Hey fellow Cobalt owners!

First off I would like to say Hey to everyone, I am a new member on this forum as this is my first post. I have recently bought a 06 Black SS/Sc and I have been researching it as much as possible. This is going to be my project car and I hope to build it to be one of the fastest and also the most reliable car in this community.

I know this is not going to be an easy job but I plan on taking my time to make sure everyhting is done right. I myself am not the most talented technician but I do know more than you average car junky.

I want to see how much these Eaton M62 can handle on our cars. I read some where they can handle 400hp. (correct me if im wrong). Well 400 or what ever hp number it might be is the number im after.

I know the stock internals are not as strong as some of us wish and heard they can only handle, if your lucky, around 300whp. My real question I came here to ask is different brand internals. Pistons, Valves, Valve Springs, Crankshaft, NBS, Cams, Rockers, bearings?? ,What specific internals are breaking and are certain brands having more problems over others?

With the stock blower being pushed to its limits it will be producing alot of heat and might (probably) keep me far from the 400hp. But lets see. With alot of cooling mods, correct internals, and the proper tune, Ill see how far this car can be pushed with the stock blower.

As i start the build I want to put parts in as they break. (hopefully nothing too bad happens ) What are the normal and continous pars you all keep hearing about breaking and at about what power? This way if I can record breakage at certain powers levels I can
give everyone else a better idea how long they have till there parts break.

Any help or things I might have missed in this post will be nice. Ill keep it updated. Thanks

 

Welcome to the site. You will find a ton of useful information on here. Good luck with your build

 

yea with the m62 i think it max out at 350 but its along road to hoe to get to 300whp some of us have spent a chunk of change and are not even at 300...and i will not use nitrous..i dont wanna have to cheat to get my hp

 

Welcome. there are some problems specifically with the fuel system. you might want to convert to a return line system, like some of our SRT-4 friends, if you are looking to run 300+ whp.

 

Not quite sure what that is? What does a return line do?


ok so 300whp huh? Thats still good. I want to completly max out my car while still being reliable.

 

Welcome to the site! You'll definalty need to change the headgasket and head studs as that seems to be go on us around the 300 mark and/or the 20psi mark. As far as the pistons and rods, I myself am not too sure, but I haven't heard of many situations where changes have had to be made as of yet. Best of luck with the build and you'll find all the info you need on this site!

 

thanks alot man, gasket and studs it is

 

First thing I think you should do Is take the head off and upgrade your valve train (Ferrea), raplace the head gasket and head studs ( arp studs , cometec head gasket), pistons- go with diamond racing from Intense. Not very many people tried this yet but try higher compression so u can run less boost, for less heat and power loss from the blower. Get the gmpp balance shafts also so u will be able to handle higher revs. U will want to rev at atleast 7500 to keep you in your power band. Im pretty sure u wont have to worry about replacing ur Rods or crank. Then you can start with all the bolt ons and tuning.

 

i see you said lower compression pistons and that no one else has tried that. Would that even work. If it was a matter of just swtiching pistons for less heat and lower heat which gives more power.. why doesnt some one doo it. There only like 700. Get on it. lol

 

^^^ that would be different, I like it.

And a start to being the fastest most reliable with your stock blower. But in my opinion your numbers what you think the blower is capable of and what you think the internals are capable of should be switched. Most, if not everyone loosing pistons is because of a bad tune.

If your going to be smaller than a 2.7 def do head gasket and studs.

 

^^^^bump more info

 

A free bump because ima bout to get me some Wendy's

 

Im going for pretty much the same goal you are. Fastest m62 SS. I talked to Rob Archer and he told me to go with high compression pistons. I bought the Diamond 10:5:1 pistons in the group buy. I'm slowly working on getting everything around for a full motor build. Hopefully get it built this winter. Sorry I don't have much to add to your thread but just figured I would let you know your not the only one out there with this goal. Have fun a good luck.

 

if i was u get good stuff right off the bat. Pistons, Rods, Heads. Under heads if you really dont want to do too much work check out J-Body Performance for their stage 3 heads. They are expensive but definately worth it from what i think. And definatly be prepared to spend money when the supercharger swap and turboswap come out maybe even twincharge.

 

lol wtf

 

no I actually said higher compression. Many people want more boost so they go with lower compression. Yea thats great for alot of turbo applications. But when it comes to our eaton we need higher compression. then we can stay around 16-17 psi without over spinning the blower and boosting the **** out of the car, robbing us of hp from heat. People on this site go down to a 2.5 pulley with lower comp pistons and are still putting down 270-290 hp ( with a **** load of cooling mods) boosting up to 19-21 psi. Its crazy man. Spinning the blower that fast is probably robbing them of 35-45% hp.

 

sorry sorry i didnt see the higher compression. I knew with differnt compression pistons. What else would have to changed to make this work. I read something on the redlineforums and they dont seem to think its all a great a idea, but never really say why. They say there needs to be a balance between boost and compression. If it would work and I get all the details i would love to try this out

 

It should be noted that, other than the pistons, our internals ARE forged. Atleast on the LSJ.

 

OK the pistons are good to 350hp the rods are good to 450 with good A1 bolts and the crank is good to about 750or more
The m62 is capable of 450-500 with very large cams and CNC porting.

 

right it is a balance... take this for examp. high compression plus low boost = 1000 hp, low compression plus high boost = 1000 hp. now im no expert but im just saying, our little eatons dont need to be boosting 20 psi. id say do the twin screw swap from tag, then low compression. also yea cnc ported head with some cams would help with heat so u can boost more out of m62. the guy said he wants to max out the m62 so hes going to have to either stay stock compression or raise it a little. maxing out my m62 is what i want to do also