2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

Engine Rebuild Parts

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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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Engine Rebuild Parts

So in the spring time, I plan on rebuilding my engine. For right now, I'm going to try and get all of the OEM wear parts that I won't need to upgrade, just replace. I'm in a bind of what I wear parts I need though... Can anyone give me a list of parts they did to rebuild or an idea of what I'll need to get?

-Parts I plan on getting...

-Eagle Rods

-Wiseco Pistons (should i drop compression to 8.9:1?)

-ZZP Valve springs/retainers

*Supertech Valves

*Cams (stage 1/2 or blower cams?) I might be doing a turbo swap instead of my supercharger at some point... Keep that in mind.

-Cometic Head Gasket

* = maybe parts, needed?

Now, what OEM parts should I also replace while having the engine apart?

Thanks in advance guys
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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What year is your cobalt?

Might want to consider switching to Gen II block if older than an 07.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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i'm an 08. already have the gen 2 block
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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Don't drop to 8.9:1 compression unless you are going turbo
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 07:44 PM
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sounds good. i planned on dropping down to a 2.7 w/ 80's once i did the rebuild. worse case scenario, if i decide to turbo instead, i'll just replace the pistons with a lower compression.

again though.... oem wear parts, what will i need?
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:27 PM
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Maybe full gasket set? Not sure if pistons come with rings.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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well the gasket set is a must, i spose i should've posted that because i knew. leaky exhaust gasket right now anyways.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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I am sure you know, but we carry all those parts, and much more on our site. We price match also if needed

Do the turbo grind comp cams...
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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aaron, would you price match eagle rods/wiseco piston combo that's always on ebay for the 10:1 compression? they are buy now for 799 but i've heard of people getting down to 700 with the company who does it. i'm supercharged now though, you're telling me to go with turbo cams?
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BankerBalt
aaron, would you price match eagle rods/wiseco piston combo that's always on ebay for the 10:1 compression? they are buy now for 799 but i've heard of people getting down to 700 with the company who does it. i'm supercharged now though, you're telling me to go with turbo cams?
IMO hold off on the cams until you actually change the power adder...

PM me when you are ready to order, let me see what I can do when you are ready to pull the trigger.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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I'd go with Wiseco Pistons, Eagle Rods, ARP headstuds, Cometic or OEM head gasket and ZZP valve springs

I've been thinking about picking up blower cams as well...IIRC 06_ion2 is still running Comp blower cams in his ZZP turbo car and making 400whp
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:00 PM
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this^ and you'll need rod bearings and main bearings. oem is just as good as clevite and much cheaper. if you don't go with arp headstuds you have to buy new head bolts anyways as the stockers are torque to yield and not to be reused
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 11:05 PM
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sorry to bring this up again... but what's the different placements for the rod bearings (obviously on rods) and main bearings? and how many main bearings will i need?
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 11:27 PM
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The main bearings go on the crank and i believe there was 10 when I did mine. if you aren't going to take your crank out and have it balanced you don't have to buy new main bearings. That's up to you.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 12:34 AM
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jesus...well i don't plan on taking the crank out.... and i hope i don't have to do those bearings because they cost an assload for nothing since i'm not going to take them out. so the only bearings i will need are the rod bearings? the eagle rods don't come with them?
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 01:33 AM
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i dont think rods come with bearings...
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 07:48 AM
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Mine didn't come with new bearings. i got new bearings pretty cheap from the dealer
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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Yea they're cheap on rock auto. 5 a piece is doable. My stock valve train should be fine up to 300 wheel, right? I will eventually upgrade the head parts but if i can do the bottom end before the top for a month or two, I'd rather do that if its safe for that short time
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 12:33 PM
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if you have it apart then get it ported and get the valve springs in there. Why do it twice?
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 03:48 PM
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because a port job would be so damn expensive and i can't have my car down for that long. i expect a week tops on this with me and a couple other friends that are pretty damn good at rebuilding engines. i know these things take money to build and if i have the money, i will definitely get the head parts in. it's just a matter of me finding the money for the extra 500 dollars in parts on top of the 750 for rods/pistons along with oem parts and a new 450 dollar clutch
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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Can you replace the rod bearings on this car with the motor still in?
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 07:50 PM
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as far as i know, yes. but don't quote me...

also been reading a little bit here.. looks like i'm supposed to hone my cylinder walls also? can this be done by a single person with the right tool? if so, can anyone link me?
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:13 PM
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you can hone yourself. we have a tool at school it goes in a drill you do it in a up down motion slowly with the drill to each cylinder. pretty easy.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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how many times are you supposed to go through each cylinder? is there any prep or post work along with it before you install your rods and pistons?
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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Most will look like this:



You want to make a "cross hatch" in the walls, to allow the piston rings to seat properly:

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