Now I know tons of people follow no break in period, but after getting a motor rebuilt I'm very cautious as to what I do with this one. I'm looking for some debate.

What do you think is better, no break in period and just beat on it from the start, or gently beating it in while going some wot but not to redline occasionally to help seat the rings, or driving slightly spirited but still not enough to warrant 'aggresive' driving.

 

if you had it built, id say 500 miles under 3k to properly seat the rings.

 

IMO, for the first 500 miles, use 1/2 throttle at most. No more than 4000 RPM. Keep your speed varried

 

Just a piston swap, not fully built. Either way, new pistons are in..

 

x2

 

Then after that you should be able to let it go.

 

gun it from the start



























































*disclaimer* not responsible for any damage that may cause!!

 

I want to get some discussion on this.

I was already set in my mind on rarely getting on it, constantly vary speed, and occasionally take it up to 4500.

Looking for what others do.

 

thats good. 4500 mite be a hair high

 

IMO, for the first 500 miles, use 1/2 throttle at most. No more than 4000 RPM. Keep your speed varried

agreed on that.

 

i go through a big break in procedure, it actualy comes from ohv hydralic flat tappet cam stuff.

initial start- get the car up to 2000rpm for 15 to 20 minutes as soon after you start it as possible. after that, let it idle for about a minute and shut it off, allow to cool completly.
drive car very lightly for 100km. after that, change engine oil and drain water from cooling system and put antifreeze in (never run antifreeze till you know the motor is sealed up).
next 900km- drive the car lightly, the biggest thing is to not drive at a steady rpm, if cruising, vary speed up and down. its good to load the motor up every so often, dont hesitate to go 3/4 throttle. this helps seat the rings, just keep the rpm down (rpm varies depending on the type of motor, id say not much above half of redline, on our cars, 4000rpm max). after that, change oil again.
next 2500km- drive it somewhat normal, you can redline it full throttle, just not for long periods of time. dont take it to the track yet, wait till you have more milage.
3500km total- change oil, can now use synthetic if you wish. its all broken in and ready to be beat on.

some other notes, when breaking a motor in, you should always use non synthetic oil, and use an engine break in additive. oil used to have zinc in it to help with wear, since the elimination of flat tappet cams in production cars they have been taking the zinc out of the oil. zinc helps with a lot more than just the cam. to add, on a boosted car, lock the wastegate or bypass valve open during the initial 1000km break in, and after that run low boost/ small pulley till 3500km.

a lot of this is for a complete motor build, with new cams, rings, ect. i know it seems like it takes a long time, in a driver what i aim to do is get the motor in the car late in winter as by the time the roads actualy clear up, the motor is broken in. it does take a while, but no use not breaking in a motor properly and risking premature wear or rings not seating

 

"So what is the proper break-in procedure for rings and how long does it take? First, there may be other concerns that should be considered when first firing-up a new engine, such as lubrication to the bearings, timing, and valve adjustments. Otherwise, the generally accepted procedure is as follows. Fill the engine with the appropriate amount of 10W30-weight, petroleum-based oil. Start the engine and let it run for about 20 minutes at low (about 2000) RPM. Drain the oil while it's hot and inspect the oil for metal particles. There should be no chunks of aluminum, brass, iron, or steel. Refill with oil (see below for type) and drive the car (after any other considerations have been addressed) for 500 miles and drain the oil again. During those first 500 miles, the loading on the rings should be moderate and varying. This is accomplished by varying speeds (no long-distance constant speeds, especially full-throttle) and occasionally increasing the cylinder pressures by quick acceleration or full-throttle uphill climbs. Stay away from redline though. If very-hard rings are used with hard cylinder liners (which are not used in the Mitsubishi 6G72 cast-iron block), the full break-in period may take longer than 500 miles."

Obviously not vehicle specific. The piston sleeves should already be glazed so the break in period isn't going to be very long...maybe 10 hours max...varying speed and acceleration not using redline too much...then change the oil. Pretty much just as you would when you first bought the car.

 

just full wide open throttle and spray.










































j.k

 

 

 

i need to get dyno'd when i put my 50 shot jets in. you get any tuning done after you put your 50 shot jets in, CBodnar?

 

Drive it like your going to drive it.. I was on track 23 hrs after I picked it up and then 13 days later..
(don't think this applies to spray..)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

45wet shot.... 36/22. i just run the fuel jet and run off hopes and dreams. no i am not tuned still on gm stage 2 tune. mod's in my sig pretty much and click on the links to the links of proof of what i ran even though i already highlighted it.

i am selling my nos sniper kit + brand new bottle warmer and pressure gauge. selling the kit all ready to go and the bottle is fully filled too. only selling it for $400 bucks. i need cash bad so i figured i would un-load it. i already achieved all my goals.

weird you say that b/c right when i bought my car i pulled out of the dealership and red lined it and started driving it hard and racing it since day 1. also paul with the 414whp turbo cobalt bought his car and hammered it out of the lot when he first got it however i think he drove a little bit slower and babied it after he punched it a couple times. however i kept driving mine hard.

 

I did that with my first motor.

Not trying to repeat anything with this one.

 

At first glance I thought this thread was titled "Pooper Break In." Im all excited to find out about some surprise buttsecks and here we are talking about pistons and rings and ****.

/end thread

 

The balts and vettes come from the factory with synthetic oil (mobile 1)............so how does your theory hold up with the brand new vehicles?

 

I had to double check myself just now.

Was a tad under the influence last night when I started this thread.