Question... when you have full coverage insurance and your engine blows, dont they swap that s**t for you?

 

Insurance has nothing to do with it.

If that was the case, there wouldn't be warranties.

 

really.. i mean if you crash your car they fix it for you, you just put in a claim. how about taking your blown engine car and pushing it off the cliff lol.. so that way you can get an insurance check HAHA!

 

That would be insurance fraud and when they tear apart the engine to find a blown engine that has no significants with an accident, they would probalby report you too. But this is assuming they don't just take out the motor and put in a new one.

 

take a step back dude it was a joke lol.

 

I know it was

:P

 

An engine does NOT have to be observed as "overheating" to fail due to heat. Pretty much every engine built has a "favorite" piston/cylinder for root mechanical failure.Generally there is almost always thermal dissapation differences from cylinder to cylinder due to a myriad of design factors from intake and exhaust design to coolant direction/flow variations. The Ecotec "likes" to fail #4 no different than a BBC prefers to fail #7 or #8 or the Duramax #1 or 2.The "last-in-line" for coolant flow often tends to be the common denominator. But not always- case in point cyls 3 and 5 failures on overboosted 3800 SC.

It's certainly not due to some "kink" in the fuel rail. Although I agree with you Witt that too rich can be just as destructive as too lean.
WopOnTour

 

What is your opinion of a pressure difference across the rail?

I'm leaning back towards a fueling issue. I can successfully reproduce the backfire that happens when guys are nuking that number 4 piston land. It seems to come in at anything leaner than an overall a/f ratio of 11.7. At 11.5 it will only do it to me in 2nd gear and anything richer it completely goes away. It basically feels like hitting the fuel cut rev limiter but it happens near 6800rpm. When WSFrazier nuked number 4, I was logging at the time and it experienced this same effect and ran a 11.77-1 when it happened. The video of Blown4Banger nuking number 4 shows the same.

I'm not running as small of a pulley as these guys were which seems to be preventing any actual damage from occuring but I'm still hitting the same backfire/fuel cut.

 

Hey Witt
Go to CHAT
Wop

 

Interesting opinion on it. I would agree with it whole heartedly except perhaps the rich causing damage. what were discussing is running at the same AFR as stock or a little leaner than stock. how is that damaging if GM will warrantee for 100,000 miles?

Just curious of those who blew up an engine, who had piston protection turned off.

 

I think that explains it.... fuel pressure can only overcome so much before restriction comes in to play.

 

Go to chat

 

well..i just got home and im' sure i missed the 'chat'. Can someone fill me in on what was discussed??

Nate

 

Nothing, some 2.2L guy wanted to buy my wing

 

so what do you guys think.
I seriously feel like it is a fueling issue, as my #4 spark plug is completely eroded away.

THat being said, I know that some of the race teams feed their fuel rail with 2 lines, one over injector 2, and the other at the #4 end of the rail.

 

Thats a return fuel system. My spark plugs looks almost all the same, #4 was a little bit lean, but not much leaner than the other 3.

 

http://www.agpturbo.com/product.php?...cat=273&page=1

Theres a fuel return system for the srt-4. Doing the pdf file of the magazine install/explanation. Email me at c22_t@hotmail.com for the pdf file of it.

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories...boostapump.htm

Couldn't we just use that to boost up the pressure to overcome the 'possible' drop in pressure. (have a fuel guage hooked up) Rescale injectors to knew fuel pressure (might not even need 60lbs then?).

I'm not running 60lbs yet, just getting use to stage 2 setup. But somebody should install a mech fuel guage and just hook it to the windshield to see if there is a drop in pressure. They aren't that much and that way it can be removed and just cap the tapped hole at the end.

Nate

 

I have hit that "gost" limiter/back fire in the past as well.

its happened at a few different AFR's.....if i'm at 12.0 or a touch leaner its not there or when i'm richer 11.5 and under its, not there....

WOP/ anybody....any idea whats causing this issue or why this AFR area has this issue?

 

i popped mine, im guessing cylinder 4, she sounds like a WRX on crack. it also popped the dipstick tube up and sprayed oil everywhere. how hard was it to get the motor out of these things? and are our pistons floating pins or pressed pins? and lets pray my cylinder wall isnt screwed up! my mods are
2.7 pulley 60lb injectors,xtc intake 3 inch magnaflow exhaust, and a 75 wet shot. the car was dipping down to 10.2:1 A/F ratio on spray and 11.xxx off the bottle at WOT

 

I see a few trends here....

Tunes
60 lb injectors
2.6 inch pulleys

Maybe these are contributing to the problem?


Anyway, I am on the stock stage 2 Tune, w/ 2.8 inch pulley, and havent had any problems. Have had stage 2 and 2.8 for atleast the last 15,000 miles. Have 25,000 miles on my 06. Hit the track up quite a bit, and WOT quite often as well.

 

popped mine about 3 or 4 months ago. was cyl #4 just like everybody else. busted parts of the ring land right off.

to answer a few of the questions in this thread:
-was running a 2.7" pully w/ 60# injectors

-"proffesionaly" tuned

-piston protection was off(i didnt know this was a common thing to do, but its back on now above 6800rpms iirc)

-car never sounded like a wrx, and there was really no noticible power loss down low. the car still felt fast and pulled hard... till the dipstick started popping out and puking a few quarts of oil at a time.


It seems like its the cars running a 2.7" or smaller pully. I think its a combo of too much boost, fueling issues/fuel rail issues, and heat. not only do the smaller pullys make ALOT more heat, but the oil cooler is right next to cylinder four, maybe thats having an effect temps???? I dont know, all i do know is that it would be awsome if we could figure this whole cyl 4 issue figured out before i blow it up again.

 

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mine looked something like that but not as extreme

 

mine did too also not that extreme no melting

 

this is what is happening to me exactly these days, 65-6800 rpm, boom, i hit the "rev limiter" lol, i quickly looked at my LC-1, read 13.1 a/f, ive babied since and we are gonna richen it up to a proper a/f tomorrow...
my question is what is the ideal a/f with my setup?, 60 pounders 2.7, gmpp manifold/sport exhaust, dp with magnaflow highlow cat, injen cold air.
note the car runs fine, no "wrx", i just wanna prevent any sort of possible damage, i was dyno tuned, this time we are making the proper adjustments for the streets.

 

mine looked alot like that as well, but slightly more severe, deff with some melting... actually alot of melting LOL, ill see if i can find some pics i took.