I have a 07 cobalt ss sc with just about every bolt on with Nos..all that good stuff.
Will was running a Honda with a h22 swap on the freeway. I had me and 3 other ppl in the car. Don't ask y. It was stupid. Anyways he pulls up I dropped it in 3rd and he both stood on it. Of course I pulled away in the Balt like nothing and just wen I got off it the seemed to be different. I get home and I noticed oil under the car. Poped the hood and it blew the oil dipstick out. So long story short in sure I fried some rings.
Now the car smokes like a bitch. It runs ok but defiantly getting lots of blow by now.
So Santa left me some new rods, pistons, head gasket, and all that. I'm gona try and tear the engine apart in the car. Don't really have the room to pull it out. So has anyone done this? I plan on pullin the head and dropping the pan. Pushin the rods and pistons out the top. Is there any reason y I couldn't do it this way. I don't want to wast to time and find out I can't. I have all the tooling to pull the sleeves out and put the new ones in. I also have the factory service manuals. Plz give me ur thoughts on this. The car only has 40,000 miles on it. Thank u

 

If you plan on doing the sleeves I wouldnt do it in the car. Dont they need honed after they are installed ?

 

my service manual doesn't say anything about honing it says to use one of the tools in the sleeve puller kit to chamfer the top of the sleeve then it goes on about checking the ring gap for each cylinder.

 

Yes it can be done like that, don't forget to pull the side cover to retime the crank properly. You'll likely have to tilt the block some to do this but otherwise everything you plan on doing has already been done in car by others.

 

there are all sorts of things you can do, rebuilding the ecotec in the frame is not a good idea. For sure, inframe rebuilds on class 8 tractors is a way of life, but those machines are totally different for space and for the procedures.

Mongorat has it right, you need to hone to get good ring sealing and you need to center on the crank mains to get the hone perpendicular and the cylinder round. SO cheapest if you have a cracked sleeve is a 1500 drop in motor out of Morad or QEK or Advanced auto parts, most if these enginescome with a warranty that they are good and will run... and you score an alternator, starter motor even an sc on most of them

the alternative will be to do what you plan to do, but while it will look cheaper as youget started, the tears and the costs will ramp up in spectacular fashion if you are the slightest bit unlucky.
as in head gasket good/sleeve cracked... my .02; merry xmas and good luck

 

My bad, I didn't see you were pulling and swapping sleeves. ZZP has girdled lsj blocks for $1000, get a refund on your sleeve stuff and just do a block swap.

 

I under stand all this I'm just trying to get the car back on the track for a lil while...I'm hoping that I won't have to pull the sleeves..I just hope I can yank the piston and rods out and basically drop the new ones in..I'm getting the rods fitted to the pins next week so in gona be tearing into it tomarrow...I'm a machines for Caterpillar..I do in frame rebuild and even boring crank gringing in the block..I'm just trying to get a lil info if anyone has done it befor. Cuz I don't want to wast time and find out I have to pull it out... If I have to pull it I will..I'm almost sure its the rings.

 

Yes, pistons have been swapped with the block in car. Straight from GMPP:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...Gyru6WDHzMEjJA

 

Thank u very much. I appreciate it.. Now im just hoping a sleeve isn't cracked. Then ill be goin to rip it out

 

gm sleeves come as a finished bore for install no honing needed but you will have a 50/50 shot on the sleeves being round from gm mine werent round and requrired a an over bore of 9 thousands to make them round gm dosent care if the bore is strait the factory rings are soft and will wear in into the the bore and seal aftermarket rings will not due to the fact that they are made out of alot harder material the kit to do the sleeves is 3000.00 and is designed to be used in car or out of car and comes with all the tooling needed to do the job even the rotory file to cut the top on the new sleeve down but you will have to buy a special triple reduced 1/2in drill that spins only 600 rpms to use the that part of the kit

old sleeve out



new sleeve going in



you can do an in car piston replacement pretty easy ive done several that way but here is the down side to doing it in the care
excessive piston to wall clearance with aftermarket pistons forged pistons are a little noisey to begin with because of the loose cold clearance when they warm up they get alot quiter but if you start off more then required clearance the pistons will be realy noisey and you will eventully break either the piston skirt off or crack a sleeve or both because the piston is wobbling in the bore

oil burning and detonation due to the aftermarket rings will never seat becase the bore isent round and you will eventuly knock the engine apart and that puts right back to where you were

solution is

go back with stock parts that will fit loose and live or pull the engine and fix it properly

gm uses the stuff they use because it give them a 98% chance that everything will seal up and there wint be a problem and alot less warranty repairs on the internals of the engine are they they greatest parts for all out performance no but they arent bad either


i replaced all 4

 

Now, me and the mad scientist got to rip apart the block... and replace the piston rings you fried.

 

I was afraid of that I'm gone rip it apart in the car a measure the cylinders..if something isn't round or there will be tomuch clearance piston to cylinder gess I will be ripping it out and building a monster after all.
Ok next question I have looked but have not read about the zzp 2.4 stroker lsj cuz if I'm gone have it out I'm gone do it all Tvs, cams, the hole 9 yards

 

the there isent much room in the tolerences on these engines the reason it is that is the sleeves are only .060 thick and an over bore of .010 is as far as i would take it the first block i took to the machine shop had a piston to cyl wal clearance of .015 and the taper was .010 it was out of round by alot also so i took my other block up it wasent as abd but still way out so i sleeved it

 

iformation from akidashadow

2.0 LSJ Supercharged

Engine Mechanical Specifications Application
Specification

Metric
English

General Data

•Engine Type
Inline 4 Cylinder

•Displacement
2.0 L
122 CID

•RPO
LSJ

•Liter (VIN)
P

•Bore
85.992-86.008 mm
3.3855-3.3861 in

•Stroke
86 mm
3.388 in

•Compression Ratio
9.5:1

Balance Shaft

•Bearing Clearance
0.030-0.063 mm
0.0012-0.0025 in

•Bearing Diameter - Inside - Carrier
20.050-20.063 mm
0.7894-0.7899 in

•Bearing Diameter - Outside - Carrier
41.975-41.995 mm
1.6526-1.6534 in

•Bearing Journal Diameter
20.000-20.020 mm
0.7874-0.7882 in

•Bushing Clearance
0.033-0.102 mm
0.0013-0.0040 in

•Bushing Diameter - Inside
36.776-36.825 mm
1.4479-1.4498 in

•Bushing Journal Diameter
36.723-36.743 mm
1.4458-1.4466 in

•End Play
0.100-0.300 mm
0.0020-0.0118 in

Block

•Balance Shaft Bearing Bore Diameter - Carrier
42.000-42.016 mm
1.6535-1.6542 in

•Balance Shaft Bushing Bore Diameter
40.763-40.776 mm
1.6048-1.6054 in

•Crankshaft Main Bearing Bore Diameter
64.068-64.082 mm
2.5224-2.5229 in

•Cylinder Bore Diameter
85.992-86.008 mm
3.3855-3.3861 in

•Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round - Maximum
0.010 mm
0.0004 in

•Cylinder Bore Taper - Maximum
0.010 mm
0.0004 in

•Cylinder Head Deck Surface Flatness - Longitude
0.050 mm
0.002 in

•Cylinder Head Deck Surface Flatness - Overall
0.08 mm
0.0031 in

•Cylinder Head Deck Surface Flatness - Transverse
0.030 mm
0.0012 in

Camshaft

•Camshaft End Play
0.040-0.144 mm
0.0016-0.0057 in

•Camshaft Journal Diameter
26.935-26.960 mm
1.0604-1.0614 in

•Camshaft Thrust Surface
21.000-21.052 mm
0.8268-0.8252 in

Connecting Rod

•Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance
0.029-0.069 mm
0.0011-0.0027 in

•Connecting Rod Bore Diameter - Bearing End
52.118-52.134 mm
2.0519-2.05252 in

•Connecting Rod Bore Diameter - Pin End
23.007-23.017 mm
0.9058-0.9062 in

•Connecting Rod Side Clearance
0.070-0.370 mm
0.0028-0.0146 in

•Connecting Rod Straightness - Bend - Maximum
0.021 mm
0.0083 in

•Connecting Rod Straightness - Twist - Maximum
0.04 mm
0.0157 in

Crankshaft

•Connecting Rod Journal Diameter
49.000-49.014 mm
1.9291-1.9297 in

•Crankshaft End Play
0.050-0.380 mm
0.0012-0.0150 in

•Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance
0.031-0.067 mm
0.0012-0.0026 in

•Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter
55.994-56.008 mm
2.2045-2.2050 in

Cylinder Head

•Cylinder Head Height/Thickness - measured from cylinder head deck to the cam cover sealing surface
128.65 mm
5.06 in

•Surface Flatness - Block Deck - Longitude
0.050 mm
0.002 in

•Surface Flatness - Block Deck - Overall
0.1 mm
0.004 in

•Surface Flatness - Block Deck - Transverse
0.030 mm
0.0012 in

•Valve Guide Bore - Exhaust
6.000-6.012 mm
0.2362-0.2367 in

•Valve Guide Bore - Intake
6.000-6.012 mm
0.2362-0.2367 in

•Valve Lifter Bore Diameter - Stationary Lash Adjusters
12.013-12.037 mm
0.4730-0.4739 in

Lubrication System

•Oil Pressure - Minimum - @1000 RPM @ 90°C (194°F)
206.84-482.63 kPa
30-70 psi

•Oil Capacity - with Filter
5.7L
6 quarts

Piston Rings

•Piston Ring End Gap - First Compression Ring
0.20-0.40 mm
0.008-0.016 in

•Piston Ring End Gap - Second Compression Ring
0.35-0.55 mm
0.014-0.022 in

•Piston Ring End Gap - Oil Control Ring - Rails
0.25-0.76 mm
0.010-0.030 in

•Piston Ring to Groove Clearance - First Compression Ring
0.04-0.08 mm
0.0015-0.0031 in

•Piston Ring to Groove Clearance - Second Compression Ring
0.030-0.069 mm
0.0012-0.0027 in

•Piston Ring to Groove Clearance - Oil Control Ring
0.090-0.106 mm
0.0035-0.0042 in

•Piston Ring Thickness - First Compression Ring
1.170-1.190 mm
0.0461-0.0469 in

•Piston Ring Thickness - Second Compression Ring
1.471-1.490 mm
0.0579-0.0587 in

•Piston Ring Thickness - Oil Control Ring - Rail - Maximum
0.43 mm
0.0169 in

•Piston Ring Thickness - Oil Control Ring - Spacer
1.574-1.651 mm
0.0620-0.0650 in

Pistons and Pins

•Pin - Piston Pin Clearance to Connecting Rod Bore
0.007-0.026 mm
0.0003-0.0010 in

•Pin - Piston Pin Clearance to Piston Pin Bore
0.002-0.012 mm
0.0001-0.0005 in

•Pin - Piston Pin Diameter
19.995-20.000 mm
0.7872-0.7874 in

•Pin - Piston Pin End Play
0.19-1.16 mm
0.0075-0.0461 in

•Piston - Piston Diameter - @14.5 mm up
85.967-85.982 mm
3.3845-3.3851 in

•Piston - Piston Pin Bore Diameter
23.005-23.010 mm
0.9057-0.9059 in

•Piston - Piston Ring Grove Width - Top
1.23-1.25 mm
0.0484-0.0492 in

•Piston - Piston Ring Grove Width - Second
1.52-1.54 mm
0.0598-0.0606 in

•Piston - Piston Ring Grove Width - Oil Control
2.52-2.54 mm
0.0992-0.1000 in

•Piston - Piston To Bore Clearance
0.010-0.041 mm
0.0004-0.0016 in

Valve System

•Valves - Valve Face Runout - Maximum
0.04 mm
0.0016 in

•Valves - Valve Seat Runout - Maximum
0.05 mm
0.0020 in

•Valves - Valve Stem Diameter - Exhaust
5.935-5.950 mm
0.2337-0.2343 in

•Valves - Valve Stem Diameter - Intake
5.955-5.970 mm
0.2344-0.2355 in

•Valves - Valve Stem to Guide Clearance - Exhaust
0.050-0.077 mm
0.0020-0.0026 in

•Valves - Valve Stem to Guide Clearance - Intake
0.030-0.057 mm
0.0012-0.0022 in

•Valve Lifters - Valve Lifter Diameter - Stationary Lash Adjuster
11.986-12.000 mm
0.0005-0.0020 in

•Valve Lifters - Valve Lifter-to-Bore Clearance - Stationary Lash Adjuster
0.013-0.051 mm
3.2210-3.2299 in

•Valve Springs - Valve Spring Load - Closed - @32.5 mm
245.0-271.0 N. - Eng Spec.

•Valve Springs - Valve Spring Load - Open - @32.5 mm
525.0-575.0 N. - Eng Spec.

 

Wow thanks for the info and all the specs. To me there seems to be a lot of clearance in these engines...I'm use to clearances of less than .0005 on every surfaces of a lot of the newer CAT engines...well in 30min I took the sc off the intake mani off valve cover and getting ready to drain the oil and coolent to and drop the exhaust and timing chain then pull the head

 

Ok well got it all apart..
Heres wat happened..
Cracked the piston on the out side of #4..
Grooved the cylinder..
So now I'm gona bring some measuring tools home and check out the rest of them. I'm hoping to just put a new sleeve in it and babe it till tax season

 

the clearances are pretty standard for a gasoline engine but the wear limits arent