I have about 70000 on my lsj,..at start up I get a lil tap sound til my temp gets to about 100,..then it goes away,..car idles excellent,..no sound except at start up,..but under acceleration theres a chainy rattle sound,..but its been like this for months,..no performance issues,..no codes,,,just an annoying sound,...under idle nothing,..and only few secs of tap at start up,..you can hear it inside of car and if I have my dad drive by in my car I cannot hear it from outside,...what do you guys think

 

I suggest you upgrade the timing tensioner. Crate Engine Depot.com plug and play.

 

Same here.same sound..... Either chain guide or tensioner.

How do we set it mr. Powel??

 

so I can just unscrew old one and then put new one in,,,i read all this horror about stuff going wrong,,,some say take valve cover off n zip tie gears,,,some say just remove old in with new

 

its all internet tribal wisdom. Put the new one in, after removing and throwing away the old one. no setting no bs. If you want to remove the rocker cover and all that go ahead an waste your time. Like Armclure said on another thread, its probably impossible to jump time changing the tensioner for the upgraded one.

 

So we install in set position or unset?

 

Install it in the short position. Then push/nit it to get it to go to the long position

 

I would take the valve cover off as timing will jump at least mine did I scrapped the POS stock hydraulic tensioner and went mechanical

 

I have a local shop that quoted me 192 for labor and parts,...I could do it myself for less than 50,...ill decide this morning,...it sounds too easy,..especially if u ziptie the gears and chain so it cant move

 

Where in tx do u live?

 

ziptieing the gears and chain up top does absolutely nothing. But suit yourself if it makes you feel better. I answered the question posed by the thread, quickly and correctly.

 

My GM Shop manual says to take the valve cover off to do that.

 

if the chain jumped timing when you replaced the tensioner then the chain and gears and sliders should have been replaced as it was all worn out

 

You only had to set them, with the old style tensioner.
no need to pull the vale cover.
You sure it's coming from the engine and not possibly the trans? Just thinkning out loud. The few tensioners I've seen go bad, "diesel" at idle

 

I just replaced mine yesterday, couldn't have been easier. I bumped the starter a few times just to make sure, but like PRP said, plug and play.

 

All new parts

 

before or after as many chains as I have replaced if it was all new and jumped time then you have a problem

 

all new before and it was the intake side that jumped a tooth after removing tensioner i assure you nothing is mechanically wrong with engine. i would never replace a tensioner without verifying that the timing marks are lined up why be lazy and take the chance of valves saying hello to pistons??

 

the only time I have had one jump time is from worn parts like the chain or gears and such

 

pointless arguing the point, the poster has his point of view, but I am with you Mr. B. For the inlet gear to jump after the tensioner was removed, something else was going on for sure. Like a lower guide broken, or rotating the engine while the tensioner was out.

meh

 

mine is getting changed in the morning,,,,hope this fixes the sounds im getting,,,they are driving me crazy,,,,

 

mine jumped teeth when I did the plug and play. I should have rotated the engine by hand instead of bumping the starter. I bought a new chain, and the length matched up perfectly with the old one. The gears were fine. All the guides were fine. I think the chain may have jumped when I removed the old tensioner. I wanted to turn the final threads by hand when removing it to prevent it from popping out and possibly unsetting the chain, but I couldn't turn it by hand. I used a socket, and it popped out into the socket. This is probably what unset the chain and allowed the cam gear to move especially if the exhaust cam wasn't in a resting position.

If I had to do it again i would still probably just do a plug and play, but i would rotate the crank by hand with a wrench to make sure it didnt jump teeth before bumping the starter, and definitely keep a lot of axial force on the tensioner while it's being removed. I would suggest using an open ended wrench or box wrench so you can push on it and remove it slowly.

It ended up costing me $500 for a head gasket kit, new valves, seals, guides, and the head work.

 

Isn't bumping the starter meant to keep the chain from jumping teeth?

 

no

 

the lnf guys are getting some aftermarket oil driven tensioner that is supposed to be light years a head of the gm unit but a mech tensioner is dandy also I may go that route