$50 is a normal going rate for 3 power pulls. At least in my area.

 

Dude, their dyno is rating low, but those are some sweet numbers. Man, I wish mine put down that.





J/K girl, you know your siggy makes it hard to resist.

 

Blah, so what if one dyno says 220 and one says 240. Your doing the right thing by going back to the same shop and seeing what your mods are doing. There's too many different types of dynos, and none will give the same numbers as the other. Sure, I might go to shop a knowing that they have numbers on the high side to brag about it, but once I'm at that track the only numbers that are gonna mean anything are those one on the slip.

 

That is the exact reason I went back to the same shop. You can tell exacty what stage 2 gives you, 18.87whp & 23.21wtq. All under warrenty!!! Im happy...for now..lol

 

Geat numbers....I'm anxious for the stage II kit myself. The car is fun to drive now.

 

hmm and i was off yesterday too, wasnt around to go though, i do want to visit a dynojet after the first oil change though

 

Only 18 whp? You should have put down more than that.

 

What are you comparing that to? If you look around these #'s are normal gains. Your only switching to a slightly smaller pulley that ups the boost to 15psi, injectors, and a conservative GM tune. All warrantied power.

 

Actually, I wouldn't say it gives you 19whp and 23wtq. I'd say it gives you about +8.9% whp and 12.4% wtq, which is actually about what it should give you if you put down 220whp and 195wtq stoke.

Though your torque curve is not as flat, your power band starts earlier. This with the increased redline should help with shift stalling a great deal.

Another point you can see is that your torque curve drops alot at the high end of the scale. This lets you know that ether your running out of cam or your exhaust is not flowing enough to let you keep your torque high, compared to how it flowed with the stock pulley. I'd guess it is cam, so it might be time for a header and downpipe, or even a full 2.5" straight pipe exhaust. I'd say you really want to improved your exhaust flow before getting some cams.

Something else that might be hurting your high end is higher IAT2 temps from the faster spilling SC causing some timing to be pulled at the higher end. You might want to consider adding something to help with this or scan the temps.

 

Ill be definatly going with you guys. Just need to get some more $$. Also can I accomplish the 2.79 pulley with the 42lb Injectors and Meth Injection?

 

I forgot to add I have a 2.5" Catless DP.. also I did try running a side exit exhaust and it showed next to nothing. I need a custom tune and some cams...injectors etc.

 

2.8 pulley on 42lbers is not a real great idea, even with water/meth thats dangerously close on injector duty cycle, theres been a number of posts reguarding that.

If by some chance you did manage to stay under 80% duty cycle pretty much any future moddding is going to push the injectors beyond what they can handle theres not much room for improvement, going to 60lbers would be your best bet if your going to go smaller than 2.9 on the pulley

 

Yea, I have my eye on some 60s just need to figure out if any of the group buys I'm in actually go through...

 

Ok, so 2.5" catless downpipe and catback. What about your header? Still stock or did you swap it out, because if that was stock it would cause a big restriction on your exhaust at the higher rpms.

Other than that though, I agree with you that some cams might be a good idea. I would sugest the JBP triflow ones, since they appear to help across the board instead of just pushing your power band higher up the rpm range. While you got the head off to change the cams, might as well get that sucker ported/polished and maybe change some of the drivetrain. At the least the springs, but you wanna make sure that the whole drivetrain can handle the lift of the cams. I think shooting for 0.5" is perfect since that seems to be the hight of most of the aftermarket cams.

So lets see...
Higher flowing header (if not already changed)
60# Injectors
2.7~2.9" pulley (base on target redline and cooling system)
Cooling as needed (2 pass heat extractor, larger heat exhanger, overflow can, water injection)
Monitering, cuz without it you'll blow something up
Cams (I like JBP TriFlow, but there are other choices)
Valve & Springs (to handle the cams)
Head port and polish (local or buy one, local is cheaper but make sure its a good shop)
Tune tune tune, cuz this sucka will run like shizt or not at all till you do.

 

Didn't realize it until now, but a friend of mine got his VW tuned or dynoed there.

 

As she stands now, the 2.8 and 42.5lbs injectors would work handsomely together. When adding the methanol, you actually REMOVE fuel from the hide end to allow for the methanol mixture to be incorporated. The cam's and tune would be where she would pick up significant gains, making the 60 lb injectors more required.

Im not saying dont go with the 60's they are worth it, but with the meth, at 290 whp, i was only at 74% duty on the 60's. There are guys on the rl.forums, and such running 42's and seeing 260 whp and higher without comprimising the set-up or injectors.

 

Mattyfinch I really don't understand why your still posting on here, haven't you ripped off enough people. I wonder when my credit card company is gonna come after you

now to your stupidity, first off 2.8 and 42lb injectors don't go together "handsomely" even if you got meth spray or in your case 80% meth spraying If you want to post some log files as proof, I'll post mine....oh wait you don't have HPT, you got your car tuned by someone else and now you think you know something.

you still post on the RL forum too, man you got some *****