2.2 Auto tranny
#1
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2.2 Auto tranny
I have a 2.2 LT Auto and I was wondering how strong is this tranny and how much horse power can it handle.
Also My transmision has this gear called I gear and it turns the traction control and the overdrive off and it has some get up and go do all of the autos have this.
Also My transmision has this gear called I gear and it turns the traction control and the overdrive off and it has some get up and go do all of the autos have this.
#5
Senior Member
Originally Posted by That Cobalt LT Guy
I dont have one of thoese were can I get one for the best price.
http://www.gm.com/company/gmtunersou...build_book.htm
There ya go.
Also to answer your question, there is no set amount of power that the automatic can handle.
What are your plans for your car that you want to know how much power it can handle? Maybe we can give more guidance if we knew instead of giving you a general answer...
#6
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Shamrock
If I remember correctly, the engine can handle about 250whp, and the tranny can handle about 280whp (or about 300crank?). Don't quote me on that.
The GM Build Book said that the rods snapped simultaneously at 250 HP...this was during their nitrous destruction test using a 100 shot. This was crank horsepower. When you understand the difference between nitrous injections and boost pressure, you'll understand why they did break.
Like I said to him, the transmission doesn't have a specific power number but it can handle plenty of power.
#7
I'm old school
Actually, the rods snapped at 283HP, but who's counting?
The 4t45e transmission is rated at 325 ft/lbs of torque at the gear box. They are not rated by horsepower. However, mated to an Ecotec, 325 ft/lbs is probably around 300 HP. The weak link is your torque converter. That can only take about 220 ft/lbs. You can upgrade the converter, much like upgrading a clutch in a manual.
Your gear selector has the following positions.
P
R
N
D
2
1
There is no "I" as you say. There might be a "3" in there, I don't remember.
In first gear ("1" on the selector), traction control is turned off as you say, but you are still making the exact same amount of power as you would be if you were in drive. Additionally, the trans will still shift to second in this position.
Try this:
Get yourself a stretch of open road. Select "1". Accelerate at WOT. You will see the car shift to second pretty much right at redline. This is actually part of the process for launching this car in a drag race. There is more to it, but that's one of the sub-skills.
BTW, this is all true for "2" as well. Traction control is off, and will shift to 3rd.
The 4t45e transmission is rated at 325 ft/lbs of torque at the gear box. They are not rated by horsepower. However, mated to an Ecotec, 325 ft/lbs is probably around 300 HP. The weak link is your torque converter. That can only take about 220 ft/lbs. You can upgrade the converter, much like upgrading a clutch in a manual.
Your gear selector has the following positions.
P
R
N
D
2
1
There is no "I" as you say. There might be a "3" in there, I don't remember.
In first gear ("1" on the selector), traction control is turned off as you say, but you are still making the exact same amount of power as you would be if you were in drive. Additionally, the trans will still shift to second in this position.
Try this:
Get yourself a stretch of open road. Select "1". Accelerate at WOT. You will see the car shift to second pretty much right at redline. This is actually part of the process for launching this car in a drag race. There is more to it, but that's one of the sub-skills.
BTW, this is all true for "2" as well. Traction control is off, and will shift to 3rd.
#8
Senior Member
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Originally Posted by Halfcent
Actually, the rods snapped at 283HP, but who's counting?
The 4t45e transmission is rated at 325 ft/lbs of torque at the gear box. They are not rated by horsepower. However, mated to an Ecotec, 325 ft/lbs is probably around 300 HP. The weak link is your torque converter. That can only take about 220 ft/lbs. You can upgrade the converter, much like upgrading a clutch in a manual.
Your gear selector has the following positions.
P
R
N
D
2
1
There is no "I" as you say. There might be a "3" in there, I don't remember.
In first gear ("1" on the selector), traction control is turned off as you say, but you are still making the exact same amount of power as you would be if you were in drive. Additionally, the trans will still shift to second in this position.
Try this:
Get yourself a stretch of open road. Select "1". Accelerate at WOT. You will see the car shift to second pretty much right at redline. This is actually part of the process for launching this car in a drag race. There is more to it, but that's one of the sub-skills.
BTW, this is all true for "2" as well. Traction control is off, and will shift to 3rd.
The 4t45e transmission is rated at 325 ft/lbs of torque at the gear box. They are not rated by horsepower. However, mated to an Ecotec, 325 ft/lbs is probably around 300 HP. The weak link is your torque converter. That can only take about 220 ft/lbs. You can upgrade the converter, much like upgrading a clutch in a manual.
Your gear selector has the following positions.
P
R
N
D
2
1
There is no "I" as you say. There might be a "3" in there, I don't remember.
In first gear ("1" on the selector), traction control is turned off as you say, but you are still making the exact same amount of power as you would be if you were in drive. Additionally, the trans will still shift to second in this position.
Try this:
Get yourself a stretch of open road. Select "1". Accelerate at WOT. You will see the car shift to second pretty much right at redline. This is actually part of the process for launching this car in a drag race. There is more to it, but that's one of the sub-skills.
BTW, this is all true for "2" as well. Traction control is off, and will shift to 3rd.
P-park
R-reverse
N-neutral
D-drive
I-intermediate
L-low
Low is a 1st gear only gear (i believe it shifts for you if your redlining
Intermediate just switches to keep the RPMs around 3-4k
i use intermediate to slow down the car...save break pad life
#9
I'm old school
What year is your car? I just went and looked at mine and it is exactly like I described above. I have never seen the labels that you described. However, I'd bet there is no actual difference in the trans at all. Just different labels.
#10
Senior Member
My car doesn't let me disable traction control no matter what gear I leave it in. Maybe it's because I'm in Canada but who knows.
I have tried every trick in the book. No luck.
So if you can disable it consider yourself lucky.
I have tried every trick in the book. No luck.
So if you can disable it consider yourself lucky.
#11
Originally Posted by Halfcent
What year is your car? I just went and looked at mine and it is exactly like I described above. I have never seen the labels that you described. However, I'd bet there is no actual difference in the trans at all. Just different labels.
#12
Originally Posted by RedBaseBolt
My car doesn't let me disable traction control no matter what gear I leave it in. Maybe it's because I'm in Canada but who knows.
I have tried every trick in the book. No luck.
So if you can disable it consider yourself lucky.
I have tried every trick in the book. No luck.
So if you can disable it consider yourself lucky.
#13
Senior Member
Originally Posted by D4u2s0t
maybe... on my car "I" and "L" disable traction control, as does pulling the E brake... don't know why you would want to pull the e brake when driving, but it does...
#14
I'm old school
Maybe your bulb is burned out...
Interesting about the different gear labels, I learned something today.
However, what I said above about the shift pattern is still the same.
Interesting about the different gear labels, I learned something today.
However, what I said above about the shift pattern is still the same.
#16
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The I gear is a sport gear might only be on the higher models of the 2006 cobalt I have the LT with the sport package and the leather package(very heavy car) so it might have to do with that.
#17
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So would it be wise for those with Automatics that want to keep the tranny running for the life of the car to install a tranny cooler and get a new torque converter? Granted I have warrenty left and I assume by upgrading the torque converter it's going to void it. I barely broke 3k miles and the tranny bounces around like a ping pong ball with WOT.
#20
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heres what my owners manuel says about I gear.
INTERMEDIATE (I): This position is also used for normal driveing. However, It offer breaking from the engine for slight downgrades were the vehicle would other wise accelerate due to steepness of grade. fuel economy will be lower than AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D).
INTERMEDIATE (I): This position is also used for normal driveing. However, It offer breaking from the engine for slight downgrades were the vehicle would other wise accelerate due to steepness of grade. fuel economy will be lower than AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D).
#21
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In the traction control part of the book it say to turn traction control off in case of being stuck put it in to I gear to turn traction control off.
I use it to go fast quick
I use it to go fast quick
#23
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Thats because your in first no matter if your in 1,I, or D. Drive gear will still rev all the way up untill you hit the rev limit.
were you will notice it is when on the high way (or going 35 or more) in dirve if you nail it it has to down shift In I gear its already there ready to go it does not have to down shift.
were you will notice it is when on the high way (or going 35 or more) in dirve if you nail it it has to down shift In I gear its already there ready to go it does not have to down shift.
#24
I did that once going like 35-40 and when i dropped it into 2nd the car made a horrible noise...I dont think the autos are ment to **** around with sport shifting. I think its just for gettin better traction in the snow etc
#25
I'm old school
Originally Posted by Nickc84
I tried to launch in 1st a few times but it dosent seems like i get a better jump then being in Drive