I remember people talking about using the windsheild washer fluid tank as an extra coolant tank a while back. I just did mounted an extra tank i got from the junkyard but i think it looks too ghetto so im gonna try and do the washer fluid method. Just trying to get an update to see if anyone has done it yet or anyones opinions if it will work or not...

 

too low

 

its not too low..just an odd shape. the only fill point is slightly lower than the existing engine coolant fill tank. I would have to say though, a higher tank is probably better, since the washer fluid reservoir would need to be filled pretty high

 

if you have option b and your sig says yes, then re-read the option B instructions and then you may understand why the ww bottle wont help you much at all, unless you sealed it and integrated it into the circuit leaving option B in place. But if you don't have a real option B with an 040 restrictor then thats all bs it don't work right.

 

ok. I don't understand why it is too low. can you explain why a higher tank is needed. thanks

 

Liquid runs to the lowest spot. so if your washer fluild is lower then the radiator. liquid wont be running through the whole system.

I belive that is why

 

But the pump is forcing the coolant through the system. Is it not enough pressure or what?

 

air goes to the highest point, if your tank is lower than everything else the air wont bleed out of the system. also you need a tank with a pressure cap, a cooling system needs to be pressureized.

 

why does it need to be pressurized? If there isn't any air in the system with a bleeder hose or hole...what does a pressurized cap do?

 

Sooooo how much presure do you guys think the washer bottle can hold before it splits its seams? I'm gonna guess less then what the coolent system can produce.

 

thing is you need a pressureized cap that will screw onto the bottle. the washer tank doesnt have any threads on it. the stock cap will pop off at nothing.

 

so uhhhhh. what are you gonna wash your windows with?

 

The poor people that come up trying to wash your windows

I don't think the system's pessure is as strong as your making it seem especially if you have a bleeder hose on the H/E...

 

well think about this: the bleeder hose has nothing to do with the system pressure. It bleeds air so the coolant can do its job transferring heat from the laminova fins to the coolant and then radiate the heat from coolant to the air from the h/e, and if there is air in the coolant this heat cannot transfer effectively. The stock T coolant reservoir in the LSJ can pop the cap; it is rated I think for 5 psi... the h/e pump should produce 5 gpm flow...there is pressure. I think whatever, the ww bottle is a non starter, but go ahead and spend an awful lot of your time and some money proving us wrong and employing the homeless people to clean your windshield....and if it doesnt work, ( the most probable outcome) we can all say "we told you so"...

 

uhm yeah this is a really bad idea. Your going to have to take out the entire coolant bottle, tap it with 3/4 inch nipples and put it back in while trying to find a way to plum it through the wheel well. Further more like stated before, the coolant system runs under pressure. No way in hell that lid is going to be able to contain the pressure, the cap will pop off and coolant will flow out.

I think the OP is getting Meth injection confused with the IC coolant system. People have used the washer fluid bottle to supply meth injection, but not as a coolant resevoir for the intercooler system.

 

Ok thanks for the info guys...just wanna get everything straight

 

hatrickstu's mod doesn't have a pressurized cap. It's not enough pressure to pop the cap I'd assume. I did an idiotic thing with my added coolant tank tapping it at the top when I should've tapped it at the bottom and I don't think there's enough flow in the system to push coolant from the manifold to the tank so it may sit there or backflow (I haven't verified). Looks like I'm adding another pump to the system or retapping it. But the coolant from the tank sits at like 80 degrees, it never even get's warm. I'll figure something out.

 

i thought the OP intended to use it inline in the circuit and not as an overflow/filler

BTW, i dont think pressure caps are required for our cooling systems....we have bleeder lines on both the opt B tank (towards the back) and on the option A filler (on side)...so its not an air tight pressurized system

 

I was also thinking about hatrickstu's mod which does not involve a pressurized cap...

 

That's true but the pressure does build in those tanks even with the bleeder. Trust me on that.

 

...how would pressure build? for pressure to build, you would need a closed sealed system, which our cooling systems are not..

 

Open the cap when it's hot. See where the coolant goes. That's called pressure.

 

Besides the pressure being an issue...There is no way for the WW resevoir to work???

 

sure, you could make it work.

should you? no. it's not worth it. it's not engineered to be what you want it to be, and will not be effective or efficient. just stick with the second resevoir however "ghetto" it may look. at least it'll work.

 

It'll work. But you'd probably need to add another inline pump post outlet depending on how you route it. If you route it pre-manifold there are pumps that can push 4 feet which should work. Is it worth it? Maybe.