Psi Fi Kit Installed
09-16-2005, 08:08 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by 06black
ok so i'm lsot here...you xhanged your puly down to a 2.8in pully and the car on the dyno showed 211whp? isnt that low for the cobalt even with a stock pully....sorry if i sound like a moron i just dont get it
09-16-2005, 09:18 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by sneaky
wow, that's poop. Hop on a different Dyno. I doubt your setup only yields 211 
245-255whp. Besides when Im racing Ill just say, "What it only puts down 210hp?"
09-16-2005, 10:56 AM
#30
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Read before you make judgements. Dyno Dynamics has been proven to very VERY accurate. If you have dyno'd low then its the operators mistake on how he set the resistance not the machine.
Here is just one article about the unit.
http://www.redline.lt/mag/index.php?id=24
Here is just one article about the unit.
http://www.redline.lt/mag/index.php?id=24
09-16-2005, 01:33 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by num482
Read before you make judgements. Dyno Dynamics has been proven to very VERY accurate. If you have dyno'd low then its the operators mistake on how he set the resistance not the machine.
Here is just one article about the unit.
http://www.redline.lt/mag/index.php?id=24
Here is just one article about the unit.
http://www.redline.lt/mag/index.php?id=24
09-16-2005, 03:35 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by ExHondaMan
Im told they tend to show the VERY low end... Ive seen base Cobalt SS run about 185hp and 175trq.... Owner of the shop told me that this particular dyno normally shows about 28-30% drivetrain loss in FWD.
Also for stock SS's hitting only 185whp that would putt them at 256.9crank hp (182/.72).
"IF" that is the case, my GTP that hit 273whp on a dyno dynamics machine with a 28%DT loss because thats what "he" said it was for fwd I would be at 379crank hp. Sorry but my injectors would be close to or already static and I still have alot of room yet.
I would say that its between 10%-15% for a manual and 15-20% for an automatic. But I will agree that they do show lower numbers than a mustange dyno
09-16-2005, 09:52 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by num482
"IF" this Dyno some how shows 28-30% drivetrain loss than with you hitting 211whp with a 28%DT loss would putt you at 293crank HP (211/.72).
Also for stock SS's hitting only 185whp that would putt them at 256.9crank hp (182/.72).
"IF" that is the case, my GTP that hit 273whp on a dyno dynamics machine with a 28%DT loss because thats what "he" said it was for fwd I would be at 379crank hp. Sorry but my injectors would be close to or already static and I still have alot of room yet.
I would say that its between 10%-15% for a manual and 15-20% for an automatic. But I will agree that they do show lower numbers than a mustange dyno
Also for stock SS's hitting only 185whp that would putt them at 256.9crank hp (182/.72).
"IF" that is the case, my GTP that hit 273whp on a dyno dynamics machine with a 28%DT loss because thats what "he" said it was for fwd I would be at 379crank hp. Sorry but my injectors would be close to or already static and I still have alot of room yet.
I would say that its between 10%-15% for a manual and 15-20% for an automatic. But I will agree that they do show lower numbers than a mustange dyno
09-16-2005, 10:32 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by clownhair
lol thats what I would do also 
haha i keep that 180hp dyno sheet in bottom of my door lol... i haven't got to pull it out yet but i'll sure as hell tell someone i only get 180hp
i am however getting on a mustang dyno on monday to get some real #'s
09-17-2005, 10:32 PM
#35
Premium Member
One question ExHondaman
The dyno chart seems to indicate it was shut down at 6000 instead of going all the way through the rev limter at 6500. Any reason for this?
As you probably know the LSJ is "makin bacon" all the way up to the rev limter so IMO your number might have ended up a bit higher
OR
is this something related to the PSI-FI power-paq?
Regards
WopOnTour
The dyno chart seems to indicate it was shut down at 6000 instead of going all the way through the rev limter at 6500. Any reason for this?
As you probably know the LSJ is "makin bacon" all the way up to the rev limter so IMO your number might have ended up a bit higher
OR
is this something related to the PSI-FI power-paq?
Regards
WopOnTour
09-17-2005, 10:53 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by WopOnTour
One question ExHondaman
The dyno chart seems to indicate it was sht down at 6000 instead of going all the way hrough the rev limter at 6500. Any reason for this?
As you probably know the LSJ is "makin bacon" all the way up to the rev limter so IMO your number might have ended up a bit higher
OR
is this something related to the PSI-FI power-paq?
Regards
WopOnTour
The dyno chart seems to indicate it was sht down at 6000 instead of going all the way hrough the rev limter at 6500. Any reason for this?
As you probably know the LSJ is "makin bacon" all the way up to the rev limter so IMO your number might have ended up a bit higher
OR
is this something related to the PSI-FI power-paq?
Regards
WopOnTour
But since your posted WOP I have a question for you
Ive had the kit on about 4-500 miles... I decided to put in a step colder plug... Car has 4k miles on it.... When you do the kit, they have you pull the plugs and gap to 28... When I pulled them out during the install they looked... Clean... Just very very slight carbon building up on them..... What I expected from such a new car... Well I pulled the plugs out after 400 miles to change them this is what they look like, sorry about the pic quality.. my digital cam sucks...
If you cant see from the pic (which you probably cant)... Plugs are now very dark... Looks like plugs out of something thats running either too rich or is not getting good spark/missing... My AF from my dyno doesnt make me think that its running rich... Its on all 4 cyls... Do you think 28 gap is too small ? too big ? I cant imagine it being too big... When I had my turbo CRX w/ 27psi my gap was only 26.... Maybe there is no problem at all ?
09-17-2005, 11:32 PM
#37
Premium Member
So exactly what plugs are you running?Only 1 step colder??
(that shouldnt be too cold and .028" is fine IMO, maybe open them up to .032"? )
Did you try the NGK BKR7E Coppers @ .032" ? (I thought that was something Mark@PSI-Fi mentioned they did???)
WOT
(that shouldnt be too cold and .028" is fine IMO, maybe open them up to .032"? )
Did you try the NGK BKR7E Coppers @ .032" ? (I thought that was something Mark@PSI-Fi mentioned they did???)
WOT
09-17-2005, 11:35 PM
#38
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Thats what I put in it now... the pic is of the factory plugs after 400mi with the kit...
I gapped the new ones to 28 as well...
Mark@psifi told me try 32... and see what happens
I gapped the new ones to 28 as well...
Mark@psifi told me try 32... and see what happens
09-18-2005, 01:15 AM
#40
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No CEL at all... Car runs great.... Very strong... 2nd is way better.... 3rd is A TON better...
better being faster
It did go into limp mode once..... I was racing a civic si.... In 2nd@5500rpm... Car acted like it bounced off the rev limiter and the tach stopped working... Car went into limp mode... No MILs illuminated... I babied it home (was only like 1 miles away)... Waited about 5 mins thinking of what the hell I had done... went back out and restarted it and it was totally fine...
I did a search on this forum though and it seems quite a few people have had this identical problem without the kit... Gear and RPM range was identical too.... Im thinking a glitch in the PCM ?
better being faster
It did go into limp mode once..... I was racing a civic si.... In 2nd@5500rpm... Car acted like it bounced off the rev limiter and the tach stopped working... Car went into limp mode... No MILs illuminated... I babied it home (was only like 1 miles away)... Waited about 5 mins thinking of what the hell I had done... went back out and restarted it and it was totally fine...
I did a search on this forum though and it seems quite a few people have had this identical problem without the kit... Gear and RPM range was identical too.... Im thinking a glitch in the PCM ?
09-19-2005, 10:46 AM
#41
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What are the factory plugs and factory gap? If there platinum stay away, alot of the gtp guys are burning them up and breaking the tips off.
I like copper plugs, autolite work great, cheap price, but need to change more often.
When you go with a colder if you do alot of short trips the plugs will foul out quick and look like crap. The car needs to warm up for them to burn clean.
Sorry if I came off like a dick about the dyno, just trying to get some facts out. Good luck with the car.
I like copper plugs, autolite work great, cheap price, but need to change more often.
When you go with a colder if you do alot of short trips the plugs will foul out quick and look like crap. The car needs to warm up for them to burn clean.
Sorry if I came off like a dick about the dyno, just trying to get some facts out. Good luck with the car.
09-20-2005, 08:30 AM
#43
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Originally Posted by phxSS
.032" gap for plugs is the standard for supercharged engines.
09-20-2005, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by selfinfliction
haha i keep that 180hp dyno sheet in bottom of my door lol... i haven't got to pull it out yet but i'll sure as hell tell someone i only get 180hp
i am however getting on a mustang dyno on monday to get some real #'s
i am however getting on a mustang dyno on monday to get some real #'s
if you do want "glory" numbers, go to a dynojet
09-20-2005, 05:18 PM
#46
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Im going to regap the plugs tonight..... I installed my mechanical boost gauge last nights... Ill post pics later tonight.... Shows im running at 17psi.. 
11-02-2005, 12:21 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by Vita
a mustang dyno is going to yeild lower numbers as well, as it is a loaded dyno.
if you do want "glory" numbers, go to a dynojet
if you do want "glory" numbers, go to a dynojet
11-02-2005, 01:07 PM
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Hey my engine cut out on me and went totaly limp at 5500 on 2nd. Engine power reduced went on and EL came on for a day or two then went away. PLugged it in the next day and nothing..