top end = fail
This has been a problem for a couple months now and I can't figure out why. Nobody I know can figure out exactly why..
Anything after 2nd gear @ WOT is slow as hell. I'm on GM stg2 right now & 2.9" pulley... Intake.. exhaust.. blah blah.. Ran very strong a couple months ago and now my top end went to s***. Horribly.
I'm just wondering if anyone has ever seemed to have the same problem? Heard of the problem? Maybe I can relate to some of you? What was the problem?
I'm just clueless about what it could be. Anyone who's got a reasonable idea as to what this could be go ahead and gimme your input. Maybe I can gain a better idea of what could potentially be wrong. Thanks.
Anything after 2nd gear @ WOT is slow as hell. I'm on GM stg2 right now & 2.9" pulley... Intake.. exhaust.. blah blah.. Ran very strong a couple months ago and now my top end went to s***. Horribly.
I'm just wondering if anyone has ever seemed to have the same problem? Heard of the problem? Maybe I can relate to some of you? What was the problem?
I'm just clueless about what it could be. Anyone who's got a reasonable idea as to what this could be go ahead and gimme your input. Maybe I can gain a better idea of what could potentially be wrong. Thanks.
My trap speed has probably decreased around 7-9mph based on how bad it is.. The car is damn near as slow as stock.
Sounds to me like there could be a boost leak?
check your spark plugs/ injectors?
Bring it back to the dealership that you got it installed at or whatever and ask them to look at it and see if they can figure out the problem, I imagine its covered under warranty so you should be all set there.
Think I have to put the 3.0 on instead of the 2.9 before taking it in? Because that would be a bitch. And what should I tell the dealership exactly?
Wouldn't I have had the problem during the short time I had it in if that had something to do with it? Or what do you think it could be that is causing this right now..
Last edited by ChriSS/SC; Dec 16, 2009 at 07:02 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
They will know your tuned .. The PCM keeps track if number of reflashes
Could be a number of things ....
Could be a number of things ....
Last edited by SlowBalt_06; Dec 16, 2009 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
They've never said anything about being tuned. I reflash back to stage 2 before going every time..
Assuming they wont make a problem out of that what can I tell the dealership to check on?
Assuming they wont make a problem out of that what can I tell the dealership to check on?
i'd recommend a compression test to make sure the rings aren't going bad. -- tell the stealerhsip that a local mechanic/friend recommended a compression test, but his tester was broken and couldn't do it
It will heatsoak BAD. And can cause a drop in speed that substantial as IAT2's go high. I wouldn't doubt for a minute that your IAT2's touch 200 if not higher.
That would cause noticeable drop in boost right? About 10 psi if he continued the abuse? something to look for OP. Log IAT's too.
Compression test would be good to know, but needed? He said anything after 2nd WOT, I would think it would happen throughout every gear.
Was this problem happening with the nitrous, not too clear about? If it wasnt then that could be another sign it was heatsoak.
Compression test would be good to know, but needed? He said anything after 2nd WOT, I would think it would happen throughout every gear.
Was this problem happening with the nitrous, not too clear about? If it wasnt then that could be another sign it was heatsoak.
Joined: 08-27-07
Posts: 21,561
Likes: 4
From: Jacksonville, FL
I had to replace mine somewhere in the 50k to 60k range.
List of stuff to check from easiest to hardest before u go to the dealer. Why woould it be a bitch to go back to a 3"? did u change the hub too? I can do a pulley change in 5-10 mins with an axe head and allen key.
Check coolant level. If none seen then refill with engine running to get air out and check after next drive of 20+ mins. If seen is coolant swishing around with engine running?
log iat2 temps if going to 150+ in anything but 2+ 2-4 gear pulls in a row then ur pump is bad. temps will not drop fast if pump is broken.
do a log of idc, kr, iat1, iat2
Check coolant level. If none seen then refill with engine running to get air out and check after next drive of 20+ mins. If seen is coolant swishing around with engine running?
log iat2 temps if going to 150+ in anything but 2+ 2-4 gear pulls in a row then ur pump is bad. temps will not drop fast if pump is broken.
do a log of idc, kr, iat1, iat2
I won't ever need one... ever again.
Meh... its a Bosch part. Both GM and Ford get the same pump from Bosch... but it IS a lot less expensive to buy the Ford Racing version of it.
Meh... its a Bosch part. Both GM and Ford get the same pump from Bosch... but it IS a lot less expensive to buy the Ford Racing version of it.
Joined: 08-27-07
Posts: 21,561
Likes: 4
From: Jacksonville, FL
What are your current miles? What tune do you run usually? What kind of boost do you see and do you notice a difference? What are some maintenance things you have done, like fuel filter, seafoam, anything engine necessity related.




