one way it won't fire and the other will/may crank a little longer but will run without a code. It's a **** to relocate.

Also the sensor tends to want to rotate to the heavy side down while you are trying to stab in so you have to get it in before that.

 

My comp cams are the same way. Rotate it to where you car starts right up on the first crank and call it a day. How is you idle? Who is tuning the cams?

 

so if i buy my comp cams from zzp i'm not going to run into any issues like the OP.
in other words, it's going to be an easy installation and tune and and call it a day? thanks.

 

you shouldent have to disable anything with the zzp cams with theirs the hex is timed properly and ground on the optimum degrees for drop in and tune

 

well simple reason, it had nothing to do with the cams but when I was first starting the engine after a rebuild (with these new cams), it wouldn't start. desperate measures called for taking the code out (which I eventually returned back into the database) and trying to start, because it wouldn't for some reason before. thought it could have been a misaligned hex. turned out to be an injector problem! my car starts first crank now and like said it's a bi*ch trying to get that hex aligned when it wants to rotate on you lol.

 

good to know for its eithers cams or wreck the blower with a 2.5 pulley.

 

you wouldent wreck the blower 0n a 2.5 but cams would be a better choice

 

it was a jk lol trust me if I hade the time it allready be on there.

 

i know what a 2.6 feels like gobs of torque but a tvs feels a ton better

 

so when you loose torque with cams could you simply drop some pulley sizes? I guess it's a trade off if the cams shift your power band up and that small a pulley may be overspinning that high but make up for the lost torque down low.

 

yea but u can make some of it back but u get alot more power up top with the cams