sub'd

 

information for wrong (old style) part.
takes me 5 minutes to put new style upgraded one on, including opening and closing hood.

 

Add me to the list of "lucky" ones i swapped mine out with the valve cover on and haven't had any problems.

 

Im not trying to troll but this is from GM. I also know that there is an updated tensioner out. I believe this is for the old one.



1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection .

2. Remove the camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement .

3. Remove the timing chain tensioner.

4. Remove the seal from the tensioner.


Installation Procedure


1. Inspect the timing chain tensioner. If the timing chain tensioner, O-ring seal, or washer is damaged, replace the timing chain tensioner or O-ring seal as applicable.

2. Measure the timing chain tensioner assembly from end to end. If the timing chain tensioner is to be replaced, a new tensioner should be supplied in the fully compressed non-active state. A tensioner in the compressed state will measure 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. A tensioner in the active state will measure 85 mm (3.35 in) (a) from end to end.

3. If the timing chain tensioner is not in the compressed state, perform the following steps:

3.1 Remove the piston assembly from the body of the timing chain tensioner by pulling it out.

3.2 Install the J 45027-2 (2) into a vise.

3.3 Install the notch end of the piston assembly into the J 45027-2 (2).

3.4 Using the J 45027-1 (1), turn the ratchet cylinder into the piston.

4. Inspect the bore of the tensioner body for dirt, debris, and damage. If any damage appears, replace the tensioner. Clean dirt or debris out with a lint-free cloth.

5. Install the compressed piston assembly back into the timing chain tensioner body until it stops at the bottom of the bore. Do not compress the piston assembly against the bottom of the bore. If the piston assembly is compressed against the bottom of the bore, it will activate the tensioner, which will then need to be reset again.

6. At this point the tensioner should measure approximately 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. If the tensioner does not read 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end, repeat steps 3–5.

7. Inspect to ensure all dirt and debris is removed from the timing chain tensioner threaded hole in the cylinder head.

Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution .

Note: Ensure the timing chain tensioner seal is centered throughout the torque procedure to eliminate the possibility of an oil leak.

8. Install the timing chain tensioner assembly. Tighten the timing chain tensioner to 75 Nˇm (55 lb ft).

9. The timing chain tensioner is released by compressing the tensioner 2 mm (0.079 in) which will release the locking mechanism in the ratchet. To release the timing chain tensioner, use a suitable tool with a rubber tip on the end. Feed the tool down through the cam drive chest to rest on the cam chain. Then give a sharp jolt diagonally downwards to release the tensioner.

10. Install the camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement .

11. Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection .

 

I know took me about 5 minutes as well. People get so confused bc they read the instructions for the old style tensioner. Maybe people that had problems installing a new tensioner didn't have the most up to date one. There is no spring in the new one to set.

 

My intercepter threw code p0017 .. Which I believe leads to this.... And I hear ticking on start-up and for a couple of mins while driving from start-up...

 

Interesting, bought one from CED a month back and it has a spring and needed to be set.

 

i bought a new up to date tensioner from CEd a few months back, noise went away, then came back, but you can only hear it if the car was recently started and drove for like 1-2 miles, then idles. noise goes away after it is driven any longer and only comes back if the car sits for a few hours. no codes, so ill perfoamnce. the noise is simular the one i had before the tensioner repalced, but it is not as loud. im thinking its just a cobalt thing? lol idk

 

The new style ones do have a spring. If you remove the snap ring this is what is in the pin.

 

Thats the one I got, I set it, installed it and struck a blow against the guide and the chain firmed right up.

 

When you say you struck a blow to it, are you talking about on the 32mm nut part of it?

 

Exactly. Did mine today, the right way.

 

im not sure if its just the disassembled view, but this appears to be the old style tensioner which requires the jolt to the chain guide. the new style tensioner doesn't require a jolt to the guide. it's not the installation of the new style tensioner that can cause issues, but the removal of the tensioner without keeping tension on the chain.

 

That is the dis-assembled view. I took my new one apart and it looks just like that. I dont believable you "have" to set it but you can.

 

Yeah.... I'm one of those guys who had to change his intake valves... But my ticking noise was created because the bolt in the head on the front-upper most chain guide had come lose and fallen out ( dont ask me how ) and the guide kept moving all over the place bouncing off the head and block.

 

yes I have seen that; its frugly. Glad you found it before more damage was done.