I want 200WHP...NA
You do realize that even if you actually accomplish 200whp n/a, the car won't be reliable at all anymore and will no longer be daily drivable. Not only that, but you won't be faster than 14's in the 1/4 on street tires and mid-high 13's on slicks. What's the point?
Throw a supercharger or turbo on there, hit 200whp, and be reliable and daily driveable still.
Throw a supercharger or turbo on there, hit 200whp, and be reliable and daily driveable still.
You're not gonna see 200 na without engine work.
However the best you're gonna get will be close. Around 170 whp with bolt ons, tune and cams.
Be happy with that since your motor won't blow itself up after 100,000 miles.
However the best you're gonna get will be close. Around 170 whp with bolt ons, tune and cams.
Be happy with that since your motor won't blow itself up after 100,000 miles.
^^^^^ A lot of those prices vary as well. You can knock a couple hundred off intake and exhaust. But I'm sure some things would cost more. If you would have had the cash, that fully built head on here that was for sale would have been perfect for you.
its just not cost effective is what most people are getting at. I've got a moderate N/A build, lets take a look at what I've spent so far:
Injen Intake - $230
2.5" Exhaust (might wanna go 3" for a high rpm build) - $400
LSJ Exhaust Manifold - $50 (had Pacesetter which was $180)
LSJ Downpipe - $75
2.4 Intake Manifold - $150
Ported TB - $95
Patriot Stage 2 Cylinder Head - $1300
SMG Head Studs - $180
Cometic Head Gasket - $106
what I don't have but what will also be needed:
Stage 2 or Stage 3 Comp Cams - $470
Wiesco High Comp Pistons - $500 (likely more since they'd be custom)
Eagle Rods - $340 (probably not necessary but might as well while its torn apart)
Neutral Balance Shafts - $440
so an estimate of about $4500...
and then there are other misc costs for engine assembly and nuts/bolts
Last edited by IonNinja; Sep 16, 2008 at 12:55 PM.
Based on IONNINJA's post on the 3rd page it would cost me roughly another $2500 for a built head, pistons, rods, head studs and new head gasket..going turbo at this point would cost me that for sure.
done is right...5-6K later.
its just not cost effective is what most people are getting at. I've got a moderate N/A build, lets take a look at what I've spent so far:
Injen Intake - $230
2.5" Exhaust (might wanna go 3" for a high rpm build) - $400
LSJ Exhaust Manifold - $50 (had Pacesetter which was $180)
LSJ Downpipe - $75
2.4 Intake Manifold - $150
Ported TB - $95
Patriot Stage 2 Cylinder Head - $1300
SMG Head Studs - $180
Cometic Head Gasket - $106
what I don't have but what will also be needed:
Stage 2 or Stage 3 Comp Cams - $470
Wiesco High Comp Pistons - $500 (likely more since they'd be custom)
Eagle Rods - $340 (probably not necessary but might as well while its torn apart)
Neutral Balance Shafts - $440
so an estimate of about $4500...
and then there are other misc costs for engine assembly and nuts/bolts
its just not cost effective is what most people are getting at. I've got a moderate N/A build, lets take a look at what I've spent so far:
Injen Intake - $230
2.5" Exhaust (might wanna go 3" for a high rpm build) - $400
LSJ Exhaust Manifold - $50 (had Pacesetter which was $180)
LSJ Downpipe - $75
2.4 Intake Manifold - $150
Ported TB - $95
Patriot Stage 2 Cylinder Head - $1300
SMG Head Studs - $180
Cometic Head Gasket - $106
what I don't have but what will also be needed:
Stage 2 or Stage 3 Comp Cams - $470
Wiesco High Comp Pistons - $500 (likely more since they'd be custom)
Eagle Rods - $340 (probably not necessary but might as well while its torn apart)
Neutral Balance Shafts - $440
so an estimate of about $4500...
and then there are other misc costs for engine assembly and nuts/bolts
Based on full bolt ons, stg1 cams and a tune, where would you suspect I would sit right now in terms of WHP? Estimates obviously..
You do realize that even if you actually accomplish 200whp n/a, the car won't be reliable at all anymore and will no longer be daily drivable. Not only that, but you won't be faster than 14's in the 1/4 on street tires and mid-high 13's on slicks. What's the point?
Throw a supercharger or turbo on there, hit 200whp, and be reliable and daily driveable still.
Throw a supercharger or turbo on there, hit 200whp, and be reliable and daily driveable still.
Last edited by jlmd; Sep 16, 2008 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Mounts already done. upper motor and front/rear tranny from ttr.
What is the reason that will make it unreliable as a DD? Stronger parts hurt that ability?
Last edited by Blue_Balt; Sep 16, 2008 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You don't think too hard, that's for sure.
I believe because when you put in better cams, the vibrating would be very annoying or something. I hear if you have an manual tranny and put in new cams, that you'll will have a hard time not stalling the car because of the crazy idle.
I believe because when you put in better cams, the vibrating would be very annoying or something. I hear if you have an manual tranny and put in new cams, that you'll will have a hard time not stalling the car because of the crazy idle.
not at him...at you.
Last edited by Projekt; Sep 16, 2008 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
That way when something goes wrong he will still have the basicaly stock Cobalt to DD.
Ehh, 80's Civics are ugly as hell..I'm sure you plan on getting it to 300whp with a swap/turbo so that fits a little more than just 80's Civics..
Don't forget to buy a lifetime supply of Viagra, because you will instantly develope erectile disfunction after dumping this much money into a car for only 200hp and getting beat by almost everything coming off a car lot today.
Sorry man, I admire your curiousity to go all-motor. I guess it would be cool to feel the difference in how the engine responds in this little 4-banger on all-motor, but it's kinda like doing work to a lawn mower -- it'll do the same job it did before, only a little faster and the only people your gonna beat are other lawn mowers.
To me, modding a car is about moving up in rank, it's fun and slightly amusing to see a car go from stock to beating cars that are in a different "class". How much rank can you gain if you'd still lose to a stock SS/SC? You'll go from hanging with Stock civics, to hanging with modded civics.
Get an SS/SC, that way when you mod, you move up classes. You'll go from beating civics, other modded 4-bangers, to beating stock and lightly modded Evo's, Sti's, 350z's, G35's,.... you get the picture.
Sorry man, I admire your curiousity to go all-motor. I guess it would be cool to feel the difference in how the engine responds in this little 4-banger on all-motor, but it's kinda like doing work to a lawn mower -- it'll do the same job it did before, only a little faster and the only people your gonna beat are other lawn mowers.
To me, modding a car is about moving up in rank, it's fun and slightly amusing to see a car go from stock to beating cars that are in a different "class". How much rank can you gain if you'd still lose to a stock SS/SC? You'll go from hanging with Stock civics, to hanging with modded civics.
Get an SS/SC, that way when you mod, you move up classes. You'll go from beating civics, other modded 4-bangers, to beating stock and lightly modded Evo's, Sti's, 350z's, G35's,.... you get the picture.
Easy...
First bolt this up:

Then
http://www.zorst.com/kitinfo.html
Then

Hehehe, just kiddin. I wish you well on your build and if you have the money, the time, and its what you want, then build up what you want. Sure it may be harder than FI (lik eyou didnt know), and more expensive, but it would be more original and for that you get big points. If its rare, I like it, maybe thats why I bought an SC, around here, they are rare. Turbos are everywhere. My buddy bought a toda crate engine for his rsx-s, its 315whp N/A and I think he lost both nuts in the payment. But wow, what a beautiful car, and when he enters a show, he wins. Also, when people ask the whp and then find out its a 4cyl all motor build, they kneel and pray. I like the idea, just budget time and money.
First bolt this up:

Then
http://www.zorst.com/kitinfo.html
Then

Hehehe, just kiddin. I wish you well on your build and if you have the money, the time, and its what you want, then build up what you want. Sure it may be harder than FI (lik eyou didnt know), and more expensive, but it would be more original and for that you get big points. If its rare, I like it, maybe thats why I bought an SC, around here, they are rare. Turbos are everywhere. My buddy bought a toda crate engine for his rsx-s, its 315whp N/A and I think he lost both nuts in the payment. But wow, what a beautiful car, and when he enters a show, he wins. Also, when people ask the whp and then find out its a 4cyl all motor build, they kneel and pray. I like the idea, just budget time and money.


