the highest i ever got the mpg was 34 when the car was brand new. so yes i reset the meter to see what it would do.

 

then it's normal, has nothing to do with the chip... gas mileage will always increase after a few thousand miles... you drove easier than normal, whether it was a conscious or subconcious decision, end of story... once you got back in stop and go traffic, it went down to where it should be because you coudln't baby it anymore. i'm totally NOT trying to knock you or anything, but the chip is worthless and if anything it's hurting your car

 

Haha! the funny thing is you all are wrong. This Guys name is Curtis who is in the picture you have. Hes one of my good friends and founder of Rocky Mountain Ecotec. His LS (Now his Wife's Daily driver) sounds bad ass with the cams and runs strong.

The Douche bag i was refering to works with a friend of mine and knows nothing about cars and shouldn't be allowed to spread lies about cobalts like he does. He claims 312 whp with only I/H/E/cams and "chips" from a 2.2! haha, no...

The "chips" do nothing and can be dangerous, but if anyone has tried them and somehow they miraculously (sp?) work than power to them, they wont be on my car...

 

I will agree, they sound bad ass. We love to try an trick people into beliveing its a small block at meets. Its awesome!

PS: Curtis (The one pictured) has never had any "chips" on his LS or SS/SC, You jumped the gun, This isn't the car I was talking about. This one is a million times better!

 

Oops my bad I must have missed that. Sorry.

 

I have one of those redline chips Ill take a pict of it cracked open.

 

Heres the redline power chip just cracked it open complete scam they say its a chip but its not its a resiter (as shown in the second pict) just like the rest of the resiters on ebay and destroy your engine heres your prof. And that vibration resitant special stuff to keep the so called chip safe from vibration is steel epoxy to make it feel heavy If you know some body who has this tell them to take it out.

 

I never installed this I got this for free from a friend because i covinced him to get a real tune.

 

i ve driven out to maryland and got close to 40 mpg with no mods (unless you count decals) on the interstate. the cobalt can get great gas mileage on its own with out any help for other "sources"

 

after I put the injen on my car I hit 51 mpg.

 

Who woulda thunk that my simple post would turn into a great big arguement?
Anyways thanks for the replies guys. ;-) much appreciated! wont be putting a resistor in this car. ;-)

 

Good to know That I smached that redline power thing up for a good cause.

 

whats the color code on that resistor and where is it connected? lets give the info and let him try it for .10 rather than $ 3-75 dollars on ebay.

 

Color codes doen't really matter. (Let me explain why) For GM cars whent he air temps drop the IAT increases the resistance to the ECM and thats how it knows it getting colder.
The higher the resistance the colder the ECM "thinks" it is. Now the lowest it can read is
to 10degrees below zero (if I remember correctly) The amounts of resistance vary widely depending on temperature thats why I say the color bands don't really matter. That and depending on what size resister you get the colors could be different.

All you need to do is get a pack of 10k ohm resisters, this will bottom out the ECM's temp settings as low as they will go. I tried this in my old Cavalier just to proove they don't do anything but suck down more gas and make your plugs foul quicker cause of the extra fuel. I did my tests and put them up on J-Body.org where they used to have a stickie for it. But I haven't been there in months so IDK if its gone or not.

 

I have a 07 cobalt lt and have found several air intake kits... for better sound and performance on the cobalt is it better to have short ram, cold air, or a full intake system. I'm not too concerned with gas mileage because it is already fantastic. Also, i noticed the IAT sensor hooked up to the stock intake is 6-pins. I am more used to using 2-pin on older cars. Can these wires hookup to most 2-pin intakes I have found on ebay or should I find a system with 6?

 

Dude! Not to sound like a dick but haven't you read any of this post? Those things DO NOT WORK. In fact I even gave an explanation of how they work, what they do, and why they most certainly do not work.

Save your money my friend as this is a gimmick!

 

 

i would like to see this vid of a 2.2 running chips I/H/E with 312 hp....LOL

 

I know that those resistors do not work. I'm talking about air intake systems... I wanted to know how the pins work for installing a retail air intake system not a stupid 5 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. So if you could please tell me how the 6-pin system works to install an air intake system (aem, injen, etc.)... thanks

 

Ok. I think your meaning how does it hook up to the intake right? If so the answer is that the intake tube has a hole cut into it and a bung welded on that the sensor fits into and then is screwed on to attach it to the tube.

You use the factory sensor in the aftermarket intake. Is that what you were needing?

 

I say go for it and dyno it. We need to put this argument to rest once and for all.

 

They do work but not as much as they say and at a cost of serious motor wear and exaust damage. take your pick maybe 5 horse and posible motor damage or get a real tune and know you got more horse's with minimal engine wear take your pick.

The reason why ricers are made fun of and hated is the fact that most of the owners go as cheap as posible and end up f#^king there stuff up or looking or sounding like ****. dont turn a cobalt into a one it makes the rest of us look bad.

 

5 is a very genorious guess. I'd venture more like a 1/4 to a 1/2 horse, maybe a pony.
But certainly not 5 horses!

 

Yah your right I typed to fast mabe 1/100Th of a horse

 

Have you found the EDIT button yet? LMAO!!!