MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

You have two MRZ Pulleys i thought we only needed the one? Was it hard to get to?

originaladrian

reading>you





in for results, thanks for taking the time to do this BTW

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

bite. me. Whats wrong with there links? there not working to look at the pulleys at mrz

REDFOCZ

subd for dynos

Red07SSNA

Subscribed

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

uploading vid right now, only got 1 vid as my camera died, well i got i vid and 5 seconds of the other one, lol...damn my camera...but i do have the dyno sheets

View Video on FQuick



some pics i took all strapped down

SI FTL

results?

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

OP has been updated

originaladrian

hey do u still have the UD pully on ur car?


im wondering if u can do a quick test with a voltmeter for me.

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

yes i kept the UDP on the car, i like it better, it made higher #'s

ill volt meter idle, 2k, 3k, 4k, 5k, and 6k for you later in the day...im working on getting my buddy some UDP kit for his truck now, he felt the diffrence they made in my car now he wants them :p

originaladrian

have a voltmeter hooked up or a multimeter handy?

that would have been the ideal test for the UD pully as most concern is with the alt spinning slower

thanks!, and make sure to do with headlights on and off. should see a bit of a jump, hope its not tooooo bad...

the problem i am having is running 3 decent sized amps. Have no problems with power now, want to keep it that way lol

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

no problem, they most likely will be with lights off as its day time right now, but i can kick them on for you, as long as you know what stock is :p cuz i dont

originaladrian

i have an analog voltmeter hooked up now but can get my multimeter out to get more accurate numbers to compare.

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

no problem, were do you want me to read the #'s from? the + and - in the engine bay??? or straight off the battery??? b/c the battery gets higher #'s than the engine bay does, atleast when i tested my battery installed on car...the engine said it was bad, but when i tested on the battery itself it said ti was good

originaladrian

best would actually be internal, from ur inside fuse box after the power is distributed. that will give you a good baseline of how ur car is running.

dont take from anything directly connected to the battery,

you also cant go wrong with taking measurements directly from the alt.

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

im using a pretty big volmeter, this thing has clamps made to grab onto a battery terminal so taking right off the alt aint happening :p

originaladrian

well at least find somewhere after the alt lol, wont really make a difference if its before.


u should invest in a radioshack multimeter lol, i use that thing allot, good investment.

dont kno if ur big ass battery tester will work LMAO

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

nothin wrong with ma battery tester :p i can test my battery with it, i can figure out if the alt is pushing enough, as it test the alt and the battery at once, based on the battery CCA and than does it thing, tells me if the alt is chargin good, or low, or if its bad, idk, but im crashing out for the day until tonight im tired, feel free to bomb my inbox with Q's and what not...ill answer them when i wake up

Section8cav

iTrader: (1)

once again i called it !
lightweight drivetrain parts dont add power they allow the engine to rev faster getting you to your powerband sooner, in effect making your car FASTER without actually adding any power.
After working on JN2's car with him i have to say thats a really nice pulley, looks and feels better than any ive ever had for mine.(as far as build quality and looks)
You guys should be thankful youve got Jn2 around, not many people would be willing to pay for dyno runs after every little mod like this

MP81

iTrader: (2)

Ugh.

You have to look at it this way.

Lets say, the standard pulley setup "uses" 10 HP to turn all the pulleys. (Arbitrary number).

Now, you install the lightweight pulley. The pulley setup now only "uses" 7HP to turn all the pulleys. You've "gained" 3HP. And it'll rev quicker, to boot.

Section8cav

iTrader: (1)

reving quicker is the Primary gain you get.
you will NOT get much if any hp gain from a pulley..i think JN2's Dyno charts prove that point.....a 0.7hp gain from stock?..and i called this before it was even dynoed.
now using the pulley in conjunction with a light flywheel,lighter rims,lighter crank, etc.
then it starts adding up and real gains are seen...but taking 3lbs off the crank pulley isnt gonna make much difference alone.

pacific cobalt

I payed $187 Shipped for the lightweight version so I would say it's worth it just for the better revs but yeah your right about how no one else would dyno both UD and leightweight pulleys just to compare the Hp gains
Way to go Jn2

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

lightweight flywheels is coming when my stock clutch starts going out, alot with a stg1 clutch, lol guy that dynos my car was aksing about my clutch, he was like omg it lasted 36,000 miles of drag racing, i was like umm...maybe 4-5 miles of all of those are drag racing miles

i do what i can

WickedSS2005

iTrader: (1)

Hope your motor doesn't fail from changing the harmonic balancer

Redsaturn13

^^^^ That's what I'm worried about. I'm gonna wait a little longer before I jump on these just to see how jn2 and the other guys makes out. I'm hoping for the best though because it sounds like a quality product that I'm interested in. Good luck