shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

This is my 1st post and I am new to the forums and ecotech engines but I have educated myself this past weekend reading the wealth of information on 2.4 LSJ/LE5 swaps from guys like mrbelvedere, full throttle and Tjolley.

So here is my story. Picked up a 2006 SS cobalt on the cheap that was not running and I was hoping for a cheap fix but as it turns out the bottom end looks like a grenade went off (See pictures below). Luckily the head still looks good and no damage to the valves, could use some freshening up which I will probably do with a light port and polish.

Now as far as an LE5 I just so happen to have a clean 60K motor taken from a buddies Malibu donor car that was hit from behind.

So to contribute to the forums and leverage the experience of the Ecotec Guru’s I figured I would post my build and look for feedback as this build progresses.

Note: This is a budget build so I cannot be considering forged pistons, cams, ect.. would love to do this but not at this time. Labor is free

Now for the Build Plan:
LE5 block and pistons
LSJ head and cams (port/polish, valve stems, lapping)
Cometic head gasket
LSJ reluctor wheel swap (Have some questions on this)
M-62 Supercharger rebuild (replace bearings, port inlets/outlets)
L200 flywheel with SS clutch and pressure plate (Will this work???)

Thanks

Tjolley

The clocking of The relucTor wheel and flywheel is really The only Thing you need To do.. besides the le5 bein weaker

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

First order of business the reluctor wheel and the obvious differences. From my understanding they are swappable and due to the larger size of the LSJ wheel that the crank sensor will have to have a spacer to maintain the correct gap between the wheel and the sensor. I have not opened the LE5 case yet but can confirm the LSJ reluctor wheel is secured with 3 bolts and has around a .050" gap from sensor to wheel.

I do recall Full Throttle stating another modification to the wheel was needed for alignment but unfortunately all his images have been taken down. Does the modification have something to do with the timing for TDC or is it a fitment issue?

LSJ Reluctor Wheel:


LE5 Reluctor Wheel:


LSJ CPS Gap .050"

Tjolley

The best way would to reclock the reluctor wheel. I can do that for u.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

the 2.4 rods and pistons are weak they are rated to 200-250hp so don't waste your time with the le5 junk if you want to do it on the cheap use 2.4 block lsj rods and crank get a custom set of pistons get a gm le5 hg and a 3mm spacer for the lsj crank sensor if you choose to use all le5 parts your going to either reclock le5 relucter or us lsj and open up all the windows some and get a custom flywheel get a set of rods and pistons and either way use a gm le5 hg but your best bet is to find a good lsj short block bolt the head up to it and put it In

ThexGovenor

iTrader: (2)

Im going to keep an eye on this.

Raiden8816

iTrader: (3)

Wrong. The 2006 LE5 rods and pistons are forged and rated at 300HP.

The 2007+ are not forged and are the same parts used in the 2007+ L61 thus being a lower HP rating.

I am in the process of building a L61 LE5 hybrid.

Tjolley

That must be a shitty forging then...i was under the impression that all the le5 rods were cast but i did hear the older ones being stronger.

Tjolley

Do itself the favor and get some stock lsj rods they r proven way stronger than the l61 and Le5

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

gm says to replace between 200-250 hp use at your own risk

GoodLuckBro

I thought it was the '06-'07's that were forged. When the name changed in '08 so did the rods and pistons.

Raiden8816

iTrader: (3)

2006 only.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

I will be cracking open the LE5 tonight to check the rods and pistons and will advise. Quick observation when I removed the valve cover and front cover:

(1) Looks like the chain has skipped a tooth or assembled 1 tooth off, is this common?
(2) Surface is coated in iodine or orangish type color. Is this factory or caused by an oil additive? First I was thinking burnt or overheated but the more I look at it seems not to be burnt into the surface.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

you have to roll the engine over an insane amount of times to get the marks to line back up

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

ran short on time and was not able to get a piston pulled to confirm if the rods are forged steel or powder but did find the following information for the differences in years. Looking at my rods I believe I have the 06/07 forged steel. Pistons also appear to be forged and not cast.

2006-2007: 12596088 A 2.4-B/P (LE5), (1ST DES) ROD, CONN (FORGED STEEL W/ROUNDED EDGES ON CAP AND MFG TRIM MARK AROUND OUTER PERIMETER) (FOR 2ND DES SEE 12611360)

2008+ 12598216 A 2.4-B/P (LE5), (2ND DES) ROD, CONN (POWDER METAL W/SMOOTH SURFACE CAP AND SINGLE RIDGE ACROSS CAP, W/O MFG TRIM MARK AROUND OUTER PERIMETER) (FOR 1ST DES SEE 12596088)

GoodLuckBro

Thank you for confirming that it is in fact the '06-'07 years and not just the '06. I'm over 200whp-250whp easily with my turbo.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Stock rods and pistons? I see a lot of 2.4 Solstice builds claiming +300Hp and turbo boosted which makes me feel better, granted I will have more compression and a supercharger and will need to up the fuel.

GoodLuckBro

Yep, stock everything. I was up near 300whp on 10psi.

usafcobalt

Subd! Love these builds. Oh and that color is just oil staining the aluminum. No worries there

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

OK, got the block separated, crank and pistons pulled. My digital calipers are dead so dont have exact measurements but obvious from the picture that the LSJ reluctor is larger and LSJ rods are thicker so regardless if forged steel or powder the LSJ's are fatter and stronger.

Tjolley, I have sent you a message and ready to send you the reluctor. Question, if re-clocking the LE5 reluctor the 3mm spacer should not be needed? I am assuming the clocking modification involves cutting and welding of the wheel for the correct timing marks?

Tjolley

No welding is needed. Im going to put the reluctor on a rotary indexing fixture for my bridge port mill.. basically I'm going to very accurately relocate the holes.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

So I see on Flebay 2.2L Wiseco piston sets and Eagle rods for like $800 with rings, wrist pins and ARP bolts. Why no 2.4L sets at this price?

Tjolley

Cuz the 2.2 has been around way longer..

usafcobalt

^^and that my friend is why no one builds a 2.4

BoostedEco

SO much misinformation. I spent 6 months researching LE5 motors, I was going to do a LE5/L61 hybrid. I went to dealers, and searched online and also a friend did a lot of work too. What we found is that the 2006-2007 LE5 Rod's are of the SAME material and forging process as the 05-07 SS/SC. They will handle high 300 whp (limit I found was 420 Crank). I also inspected the bottoms of an LSJ and 2006 LE5 with the pan off and the rods look nearly identical, same rough casting lines, same color of material and other similarities. Now, do I have proof of this? Yes, I ran my turbo hybrid motor at 360 whp and never had an issue. The later LE5's 08+ use the same material and casting process as the L61/LAP, so 250 whp is easily a safe bet. I also studied an 08 LE5 and 08 L61 with pans off, and noticed the same similarities here, color, casting lines and such. The information is out there if you want to find it. You can buy FACTORY 2006 LE5 rods for well under 200$ for the set.

Good luck I am excited to see your build