o3nisoaso3

maf n map sensors are brand new

spark plugs are gapped properly, getting great spark from them. TB does clack open n closed tryin to hold idle... fuel pressure is constant. ecm shows it is positive over the constant so thats why i searched for a vacuum leak but there were none, and actually with evap line disconnected it idles much better but still doesnt idle well


i am going to drain the fuel and change fuel filter, do a compression and leak down test soon this week. fuel has been in car since november but i did have sta-bil in it so idk why it would be bad but maybe

06_ion2

i had fuel sit in my car for a full year without being started and it fired rite up.

o3nisoaso3

did you have sta-bil in it? im gonna atleast get a new fuel filter in case it is somewhat bad n junked up cuz i didnt have much sta-bil in it and wasnt expecting it to be sittin so long. and im gonna do the compression and leak down tests to see how that checks out. after that i guess if it aint runnin im pullin the motor back out. and mind you the knock sensor is still going off and my car is running rich

so... so far:

Maf and Map sensors - Brand new, installed right
Vacuum Lines - Checked, no leaks
Spark Plugs - New stockers, getting a good spark @ .36 gap (i think)
Injectors - Brand new
TB - Brand new from dealer
Gas/Filter - Sittin in tank since Oct. (needs checked)
Compression/Leak Down Test - Gettin done this week

ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???

06_ion2

i went overseas 11 months it sat no stablelizer wasnt even started once whial i was gone.

you could check the coil packs? your getting spark rite?

o3nisoaso3

yes, i plugged in plugs to coil pack with injectors disconnected and checked them and had spark good spark on all four. idk what it is and it is really getting frustrating. I have checked everything else except for fuel and piston rings but that wouldnt affect idle as much as a problem i have. plus it takes really long to come down from revs. like if i rev 3.5-4K it comes down really slow until about 1800 then just falls to 500 bounces up to 1500 then stalls

I wish I could figure this out

06_ion2

it honestly seems like its your maf tho. have you checked voltage on it? any codes at all? seems wierd.. leakdown test?

unplug your connectors and replug them all in?

o3nisoaso3

well i was gettin low/high voltage codes for a few different sensors but that was cuz i unplugged them in while car was on but i disconnected battery then hooked everything up, reconnected battery, changed the ECT scaler a lil on the tune and started back up and had no codes but still wouldnt idle, that was last i did with car. i will check voltages to sensors tomorrow while im checking everything else

and thanks for any and all info from you guys that are helping

o3nisoaso3

anybody able to help?

alanoo

Hum, looks very much like the issue I got when switching from the 2.2 TB to the 2.4 TB on my standalone

Are you using a 2.4 TB ?
The PID regulation on these is different, as soon as I wanted to idle, it went down to ~500, but the standalone can regulate much more than the OE ECU so it then went back at 1000 rpm and was able to regulate from here....

Could you try with another TB (a stock 2.2 one I mean) ? The PID of the 2.4 DBW throttle body is much different than the one from the 2.2 and LSJ TB (those two ones are pretty similar), I won't be surprised this is the source of your problem

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

shouldnt be the tb, i am running almost the same mods as far as power making and have a 2.4 tb and it runs just fine

o3nisoaso3

yes i am using the LE5 TB and I can switch to the L61 TB but costs in new tunes with start to add up, I was going to try to tune with stock IM and TB also but im debating how much money i wanna spend on this thing right now with my other project gettin ready to start

im gonna try a different maf and map, cuz ive narrowed it down to basically those. what tool is used for checking voltage? mulitmeter with car idling? is that right?

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

any updates???

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

nope still sitting as was

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

s-h-i-t-t-y

is he still thinking about back to stockish motor for less problems and start a diff project????

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

well were going to figure out what is wrong. I say we take the cams out and re-time to be able to hear or notice anything else because the cams mess with the idle no matter what. If there's something wrong he's pulling the motor and back to stock and keep that motor on a engine stand

o3nisoaso3

Well i finally got around to doing a compression test on the motor to start....

1- 220
2- 220
3- 190
4- 220

hmmm.... can somebody spot whats wrong here?!?! i dont even know where to begin with this ****, maybe gonna end up gettin new rings n rehone the block just on 3....?

anybody have any suggestions?

and another thing im confused on is in open loop it is idling between 1175-1250 and barely surges between them, but in closed loop it jumps all over the place and stalls out

06_ion2

did you do the motor build yourself? if not take it back

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

Yeah it was assembled by himself. I was gonna help, but when I went over his house the next time it was in the car

06_ion2

check the head? try a leakdown test and see if that helps the readings

o3nisoaso3

im in NY currently for work. i will get back to it when i get home, i wanted to do a compression and leak down at the same time but i didnt have time before i had to leave

massivematt

...is it missing by chance? I know you said the coil pack is fine, but it could be very possible that its the ignition control module, sitting directly on top of the coil pack. Mine died last winter, and just replaced everything: spark plugs, coil pack, and ICM. I actually did some researching on GM ignition systems in general and they are prone to a short life span because they werent made very strong. My grandma has 1991 buick lesabre with GM ignition, and its went through 4 coil packs. They were just made with a huge flaw.

o3nisoaso3

well i dont get any codes and it doesnt feel or sound like a miss. i know all cylinders were getting spark when i had the coilpack out of the car but it was just completely replaced under 2000 miles ago

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

We should take the balance shafts out and see what happens?

o3nisoaso3

that aint gonna effect the outcome of compression. and to rip out those things is a ******* pain in my dick. id rather pull the damn motor back out

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

Lol I don't wanna do that again. That was a bitch