NO 1's argueing with you... do what you want, you posted & wanted to know & we told you. I have been a member here for 3 years & some and heard it all before & many did blow their car, if you want to waste money on a tune that will do you no good,, go for it. If you don't drive hard then why get a tune? But to do it right & not exspose your motor to temps it don't like... cooling 1st & Tune 2nd <<<<Thats the right way!
OH & by the way, if you tune the Ideas is to run more timing & lean it up a little...which will make HP & run Hotter, in return make it pull more timing>>>>From guess what, Lack of Cooling!
Sometimes it pays to be Penny smart & not pound foolish!

 

ok well ill have to wait to weeks in between the duel pass over and the h/e so its better to go with the duel first right?

 

dual pass will be the "harder" of the 2 so yeah i'd get that before a fmhe.
better yet, save up, just wait, get the dual pass, option b, and h/e at the same time and install, will make it a lot easier on you cause you won't have to keep messing with the hosing.
after that you'll be ready for a tune and smaller pulleys if desired, only other cooling mod you would do is meth, if you feel like it eventually.

 

Yes the dual pass can be hooked right into the stock system without a Front mount, then when you get a front mount it's only a matter of changing 2 hoses! You motor will Love you

 

thanks for everything guys god i love this site

 

I'd just hate to see your thread in a few weeks "motor blew what to do". .

it's better to man up and lay down the 300 for the dp, h/e, and opt b and save your engine then deal with a goner.

 

No problem man, They anit making anymore LSJ's so we got to watch out for each other!
But think of it this way, you are already running a pulley smaller than GM stage 3.... so creating more heat then stage 3 & Gm recommends it be done on the stage 3 pulley....So do the math!

 

300 for a dp and h/e and opt b i wish it was that cheap

 

If you are going with the endplate first this is one of the cheapest you just either pay the core charge get the end plate and send them your, they willl refund. Or send your stock endplate first.

http://www.ottperformance.com/Cobalt...duct_info.html

You can use it with option A until you can get the option B tank and plumb it.

I would also agree with a lot of the people on here, screw the tune, get some cooling mods for the air, the worry about the tune when you know your engine is safe but thats just me.

 

it is... lol..
you just have to know where to look.

 

ding ding ding...winnar! these pumps love to die around 20,000 to 25,000 miles. make sure the fluid in your feed neck is bubbling up. i ran the 2.9 set-up for about a year with no cooling mods. with a dead IC pump my IAT2's were 178* after a long 1st, 2nd,3rd, and 4th gear pull. with the IC pump fixed it did 150*. with my HE it does 138*

 

yeah ensure your pump is functioning also, you don't want cooling mods and a dead pump lol.

 

Yah you really have to watch that too... Mine went out at 40,000 and my IAT's rose to 200+ and that was with not even boosting. Damn 115* AZ! haha

Once you feel that timing getting pulled let off! Save your engine. Get an Aeroforce to monitor that stuff. You might not want to spend the money now, but it is worth it when you have to rebuild.

 

how do you check it?

 

make sure the fluid in the feed neck in front of the SC is bubbling up. if not give the IC pump under the car some light taps with a hammer and you will get a little more mileage out of it

 

Open the coolant neck, depending on how long you ran your car it will either surge up and out the neck if its hot coolant (be careful when opening), or if the coolant is cold you should be able to see the water rushing by.. Possibly some bubbles too.

 

I know people down here that have 50k plus on stock pumps all running option B, what they dont like is heat. Heat kills pumps fast....because they are plastic & ceramic enternals with orings. You know where I live & the Highest I got was 129 after 4 pulls back to back at 95degrees & humdity out the a$$. I dynoed at Rage in davie, you know what the best was I pulled more HP on the 4th pull than the 1st!

Turn Key on & put hand on pump....If pump don't engage it anit working!
Our pumps engage as soon as you turn the key to on position!

 

our bosch pumps are a carbon brush style design. the brushes wear down and cover the magnet with material, thats why tapping them with a hammer to get the material off of the magnet allows it to get working again but after the brushes wear down to far so they dont make contact to operate the spin cycle, the pump will no longer work.