Hey i have a 2006 Cobalt SS/SC with the following modifications, just looking for some opinions on what i should be looking to do next.
Car is not a daily driver, but is my only car, rarely winter driven.

Current Mods:
GM Stage 2, GMPP Exhaust
Airbox Mod with K&N
Option B Cooling
Powell Engine Mounts
Aeroforce & Wideband
HSD Coilovers
MRZ Strut Bar
Powell Hardcore Bar & Tow Hook
Drilled & Slotted Rotors with Ceramic Brake Pads
Shitty worn tires on ss/sc rims (replace next year?)

Exterior, Sound System etc... I all happy with, just need an orange wingless trunk

Let me know what you guys think I am missing or a possible path to go, I have a GMPP clutch sitting around but don't feel like replacing for another year or so

 

Get some 60# injectors and a tvs with a 3.0-2.9 pulley
Then get ur self a lonhtube header.
Get tuned
Think that would be very safe setup.

 

1) transmission mounts

2) ditch the strut bar. it's only adding weight. since the strut towers are mounted to the firewall, the strut bar gives no additional rigidity.

3) ditch the ceramic pads and drilled rotors. drilled rotors will crack and are only for bling. slotted or plain is fine. ceramic pads will eat up rotors like crazy, and although they don't fade as much, they provide poor performance. go with semi-metallic. Hawk hps pads are great.

4) replace the clutch when you have the time. It won't last long on that setup.

5) Get ss/tc rims (wider) and 235 tires

 

80# injects, 2.8" pulley, run e85 or get a meth kit and run that on a 2.8'

 

this, but you wont need 80's unless you do e85. if you do meth you can use 50's or 60's

 

This with E85, build motor and put a 150 shot on.

 

heres what happens when you go E85

 

ha ha ha

 

So Engine - bigger injectors, smaller pully, maybe CAI header downpipe... tune, maybe meth...

Rest of car, wider rims & tires, clutch and brakes in the next year or so?

Think i need to do the tires & rims soon and i guess clutch too if I'm going to be getting more power, already spinning in first and second all the time, is some sand/gravel on the roads still though i guess.

How much of a difference will the change in width from the 7' ss/sc rims to 7.5' tc make? wondering if i should go wider or just save the money.
Already have my ss/sc rims painted gloss black with orange metallic flake and really like them

 

you should read the stickies and use the search button for your next mods

 

Already read all the stickies and used search, I know i have very few posts but I'm by no means new to the cobalt community or ss.net. just looking for opinions more closely based to my exact set up I already have, not just being one of those lazy posters who doesn't do any research

 

I run 235 40 18 on my lsj stock wheels with no problems I wouldn't go to much more than that though.

 

Do cooling mods FIRST!!


Dual pass
Phenolic spacer
Have a spare pump
2nd HE or upgraded


Otherwise all the other mods are wasted in warm weather and engine might go BOOM.

As me how I know.....

Oh and do the clutch as said earlier. I am upgrading to LNF kit. Cooling mods going in soon.


I am running 2.8 pulley with 2nd HE and Option B on 60's. Still not enough cooling on hot days.

 

If you want a dual pass let me know I can hook you up

 

honestly for the amount on $ you'll put into it its not worth messing with it, i would leave it alone unless you dont care to spend a thousand dollars for maybe 20-30 hp if its worth it than yes 50, or 60 injectors as well as a 2.8 pulley and maybe meth, id stay away from it if possible if its an ED drive, but also cooling mods as stated if you run it a lot if not your option b should be fine with a bigger front mount. a tvs is great but why spend 2500 on it when you could save a little more and just do a turbo swap?? its all about what you want and what makes you happy

 

Might just end up doing clutch, tires, then maybe a ZZP shipment with a 2nd HE, dual pass, CAI and maybe downpipe. Not sure if i want to get into the whole tuning business and reliability issues

 

I did the downpipe because I broke mine while installing the header. There is definitely some point to keeping it close to stock and improving things that were weak.

If your IAT2 are getting high and not recovering and your going to do a dual pass the spacer is not much more and since your in there anyway.....

I know I have gained plenty of power over what I had when I bought the car (dyno'ed at 242 WHP with bad injectors since modifying) but the cars run pretty good just a basic tune.

I also added rotated mounts and Ingalls to reduce wheel hop. Those items were easy to install and quite inexpensive. (bought from the forum).

 

Ya i have powell engine mounts and all the wheel hop is gone.

I follow IAT2 on my aeroforce, what exactly is too high though and what kind of recovery should i be expecting.

I'll look into the spacer too, makes sense.

 

235' tires fit on stock ss/sc rims
E85 will get you more power with minimal cost.

As some have said anything more than that is going to cost a lot... ask me why I know. Also as you upgrade more you run into reliability. Its fun but I sometimes wish I had stayed where I was.

 

just buy 80s no point is upgrading again down the road from 60s if u go tvs or e85.

 

IAT's on mine with a 2.8 start climbing into the mid 100's on a pull on a 90 degree day (yes we get those some days). It takes a long time to recover like 10 minutes of cruising to get under 100 again. (I am doing this from memory last summer) Next pull I am right up there again.

I mentioned an extra pump because when they go your basically hosed until you can get one and replace it. of course you can tap it with a hammer to get it 'unstuck' but that is often unreliable.

The engine will start to pull timing and the car just doesn't feel as 'crisp' on the throttle. Kind of what I describe as a mushy feel.

In winter the car always feels quick. Cool air = More Power

So I am going everything I can to keep those IAT2's down and recover quickly.

I have read a lot of posts on the benefits of low IAT2's.


People racing wanting to use all sorts of methods to get the temps down as close to IAT1 as possible.

 

I've seen 180 IAT2 when I had no pump on my 2.6

 

damn lol, I hit 160 with my 2.7 but that was air in the system.

 

Yeah I was logging, had a leak in my system but it was about 30-40 degrees so I just pulled the fuse. I guess that 2.6 makes a little heat

 

Let me know what you guys think i should and shouldn't get from this list, can afford most but probably not all.All from the ZZP website.

ZZP 3' CAI - 199
dual pass - 119
intake spacer - 99
smaller pulley - 59 (2.8/2.9?)
fuel & oil filter - cheap
spark plugs - cheap
header/dp - 350
Injectors (60) -159

Also will i need to be tuned after this or will my stage 2 tune be fine? or should i look for a stage 3 pcm? or custom.