without going into detail there are a few basic ideas of why you should think twice.....

- the additional pipe lenght causes worse throttle response (try sucking though a straw, then connect two straws together and notice it's harder to suck)

- it's a myth that it's colder air -- your hood is not sealed at the front and lots of air gets in there (the faster you go) most of the heat under your hood is against the firewall because that is where air is pushing it. When you are at a stop the intake will heatsoak, but that's about it.

- your ECU is not tuned for this dramatic change. to really get full gains from any intake you need to retune for it...

if you look at any decently setup N/A cars making serious power you'll see that almost all of them have short ram style intakes or modified boxes.



so spend ur money elsewhere, now stop calling me a hater, i backed my argument up

 

negative. cai will always be superior to sri or modified air boxes. dyno a cobalt stock and then dyno it w/ a cai and you will notice gains in hp and tq. you are correct about the throttle response though, but you will make up for it once you get going.

 

tiny totally what i have been saying to people on here for like a month man, good to see someone else on here knows that true cold air can only come from the front of the car, not under the hood

 

i dunno where the cai ends at on the cobalts but on the rsx's the filter is right behind where the fog lights go. since i don't have fog lights it's just an open area for cold air to rush in.

 

the filter on the injen cai ends up right behind one of the open air grilles down below. So yea its direct air flow.

Don't know about the base models though, there front air dam is one piece and I am not sure if the side ones are open like the ls

So is that true cold air, it is in the front of the car is it not?

 

I just looked at the front end of a base model and the grilles on the lower bumper are only open in the middle, so the cai probably is a waste for them. The ls's on the other hand have open grilles that are just waiting for a cai.

The stock air intake is down below as well, the injen tube goes through the same hole into the bumper as the stock one. The filter box is up above but the actual intake is down below. The "tube styling" just makes the intake alot less restrictive. "try sucking through a straw, then try sucking through half a straw with a shoe box in the middle and the other end of the straw attached to the far end of the shoe box. <-------- thats your stock intake take it off and give it a good look.

 

I don't agree, plenty of people have taken intake temps vs a ram air or stock intake and intake temps are always cooler if routed properly.

Throttle response is even sacrificed with a short ram but overall gains more than make up for it.

To get the max amount of power from ANY mods your car should be dyno tuned...not just a cold air intake.

Sucking in hot air from underneath the hood will NEVER be more beneficial than a cold air intake. A modified air box setup is better than a ram air setup but not superior to a cold air setup.

Thats nice to have your own opinions...however they are pretty biased and not 100% correct.

 

i never really believed in a cold air intake, im just worried about water getting into it, my injen one is at the warm air setup and it will stay that way

 

you are 100% retarded

for example, throttle response with a SRI is not sacrificed
how do you dynotune a stock car with an intake??
and why do the high hp cars use short rams over CAI's??? the obviously work better

hmmmm, thanks for playing

 

I don't know what your local car guys have been teaching you but since when is sucking in underhood air good for the engine? Which high horsepower cars are running short rams? Got proof? The only reason they would even throw one underhood is because intake gains are minute in the first place.

I have run both a ram air and cold air intake and I saw more gains with the cai plus cooler temps. You stick with your ram air setup if you think its better but don't be surprised when you hop on the dyno and you see less gains than everyone else.

 

I assume you are not going into detail because you have no idea how to prove these regurgitations of other internet crapola that you have read.

Longer pipe, if it is the same diameter and contains at least as many as the original bends can inhibit throttle response, that is true. That is about the only thing you have written that is not total garbage.

Your hood is sealed, open it up and look at the leading edge for the weather stripping, that plus your air dam forces as much air as possible over the radiator. The air that gets into your engine compartment is very warm after passing over the radiator. The engine is a large chunk of hot metal, it makes a very effective air heater under the hood. Heat hanging out by the firewall....That would make me laugh if it weren't so sad that you honestly believe it.

Think about how the hot air will flow in a crowded engine compartment, it will swirl all over the place. The least likely spot for it to hit is the firewall as it is blocked by the engine. Where the air hits is unimportant anyway. All areas of the engine compartment will approach the same temperature as it reaches steady state conditions. Some areas will hold the heat longer as they do not disipate it as well as others. i.e. aluminum vs steel vs plastic, etc.

Your ECU will read cooler intake air and add fuel/timing as originally programmed. Your car makes more power at 70 degrees than at 100 degrees. If you lower your intake air temps 30 degrees, you get the same benefit.

A short ram will make power by lowering intake restrictions (pumping loss). That is typically under 5 horses, but lowering intake air temps can raise power ~1% per 10F drop in temp. So if you can lower your intake temp 50F on a 300 horsepower engine, you are looking at a 15 horsepower increase.

I have a short ram intake on my car, it also ducts from the front, above the radiator, I pulled the seal from the front of the hood to feed it. and it is enclosed by a jet-hot coated aluminum pan. No air from the engine compartment gets in it. Scanning my car gets intake air temps within a few degrees of ambient air temp. If I pull the seal off where my pan intersects with the hood, essentially making it a short ram underhood intake, the temps skyrocket at least 70F at idle and between 30-50 at speed (depending on outside temp).

Manufacturers do try to get cool air into the motor, I can think of no modern example where they get air from inside the engine compartment. They have to live with noise limits and generally have to introduce bends and baffles to keep the intake sound quiet.

I would like to see your 'list' of normally aspirated cars making serious power with underhood air intakes. If you can actually produce any, I would be a sizable amount of money that they had to compromise on the intake because of space restrictions underhood.

No hating here. Just tired of seeing misinformation posted. Ignorance is not a crime. Just get a few real books and learn something before you parrot back something that somebody else tossed online.

 

[QUOTE=tiny]without going into detail there are a few basic ideas of why you should think twice.....

- your ECU is not tuned for this dramatic change. to really get full gains from any intake you need to retune for it...

Hum somewhere I read in one of your posts that a cai dosn't produce much power, so then why would your ecu see a dramatic change, if the cai only helps a little. I agree that a ram air is better on some cars because of the location, and the only reason you see high hp cars with them is because they modify the throttle body and put a bigger inlet pipe on it and they don't make bigger inlet piping to put in the place of where a cai would go, so that is why you see it. A properly installed cai will always outperform a sri, thats why most people buy them over a sri.

 

high horsepower cars for proof? lets look at your friends at gm. the legendary camaro ss. funtional hood scoop means ram air. oh and the ws6 TA that out performed it. with RAM AIR on the side of the double cowl hood. sound familiar? both put up more numbers than the z28. and for anyone that put their cai near some kind of opening on the front of the car, you essiencially made a ram air intake. sorry guys. but good luck on sucking up water. oh and a few more gm cars with ram air. new silverado and trailblazer ss.

 

With out the box i heard that you have to worry about moister as well. B/C im sure that for most of us our cars are daily drivers. The moister that will be sucked in will increase the risk of a ceased engine. Take my buddies 04 S2000 cai for 6 mos untill moister ceased his motor Something else to think about.

 

umm none of these cars have open filters nor are sucking in underhood heat...the short ram is not the problem, it is the open filter in the engine bay. You are not seeing gains made with short ram intakes from having an open filter in the engine bay, you are seeing them because of the removed restriction in the piping.

and also, to hydrolock your engine you must have that filter submerged in water and actually be on the throttle so that it sucks it into the engine. And if you do that then you're simply an idiot. Any person with some common sense could run a CAI, enjoy the gains and have no worries.

I've never seen so many people doubt such a simple concept...you can argue that a CAI may not be worth the money vs a short ram but it has been proven that a CAI is superior to a short ram in terms of gains, end of story.

 

[QUOTE=tiny]without going into detail there are a few basic ideas of why you should think twice.....

- the additional pipe lenght causes worse throttle response (try sucking though a straw, then connect two straws together and notice it's harder to suck)

- it's a myth that it's colder air -- your hood is not sealed at the front and lots of air gets in there (the faster you go) most of the heat under your hood is against the firewall because that is where air is pushing it. When you are at a stop the intake will heatsoak, but that's about it.

- your ECU is not tuned for this dramatic change. to really get full gains from any intake you need to retune for it...

if you look at any decently setup N/A cars making serious power you'll see that almost all of them have short ram style intakes or modified boxes.



so spend ur money elsewhere, now stop calling me a hater, i backed my argument up




yeah ok , and where did you learn this non-sense . some one needs to do more research before posting GARBAGE