Looks good JD! I would recommend getting a rubber grommet around that connector to protect from dirt (especially when somebody is sitting in the passenger side)

 

There is a whole top piece that snaps over the top and with it all the wires exit 90 deg on the right hand side. In this picture you can see the bottom "duck bill" which the top part will mirror.

 

Not my video but a good one demonstrating the AEM connector.

 

AEM connector? Pretty sure thats a GM connector that AEM is using.

 

Probably made by the same company that makes GM's connectors. Is it Aptiv or who makes GM's connectors?

 

Gm has a crap ton of companies making connectors for them. Kind of depends on who wins the bid that year but most of our connectors are by a few companies. The most common are Delphi, bosch, molex, sumitomo, and Yazaki. Here is the current full list though lol. We had more come out this past year with the new .51mm terminal but hasn't been added to the terminal repair manual yet. Hopefully they update it soon, makes me so mad they have removed all the terminal and connector information from si.

 

Did you get those schematics and connector views I sent jdbaugh?

 

I meant to answer you earlier Kolt but yes I did receive them. Thank you very much. Yesterday evening after spending evenings all week and the better half of yesterday working on it I finally finished my stubby harness from the ECU to the mil-spec connector on the firewall.

 

Sorry. I dont get on here much lately. It's the AEM harness out to the firewall with the bulkhead, maybe 2 foot long. I went on mouser or digikey and got a milspec connector and pins for a 62 pin connector I think. Then the engine has its own harness for easy removal. V2 of the engine harness will have Deutch connectors for each breakout to make things simpler.

ZZP has their one AEM car - the half mile drag car.

TJP has mine, trevors, and a few others we have worked on.

The nice thing is AEM now has LE5 diagrams and stuff. Things we didnt have when we did my car in 2016.

 

Lol. I don't think anyone has ever said going stand alone is easy, but the results, especially for the non HP Tuners cars, are well worth it.

 

All good. I ended up getting the 62-pin mil-spec connector that Trevor sent me a link to. It may be the same as yours, not sure. I also got wiring and pinout diagrams from Kolt for L61 and LSJ components. I'm going to rebuild the stock delphi component connections so if I ever have to replace components in the future they will plug right in off the shelf.

 

You mentioned LE5 support, I looked up the Series 5 and see they support 2 variable cams!! Yay, I was under the impression I had to go with a Haltec if I wanted support for VVT. Would I need to contact AEM directly to get the LE5 diagram? Google and AEM resources don't bring up anything.

 

Damn man you have alot of work going on, keep it up

 

care to share that link? im still trying to sort out what i wanna do when i stick my ms3x into the 944. unsure if i wanna do a single mil spec bulkhead or use 2-3 12 pin flanged deutsch connectors and have each branch plug into the firewall where it needs to go.

 

https://racespeconline.com/products/...15311144386603 This is what I used

https://www.prowireusa.com/p-1490-61...-conn-kit.aspx Here is another source I found later

 

Mil-spec plug in firewall







If I was going to do it again I would have started at the center of the mil-spec plug and worked my way out.

 

Removed excess wires/connectors from engine harness that won't be needed leaving only the components needed to keep power steering and information on my dash cluster. It killed me to cut up a perfectly good harness but no need to leave unneeded wires dangling.

 

Made a little progress on the car this weekend. Spent Friday evening applying dielectric grease and mating what's left of the OEM connectors. After that I installed loom over the wires so the OEM harness is now done.




Electrical connector clip broke so I had to implement another "zip-tie mod"


AEM 320lph E85 fuel pump and boost reference fuel pressure regulator along with LSJ cooling fan assembly will be arriving at my garage early this week. Installing those will take some time up but I am running out of things to do without my head back yet. I also found another intercooler pump that has better flow characteristics than stock and the plan right now is to run this unit and the stock pump in series. Possibly run just the improved pump depending on if I find room to mount a secondary.

 

Installed BRFPR, AEM E85 320lph fuel pump, and Holley Hydramat fuel pickup. Cut into the stock power wire to use to send a ground signal from the AEM. Ended up modifying ZZP's kit because I wasn't sure what they intended I do. One of the fittings sent doesn't fit anything on the stock system that I could find. It was just slightly too large.

Male bottom end was slightly to large in diameter to work with anything on stock system. Only part I didn't end up using out of the kit.




Ended up configuring the pressure regulator as shown. Used 2 ZZP provided fuel fittings and added my own 45 deg hose fitting for boost/vac signal. Drilled out the center hole larger to use fuel filter bolt to attach both.

One of the fittings in ZZP's Z-configuration would rotate. I don't know if that means leaking issues or not.

Ran 12 Ga. wire to power pump through relay that has ground reference trigger up front from the AEM. Power wire for AEM also ran.

 

Drilled a hole to run power wires to pump. Didn't have any grommets on hand so did it just like this and running the loom through. Packed inside of loom and all around hole with dielectric grease to seal it up. I de-burred the bore so I think I can get decent life out of this.

You can see the underside wire routing here

Looking straight up at it

Without Kolt this would have probably been impossible but thanks to the diagram he shared I was able to easily identify the correct pin to hijack the wire from for the relay trigger.

Used solder/crimp fittings for power wire to fuel pump.

The AEM fuel pump is longer than the stock pump. The AEM pump is about 7mm longer

Stock fuel pump housing with external fuel sock removed. It just snaps on and off.

Cut the bottom of the filter housing off.

Holley Hydramat installed


I used a piece of PVC pipe as a spacer between pump exterior and the stock shell so I could secure the fuel pump. The stock system holds the pump in place by trapping it with the shell bottom that was cut off.

I grooved the PVC pipe to run the ziptie through and tightly around the foam sleeve on the pump.

 

Forgot to add this above but this is the stock fuel pressure regulator. Under the housing is a cantilever "diving board" spring that exerts clamping load to a ball/seat valve which is routed to the second nipple on the fuel pump filter. When the pressure in the line, up to the injector rail, exceeds the spring force it pushes the ball away from the valve seat and allows excess flow to bypass back to tank to maintain fuel pressure. This mechanism is removed to use external BRFPR.



Also forgot to show above how I tied into the stock evap line which I will hijack for boost/vac signal from the front



L61 fan vs. LSJ fans

 

Might want to verify the pcv isnt going to have compatibility issues with gasoline or e85

 

I'm curious how this will turn out. This would be something I want as well - while I'll replace my radiator.

Also, this has now become my favourite build thread by far.

 

I did a quick look online and couldn't find a whole lot but what I saw suggested it should be OK. I wouldn't use it for fuel line but, as a spacer, as long as the gasoline doesn't dissolve or absorb/soften it we should be fine. If anyone has a reference that states otherwise please share. https://www.vinidex.com.au/wp-conten...nce-of-PVC.pdf

 

It's "build" but thanks lol. The fans swap straight in as far as fitting up to the radiator. The issue is that the LSJ runs 1 fan on for low and 2 fans on for high through two relays, 1 on for low, both on for high. The L61 runs a single fan with high and low mode through separate relays that aren't triggered at the same time. To retain high-low functionality you have to do some rewiring and buy an extra fan electrical connector for the additional fan.

I will only be utilizing "high" mode for use with my AEM. Both fans will either be off or on paired to run together.

BTW you can see VDO on the LSJ fans I bought. They are on wholesale clearance pricing on RockAuto and I couldn't pass it up for $40. I usually go OEM but this is something easy enough to replace I had to give them a shot.