Ok guys, in a perfect world i would like to turbo my car but right now, i just do not see that happening. So instead i would like to go full bolt-on's and some nitrious. Now im a complete noob when it comes to anything beyond nuts and bolts. I have the following questions.

1) What would be a better choice? (keep in mind price is better low) LSJ manifold and DP or aftermarket? differences?

2) 2.4L intake manifold worth the upgrade on a 2.2 with the mods i want to do?

3) Is nitrious worth it if i just wanna break into the 14's?

4) Lightweight wheels is a must i assume, would 15" steeles work fine for this?

Keep in mine im a 2.2L sedan. MODS: modified Stock Intake, DC Sport Catback Exhaust

If you have any other imput please chime in

 

lsj mani/downpipe/cat would be less expensive and a nice gain. zzp i heard makes the best quality header/dp/highflow combo but replace the bolts cuz they are ****. grade 8 ftw

2.4 manifold i heard gives good top end gain, and i think i heard you lose torque in the bottom end

get aftermarket lightweight wheels, trust me you wont be disapointed.

and yes nitrous is worth it if you drag

btw did you get my payment on that intake?

 

Yea, shipped it out today. Ill PM tracking

 

haha rock on dude im pumped for it!

 

Personally, I would try to get a header from the classifieds. IMO the aftermarket headers are better than the GMPP "header".

People know where I stand on the intake manifold swap, so I won't beat a dead horse. lol

Go with the nitrous.

BTW, that rear sway bar is great.

 

Are the gains worth it?

 

It seems to work for some, mainly '07's. If you want to see what it did for my car, look in my gallery at the dyno comparison picture. The manifold one has the highest peak hp, but notice what it did to my tq curve. Hence why you don't see it in my sig.

 

Heres the thing dude, if your going to go turbo eventually, dont spend a lot on an exhaust header or dp. If your going to go supercharged with say a procharger or twinscrew or m62 you should spend the extra money now cuz it will benefit you later. Honestly for the price you would pay to finish up your exhaust, and to build a safe nitrous setup, you could be running a used m62 on your car making the amount of power you would with the nitrous but consistantly without having to fill a bottle.

I wanna see a lot more 2.2's boosted thats all =P

 

i dont plan on going FI. no time no $$ and i want a car where i dont have to work on it EVERY weekend haha. its a DD and i do not plan on buying another for a very long time.

 

Im thinking of doing a simular build
WHAT I GOT :
injen Cai
cat back exhaust

WHAT IM GETTING:
2.4 intake manifold
LSJ exhaust manifold (installing friday)
LSJ downpipe
75 wet shot

 

good luck man im in stalling my header/downpipe tommorow night im finally getting it after almost two weeks. hopefully yours is easier to get off the manifold wasnt to bad except for the last two bolts on the driverside that i didnt feel until i tried to pull it off.but the downpipe that was a BITCH the thre bolts at the manifold i had to use a cheater bar on and the two that hooh to the cat-back i couldnt get my car high enough to use the bar i ended up getting the stock lug wrench outputting both feet on the pipe and pulling from the side after about the second try it gave all i heard was that metal on metal but it was a fun time for me and my friends all trying to break those bolts.

 

1) What would be a better choice? (keep in mind price is better low) LSJ manifold and DP or aftermarket? differences?
most aftermarket header/DP are going to give you a better gain than the lsj manifold/DP, but the lsj is cheaper

2) 2.4L intake manifold worth the upgrade on a 2.2 with the mods i want to do?
depends. It gives you good gains... but it's alot higher in the rpm range. IMO it's not worth it unless you have a way to raise your stock rev limiter and camshafts that will make the power in that range

3) Is nitrious worth it if i just wanna break into the 14's?
In this case it might be needed. Not saying your car's slow, but with JUST boltons and no tuning or engine work going on... and with our limited aftermarket... it's gonna be rough without it

4) Lightweight wheels is a must i assume, would 15" steeles work fine for this?
lightweight wheels are good for reducing rotational mass and putting more power to the ground, but the thing you really want to look for is a wheel that'll allow you to put as much rubber as you can on the concrete. With the thin steel wheels it really limits your options.

If you do plan on going all motor, I would suggest at least swapping the pistons out for higher compression pistons and trying to find a set of camshafts that'll make the most with the stock rev limit... as we can't change it as of right now.