not that im up in the milage but would like to know for future reference. gm says that the eaton last up to a 100K miles. when you get up to that milage what do you have to do? buy a new sc or get it rebuilt. who would you take it to?

 

the S/C is a sealed unit, and oil cannot be serviced/replaced/changed, if you are having issues at 100K then you would probably have to replace the S/C. If not, keep driving/going until you do have issues..... If you have to replace the S/C at some point down the road, that wouold be a golden opportunity to consider upgrading to a twin screw S/C. Longevity of your S/C probably has a lot to do with how hard you drive your car, how clean you keep the air going into the S/C VIA the throttle body/air cleaner, as to how long the S/C will last. The oil in the S/C from the factory is synthetic, so given reasonably clean air and not beat on too excessively hard, could last a long, long time.

Another thing to think about is heat. Heat kills S/C's just like the other things I mentioned, and Roots S/C are know for the excessive heat they generate-@16# boost, over 160*. Think about a two pass I/C end plate-option B, and even possibly another H/E. I also use Thermo Tec heat tape on the air tube/outlet duct, and total fuel rail assembly. Cooler air and cooler fuel helps. You can also take off the upper intake manifold sight shield and the rear hood seal to let a lot of the hot underhood air extract, flow out of the engine compartment. Keeping your engine/engine compartment, and the air going into the S/C cooler will go a long way toward engine and S/C longevity. If interested check out my post on Better/More effecient engine cooling for more details.

Doc

 

actually i change the oil on my sc every 10k miles. it is not a sealed unit in the way you think. there is a fill/drain plug on the snout side. that u open with an allen key. you can pick up the sc oil from any gm dealership for about $8 a bottle. takes almost 2 bottles. 6.5 ounces to be exact. i highly recommend pulling the sc off to change the oil. let it drain for a while. then add in the new oil. DO NOT OVERFILL!

the sc can also be rebuilt, but leave that to a pro like these guys:http://www.psesuperchargers.com/
jimbo

 

I would only use Magnuson Products to do a rebuild as PSE does not use genuine parts and or approved rebuild methods
How its done:
Parts:
You will need two bottles of GM supercharger oil, GM p/n: 12345982 , this can be purchased at any GM dealership

Tools:
Turkey baster
Short hose- needs to fit over end of turkey baster, and in s/c plug, about
6" long.
3/16 Allen wrench or hex bit

NOTE: Make sure that your engine is cool before starting this!

1-Unscrew the super charger oil inspection plug (a black plug at the front of the
super charger snout using a 3/16 hex head).

2-Insert the tube (that's attached to the turkey baster in to the hole and suck out as much oil as you can. This may have to be done many times to remove as much of the oil that you can. Dispose
of your old/used oil with your old motor oil in an environmentally SAFE manner.

3- Add the oil until it fills the snout to the bottom of the threads. It will take almost two bottles. Be careful to NOT overfill!

4- Screw the plug back in and do not over torque. 8-12 ft/lbs is more than enough!

5- After driving around for a day or so, check the oil level while the car is on a level surface. It's also a good idea to check the level of your supercharger snout at every oil change

 

ur supercharger is spose to be cleaned every so often, i was told by the dealer

 

thats interesting i had always heard pse were the guys to go to and that magnussen sent there blowers to them for rebuild. good how too . i've always just unbolted mine so i can inspect the rotors periodically

 

which on page 6-1395 under Supercharger Description and Operation which says, that the S/C gears and ball bearings are lubricated by a synthetic oil and "This oil reservoir is sealed for the life of the unit and is not serviceable". So much for factory shop manuals. I guess I am not real surprised as in one section in the GM factory shop manual, with regard to removing and replacing the Intake Manifold (charge air cooler) gasket, on one page it says the I/M gasket is reuseable, only replace it if damage has occured. Then 58 pages later it says to remove the I/M gasket and discard the gasket.

I guess the rule of thumb on that is it might be a good idea to go with the new improved I/M gasket to help negate the oil dipstick coming loose and giving your engine an oil bath, depending on how soon you discover it is loose. Personally, with gaskets I pretty much never reuse them period. I've been drag racing 30+ years and I don't get as much enjoyment redoing something over again a second time because a used gasket failed. Spend the money for a new gasket and you're generally done with it, if installed correctly.

Thanks to jimbo'ss and EatonSC for S/C servicing procedures. I see on an earlier post by EstonSC was said "The LSJ M62 has a lifetime fill and should not need to be changed before 100,000 miles." "But if you fell like doing it... " Then followed the same instruction steps by EatonSC above for maintenance. If they are connected to the manufacture or design of the Eaton S/C in some way, I suspect they pretty much know what they are talking about.

Doc

 

its not required that you service the sc as the manual states, but it will probably prolong it's life. plus it's cheap and easy to change the oil out periodically. as far as the gasket i usually use a thin layer of copper gasket maker(high temp orange stuff) on both sides of the gasket, and i've never had the dipstick problem.

 

Sorry it took so long for me to reply.

On the gasket maker, a lot of guys I race with use silicon sealer religiously, along with other types of silicon products for a variety of uses. As a matter of fact, I was fortunate to have Loctite-Permatex as one of my drag car sponsors for many years, and will swear by their products. They were very good to me, and I gladly displayed their decals on my race car and trailer. I still use many Loctite-Permatex products daily, Fast Orange etc. The car manufacturers are also increasingly using the silicon sealers in place of paper and other composition gaskets, especially the black.

That being said, in this case however, I prefer to stay with what the factory uses on the LSJ's intake and S/C. There is a reason they use metal gaskets. Might be so that they are reuseable, though as I said earlier, reuse on the I/M gasket is contradicted in the GM factory shop manual. I doubt they use metal because it is cheaper, or easier on the environment, read "green". A couple squirts of silicon sealer would surely be cheaper. Maybe it is for ease of assembly, not as messy, removes the possiblity of human error by the GM factory assembly techs possibly putting on to much silicon or too little or leaving a gap in the sealer, who knows?

I'm glad you are having success with it. I used the Loctite high temp silicon sealer, I think it was the red, one time on a 1987 Buick Grand National to seal the turbo to the down pipe, you know how hot they get, and it worked fine. An aside, I was adjusting the waste gate on that car one time, and bumped up against the turbo down pipe with the back of my hand. Luckily I had on a pair or Mechanix gloves. I melted the glove, but protected my hand from a nasty, serious burn.

One thing on the dipstick issue. It is pretty easy to bump the dipstick if you are reaching around under the hood, especially in that area. If you loosen it, that is all it takes for it to take flight when you are driving down the road, particularly if you jump on the accelerator pedal. Let me tell you first hand, if that happens, you get to clean up an ugly mess under your hood. It's a pretty good ideal to check that the dipstick is in tight on a regular basis. I also make sure I clean off the rubber o-rings on the dipstick and inside the dipstick tube to make sure it seats as tightly as possible.

Doc

 

Nope
PSE does not rebuild the Magnuson blowers , PSE is not an authorised Eaton rebuilder
Magnuson has the proper tools , jigs , and training and is the only auth north american rebuilder

 

sonofabtich, maybe if i change my oil, itll help with the clicking sound of the supercharger at idle...i can hear the stupid cores spinning, its annoying and loud.

 

Tahts actually the supercharger coupler.

 

I just had my S/C oil changed recently and Ive got 28k on mine. I asked the tech who worked on it how much fluid was inside to which he responded "not much drained out." He took the S/C completely off and let it drain before refilling it. I asked what color the fluid was also to which he said "was pretty dark in color."

Even asked if changing the S/C fluid was a good idea and he told me "best to be safe than sorry"

 

im doing alot of maintenance on my car at 30k and this is one of those things im definitely doing. Car just hit 28k today.

 

is there a way to fix this?

 

yes... zzp i know sells a coupler...

its really not hard to change, there is a how to on this forum.

 

3.4oz

 

im surprised they give 100k on it

 

I'm a little confused, do u have to take the supercharger off to service it or can u just do it while on the engine?