X 2

250 hp is the max safe hp recommended by gm, pick up a copy of the ecotec build book, its full of lots of good info. the book recommends 75 shot max.

GM did run the ecotec up to 280hp on stock internals on nitrous before the rods failed.

i personally prefer to use a progressive nitrous controller. it just makes it that much safer than throwing the large amount of extra load on the stock internals everytime you want a little kick.

 

dude its not that serious. i still wanna be your friend. i just need help is all i was trying to say. didnt mean to come off wrong but i tend to speak my mind and it dont always come out in a nice manner. can you forgive a fool?

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but automatics don't have flywheels do they.

 

They have a flexplate and torque converter,which together give the flywheel effect needed. A torque converter change can make a big difference.

 

word. i was just thinking of things i was gonna do to my car so i posted them down. didnt htink it all the way through. good call out tho

 

Dosent Anybody Buy The N.o.s. Kits Any More?

 

Thats fricken great, i'd have lughed my ***** off if that happened to someone i knew.

for having the money to afford Nitrous, i wish i had enough cash to foot the bill for a system, I like the step up idea

 

its only a weeks pay........but then there are the bills and that goddamn mortgage.....uh yeah property take too. yeah its gonna be a while.

 

i am considering getting a sneaky-pete dry shot for my LS.....i know the SP is a minor shot, but i am just looking for a little extra here and there.....and i dont wanna fry my internals....what im asking is if any of you know how difficult it would be to install and if you have any advice on how to install it in the intake somehow so i wont have to mess with the injectors......any1 wanna lend me some advice

 

thread jacker

 

sneaky-pete system is basicly a same set up as a regular dry shot nitrous system only that the sneaky pete has a smaller bottle that is very easily hidden and also people that hide the nitrous lines in the car so people cant see them. Not to menion the nitrous button is also hidden and not just some giant toggle switch that says NO2 like fast furious style. and if you want smaller amount of spray for like a 35 shot just buy the smaller nozzles for the intake where it shoots out of

 

Do what I did.

 

Come on Cowboy......you know i meant no disrespect....

 

You can run an OEM head gasket fine for what you're planning.

I do like the suggestion of the head studs just in case you need to pull the head more than once. They are definitely worth the money.

Stock cams would work fine, possibly look at retarding them slightly (not too much since you have an automatic and it could cause idle issues for you), but the stock grind isn't all that bad actually. If anything, get a set of stock ones reground for more duration on the exhaust side to help it breathe when you're using your nitrous.

Not every track requires a blow-down tube.

High-flow Cat would help out definitely. Legality of them depends on the state statuates for where you're at. Also the stock ECU isn't as bad as far as the tune as some are making it sound, you would be suprised. If anything get your a/f ratio either from a dyno place or by borrowing someone's wideband o2 so you can at least make sure you're not having a trend of leaning out as you pull through the powerband. There are quite a few guys with 2.2 Ions on stock tune running a minimum of a 50 shot with colder plugs gapped to .035 and there have been no problems.

Progressive controllers are great units, and most solenoids are designed to pulse (which is how the controller works), but you don't need one to run your kit. With the auto your first gear is taller as it is so it shouldn't be too bad. And for whoever mentioned it, even on a 35 shot the sudden jolt of power is going to happen, so the controller would not protect against it, just would help the holeshot.

I personally feel the Sneaky Pete system is a waste of money. You get one pass (if that) out of a bottle. Just doesn't seem worth it.

Oh and not everyone's switches look like ****

 

i know, but i had to

 

If you have a working knowledge of nitrous and kits. Just piece together your own. you'll save A LOT.

I mean look at the pieces I've bought for a small $270.
--NOS HiFlow 10lb bottle(half filled)
--ZEX nozzle
--4 jets .032-.036
--Nitrous solenoid
--Brackets
--Mainline
--Liquid filled gauge
--Remote bottle opener with three way switch

Still piecing it together to run a wet kit. Total amount for EVERYTHING off the wall guess would be $400 for me. Helps to have a buddy who is getting rid of his kit. Oh yeah...forgot to mention I'm picking up a whole set of jets if I can. baby steps as I saw previous posts...and plus I want to change it around some.

 

Iight people's..I'm new to the Nitrous shots and I'm really tryin to get some juice in my 2.2 though...If there's anything anybody can help me with please don't hold back...Tip pointers anything...

 

that's not bad, I only paid 500 for my kit, but it was the rest of the electronics that addes up. don't cheap out, you'll regret it later.

what exactly do you want to know damon? best tip I could give you is to read and research until you think you've done enough, and then start over. don't skimp on parts, don't "rig" stuff up, install things properly, show self control. manage all that and you'll go far.

 

Holy dead thread,

But to the original poster if you are still looking at doing a complete N/A build you should seriously look at all the numbers involved. Even if you only intend to do pistons, rods, and head studs you are looking at a minimum of $1000. And that number could almost double depending on who does the work.

If you are unable to do this type of work yourself, and do not have a hookup with an engine builder you could be looking at a huge labor bill. Add cams, and some head work and you see where we are going with this. Now if you have the tools and know how to this work yourself than you can really stretch a budget, so if that is the case most of what I have to say won't apply.

Add the nitrous kit on top of the pistons/rods and you could be looking at 3k or more just to do a mild N/A build and nitrous. With cams and head work you could easily drop 4-5k into this thing, with someone else doing the work.

For the same price you could go FI and have that power available all the time. If GM releases a SC kit for you guys you could even keep your warranty.

My point is that N/A builds on small 4 cyl engines are not for the budget minded enthusiast, not starting with an eco anyhow. I would personally rather spend that money setting up a nice intercooled 10 psi turbo set-up. Then if you ever want more power, just do the internals and turn up the boost.

 

^^With all that said,, as long as you don't surpass the 75 shot you could get away with running stock internals. That would be a really nice hp/$ setup.

But trying to push an N/A eco much beyond that is going to cost more than it is worth IMHO.

 

either way, these guys need a way to tune, that's the largest issue that needs to be overcome

 

Very true. I wonder what Hahn is doing on theirs,,, AFPR?

If HPtuners supports the cavaliers and sunfires it can only be a matter of time til the 2.2l cobalts get some love

 

that's what I'm hoping.

I just feel people in my situation might be screwed, the 2.2 Ions with speed density over airflow metering

 

^^I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya

 

haha thanks