Anyone have them installed? Will these work with the 2.2 cobalts?

Are they bolt on or what fabrication do I have to do to install them?


Thanks for the help

 

from where???? where are yougetting it from ??

 

here ya go

http://cobalt-addiction.com/handling.htm

 

ow yea there fine.. if you have a good tool set and a jack it might take you 2hrs if your real slow.....

 

Let me know how the install goes. I'm pretty mech savy, but no mechanic by ANY means. I was contemplating those as a start for suspension upgrades following springs & better shocks.

 

From this post, I assume it is bolt on? If so, Im gonna order them this week and install them next weekend. I would let everyone know how the install went.

 

From this post, I assume it is bolt on? If so, Im gonna order them this week and install them next weekend. I would let everyone know how the install went.

 

are you looking for an improvement in handling or to prevent wheelhop? sounds like you're looking for an improvement in handling and traction bars will not give you that

 

Why does a 2.2l need traction bars? I have read that they help fight wheel hop but i didn't know you could get that in a 2.2???

 

if you pull it from neutrol to drive at 3.5k rpm...

 

I dont see the point of them for a 2.2L cuz we dont really have a wheel hop issue. If your interested in improving handling and eliminating body roll I suggest getting a rear sway bar. It makes the world of difference

 

Would these work? Yes. I have them... but then again, I need them, because I have an LSJ. You, unless you are running n20 or something extreme, will not need them. As stated above, better off with springs/sway bars/etc.

As for the install... pretty easy.... just basic hand tools, and a drill ( you have to drill a hole in the control arms to bolting it in)

 

I have the BWoody versions on my 2.2, they suck ass for ground clearance when you're on coilovers but they protect the oil pan in a way

 

I'm not looking for improved handling. I want to eliminate wheel hop. I believe I do have wheel hop when launching at 3.5k+. lol not hard to notice. BTW I already have a strut & sway bar. my next thing for handling is wider tires.

 

I really hope you don't mean you're neutral-slamming your car...

 

honestly you're alot better off with solid mounts or prothane tranny inserts...if you have wheel hop after that then I'd go for the traction bars but not first.

 

I get a lot of wheel hop in the rain.

 

yeah I launch mine from neutrol to drive at 3 to 3.5k rpm and have some wheel hop...if you rev it too high it will stall out when you pull to drive...but ....if you do it right you get a better launch...I do hear sway bars help reduce it though...just really depends on the amount of power you are making

 

Your transmission hates you... just so that you know lol.

 

Wow, with that type of launch, expect it to last about five more seconds.

You NEVER neutral-slam a car with an automatic trans.

 

IS THIS GUY SERIOUS!!!!! a nuetral slam into drive??? WARRENTY DOESN'T COVER STUPIDITY!!! have fun with that one!!

i gots prothane tranny mounts, ingalls stiffy, eibachs n my wheel hop virtually gone....i of coarse got a few more horse n still have a few problems n which case the traction bars are on the list of things to come!!!....but damn man....LOL

NUETRAL SLAM INTO DRIVE
to that tranny very VERY shortly!!!

 

OMG neutral slamming is horrible for your trans. Even if your only doing it at the track, thats going to kill your trans. Preloading (hold the brake and hold the gas at desired revs and then let of the brake) is a better idea than neutral dropping. Still not the greatest thing for your trans and you may want to run a trans cooler if you do it alot, but saves on wear and tear of neutral dropping it.

 

yeah I don't do it often..but it sure gets a better launch...but the e-brake idea would probably be better...I'll be givin that a shot ......but I slide mine in and out from neutrol to drive every day while driving...not always launching....but I've had my car over a year and put 30,000 miles on it...

 

You dont need to use the ebrake if your just trying to hold the car in place before launching to preload. If your trying to do a burn out than that is another story. Preloading will also give you a lot better launch than just waiting for green to hit the gas. I have gotten a nice reaction time of 0.05 on the track using this method. I stage so that only the second light is on and preload and launch when the second amber light comes on. If you wait til the green comes on your waiting too long. Human reaction time is about 0.2 sec and is about the same time it take for the tree to drop from the last amber light to green

 

You don't even have to do that. When I punch it from a dead stop, I get mild wheel hop in first. I think that its from the torque converting locking up and putting all that torque to the wheels.