I just ordered stage 2 cams from TurboTech racing, and a new valve cover gasket from CED. I can't wait. Tuning will be done again with vince at trifecta performance. I havent decided if im going to install them myself or have a shop do it. I understand you have to have a cam gear holding tool to keep the timing. If anyone has installed cams themselves, post a message, and if anyone has any pics of what the internals look like in our engine, post them too. I would like to have an idea of what im working with prior to the install.

 

my son had a 04 cavalier with a 2.2 in it. he broke a timeing chain and all we did is replace the chain. [ut back in timeing was easy... maybe the new engines are different...

 

Do you guys think i should get titanium valve springs and retainers? I can't decide if i should or not. I know they recommend you do it but they are like 600 dollars. Does anyone on here know how long the stock springs will last with stage 2 cams? Rather who on here has only put cams in and no springs?

 

to see the what you would be dealing with, take like 15min of your time to see

take out your spark plugs

and then the 10mm bolts on your valve cover...and your there it takes no more than 15 min

 

that's pointless. Then you have to put a new gasket on and reseal the thing. I need pictures "prior" to the install.

 

possibly get the J-tool so you don't screw up the timing.

Order from GM or somewhere else

 

where do you get that tool at? I'm sort of new to "internals". This is probably a dumb question but can anyone tell me if the cam gears are connected to the cams? If i could see some pictures i would probably understand how they work better. Do you have to actually take the cam gears out to take the cams out or can just unbolt the cams and slide the new ones in?

 

here is the tool number

its a j-tool
J-43655

and its 272.60 from the Cornwell and Snap-on guy

 

cam gears are bolted to the ends of the cams

 

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=7203

woot

 

so you cant unbolt the cam gears from the cams without losing the timing??

 

you do not need to replace the valve cover gasket when removing the cover

it is rubber and can be re-used

also, unless you have one of those cam tools its not really possible to keep your timing

 

Should have bought my cams so that I can fix my Transmission. Probably would have saved you some money, since they come with valve springs (ones that don't need new retainers).

 

JBP sells the cam tool, and the valve cover gasket is reusable if you don't stretch it when you pull it off

 

How difficult is this for an average person?

I have every tool to use but not a ton of skill yet.

I installed all bolt ons by myself without problems.

 

If you've never done this before I recommend you get the factory service manual (Check CED for prices) or at least a Chiltons or Haynes book on the Cobalt. The timing chain is under tension and has an oil controlled tensioner you will need to loosen or remove. There is also a "J-43655" tool that holds both cam gears in-place at one time while you replace the cams (I'm sure it is very expensive).

Nothing's impossible, but considering your level of experience with this job I'd recommend finding someone who is experienced.

 

so if i buy the J-tool and pop it on there, thats all i need to do to hold the timing? correct or no?

Also will i have to buy new cam gear bolts?? I have seen a few posts saying they aren't reusable??

 

Straight out of the factory service manual:

"Important: Always install NEW sprocket bolts."

The J tool "J 43655" literally holds both cam gears in place. It sits on top of the cylinder head and you bolt the cam sprokets to it to allow removal of the cams -- it only fits the 2.2 and 2.0 engines -- won't work on the 2.4 because of the VVT cam actuators.

Replacing cams is not impossible but you really should get a manual to follow

 

I recommend against using that tool as it is possible to recieve chain slack on the intake side of the chain near the crank sprocket since the only devices keeping tension on the chain on that side is the position of the intake cam sprocket and the fixed timing chain guide. If you are not 100% careful in removing and reinstalling the intake cam the crank sprocket can jump a link. Its been done by one member on this forum already.

Pull the passenger side wheel, fender liner, passenger side engine mount and the tensioner pulley to access the front cover and time the engine the method shown in the GM 300hp LSJ build book. Theres absolutely no way to have chain slack as using this method reinstalls the timing chain tensioner after you have lined up the colored links to the corresponding marks on the cam and crank sprockets.

 

the steps they have listed take forever to reset the timing

don't they use a similar tool at dealerships though??

 

I've done cams/heads/timing chains on sevral of these motors......I always pop the front cover off and not use that tool. Like Witt said, if you are not 100 percent you will mess up the timing. I'd rather take the extra hour or so and take the cover off and set it up right. It's not a hard job to do if you know what you are doing......If you don't know what you are doing, either have someone who does help you or don't do it lol

 

im thinking about just having a machine shop put them in. I prolly wont have the cams till about the middle of may because "comp" is waiting on more blanks from GM.

 

matt if your still worried about your springs. Call bates engineering. for valve springs 714-612-3639 or 714-545-0159 Bates Engineering offers an up-level stock-replacement valve spring (part number ESGV0001) that fits in the stock cylinder head with no modifications. This spring uses production locks and retainers. The springs will increase the production valve train limiting speed to over 7500

 

Dude you can do it....all you have to do really is put little white marks (whiteout is good) where the cams meet the gears, then the gears meet the chains....then all you have to do is line up the marks when you reassemble it and your set....piece of cake...don't worry about buy the J tool....

 

Didn't someone here say that the stage 1 and 2 cams wont work in Cobalts thanks to the cam position sensor?

I am not stating that this is true, it is just what someone here said.