when you twin charge to you set the turbo and supercharger at the same number psi ,and do you need two boost gauges , and has any one got some numbers on the hp and torque after you have done this please let me know thank you

bump for some help

 

no, you can't set both supercharger and turbo to the same psi

there's an Ion redline that made the setup

M62 supercharger with 3.8 pulley and GT3071 turbo@ 5 psi.

Overall car yield 332WHP@ 20psi

 

so you have to set the turbo at less boost then the super charger , right now i have the stock pully on my ion

 

Yes, here's the video

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...C296E45939.htm

Actually he used a GT3076.

Equations

Total pressure = [absolute pressure + turbo boost (psi)] * PR (pressure ratio of sc) = Boost pressure (boost you see @ gauge) - absolute pressure


Ex.

Total pressure = [14.7 psi + 4 psi]* 2 = 37.4@vaccum

boost gauge pressure = Total pressure - absolute pressure = 37.4 psi -14.7 psi = 22.7 psi

A PR of 2 I think can not be achieved with the stock pulley, it needs to be larger, such as the 3.8".

If you used the stock pulley, the turbo psi should be at 3 psi.

Boost gauge pressure (with turbo @ 3 psi) = 20.7

I doing research with this, I'm going with this setup soon. I will be using the stock pulley, and I'm looking for a turbo, and doing calculations, also, I will switched to 60's and as you see in my sig, I have a return-style fuel system, which will work better either if I use both turbo and supercharger, or turbo alone.

 

how hard is the return style fuel , is it expensive

 

Return-style fuel system, depends what is expensive for you

Walbro GSS342 - $125
Aeromotive regulator - $155
Fittings and fuel lines - $120
Labor - depends
Gasoline filter - $68 (1 input, 1 output)

 

that isnt to bad but where should i get the work done

 

I was hoping to start the project on december, but right now I need brake pads

Any performance shop with experienced mechanics. Get a quote first.

 

oh cool how much was yours

 

What is the advantage to a a return style fuel system? What does it do? I just have not heard of it before.

 

Still I haven't start the project. Hopefully, after getting the brake pads.

Why would you convert to a Return Fuel System? To raise pressure for a turbo application?

To prevent starvation of the fuel injectors to the farthest of the fuel rail where the fuel lines enter. On a return fuel system, there is a constant fuel pressure inside the rail which means that the fuel injectors are basically getting a equal amount of fuel. On a return-less fuel system, the farthest injectors might not get as much fuel as say the closer ones would.

This can directly affect the performance of that one cylinder (I believe #4). A wideband would show your a/f overall, so if you richen, you'd be richening your total a/f but that doesn't mean that #4 injector would be getting the equal amount of fuel and it could cause that one cylinder to detonate from being lean.

The SRT-4 guys do this change when they are looking into a big horsepower application (I believe they suggest anything over 400 HP that you do this).

Post taken from NJHK

 

Interesting... anyone have more info on the return fuel system...maybe a how-to

 

a how to would be great

 

I can write a process and soon a How to, here goes.

Parts needed
1. Walbro GSS342 - long than stock fuel pump
2. Aeromotive A1000-6 Part# 13109 regulates from 30-70psi
3. Fuel lines (20 -25ft)
4. fittings

Step 1
Take out the tank. Several bolts need to be unscrewed. Try to have an almost empty tank. It'll weight less.

Step 2
Take out the module inside the tank. Be careful to take out the cap where the fuel pump is located. It has like 4 clips. Use a philips screw driver.

Step 3
Take the fuel pump out. Take out the in-tank regulator.

Step 4
Insert Walbro GSS342. Warning, this fuel pump does not fit in the location where to stock pump is located. My mechanic tied firmly with 3 straps.

Step 5
Replace one of the fuel lines that goes into the tank with a "breeder" fuel line. This one goes from the tank to the bottom part of the regulator. You gotta be extremely careful here, try not to break the plastic gas input.

Step 6
Installed regulator. You'll see how mine is installed tomorrow.

Step 7
Here you got two choices. Either buy a 2002 Ecotec fuel rail, which is already tapped, or tapped the stock fuel rail, that's what I did. Connect a fuel line from the side of the regulator to where the fuel rail is tapped. You'll know where to tapped because the fuel rail the LSJ uses is the same as the cavalier except the LSJ's is blocked. Drill and connect fitting.

Step 8 Verify for leaks and connect vacuum hose. You have to get a T, cut one of the vacuum lines and install.

Step 9 Start the car. Do not start it right way. Wait until the pump fills the fuel line. You'll here a small whine and when the fuel pump stops. Remember, you have to do this everytime you start the car. The regulator does not hold gas in the lines like the intank regulator.

Step 10 Use a wideband to setup the fuel pressure. Set the pressure. Try to set it for 40-41 psi. At vacuum should be 50-51psi.

I'll have photos tomorrow.

 

Is there a benefit to the return system? Any gain?

 

I know my car runs better with the system installed. The first time I dyno made 224WHP without the fujita CAI and return-system. After that, the second dyno @4th gear, 235 WHP with the fujita CAI and better injector duty cycle, AFR @ 10.8 right now. My car was lean, and was gas tuned at the dyno with the AEM regulator. So I can say yes, you should gain something.

 

could you take a pic of your fuel set up so i can have some thing to go off of cause right now im quite lost

 

Estimated cost? Also, on step nine do you mean turn the key to run but do not start it right away?

 

That right there will make me not wanna do the conversion.

 

so the few extra seconds of waiting for the fuel pump to prime are not worth the number 4 cylinder not being starved?

 

Wheres the proof that our returnless fuel system is the cause of the number 4 cylinder starvation?

 

Yes, turn the key but do not start it. Labor, as I said, depends on the performance shop you choose. That's why I said get a quote first.

going to buy now batteries, camera is dead.

Right its annoying. I'm looking to a solution for that problem. Maybe using the same type of in-tank valve to hold the gas in the line. I'm still looking

Some photos




















I forgot to mention that you need to change the gasoline filter. The stock is useless after the conversion. You'll need a 1 input, 1 output gas filter. You should pay attention to the flow direction. It cost me $68.

 

why did you tap into the fuel line into the rail like that

 

Wow!!Thats a nice clean install.

 

did you have to run lines all the way to the fuel tank