Powell Rotated F23 Tranny Mounts
So, I need to upgrade my tranny mounts and am stuck between TTR polys and Powells rotated composite tranny mount.
Who has used the rotated Powell mount on an F23? Do you like it? What difference can you feel?
Thanks!
Who has used the rotated Powell mount on an F23? Do you like it? What difference can you feel?
Thanks!
Last edited by ml2242; Mar 1, 2013 at 11:11 AM.
They do. Dont mind Mkulrey
GDS, but to save you the trouble:
We make two types of rotated mounts currently :
• steel dom machined and welded with A class voided bushing all LNF/LSJ and similar construction with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline
• composite pressed and inserted with A class voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Stage 1 is recommended for almost all use.
Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the mount.
1. M35 rotated mounts and F23 rotated mounts.
Sometimes I have gotten feedback that folks have installed rotated mounts and have vibrations. That really should not happen, although the mounts will not have the same isolation as stock, the inserts are stiffer and there is no real way around that.
The reason behind the mounts is to stop power hop, caused in part by too much angle in the cv joint. The manual shift cars are not positioned in line axle out put to knuckle center line. To fix this, the mounts rotate the motor up at the back, down at the front, to move the axle out put shafts in better alignment with the axle output flange at the knuckle. The rotation was developed and engineered with help from GM, when I was under contract to produce Cobalt road race cars in 2004/2005.
So you know, some vendors (OTT and TTR) copied my mounts.
That said, I will be happy to help and advise both my customers and non customers, who have issues with mount installation, as best I can. My mounts are genuine Powell hardcore race parts.
GDS, but to save you the trouble:
We make two types of rotated mounts currently :
• steel dom machined and welded with A class voided bushing all LNF/LSJ and similar construction with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline
• composite pressed and inserted with A class voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Stage 1 is recommended for almost all use.
Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the mount.
1. M35 rotated mounts and F23 rotated mounts.
Sometimes I have gotten feedback that folks have installed rotated mounts and have vibrations. That really should not happen, although the mounts will not have the same isolation as stock, the inserts are stiffer and there is no real way around that.
The reason behind the mounts is to stop power hop, caused in part by too much angle in the cv joint. The manual shift cars are not positioned in line axle out put to knuckle center line. To fix this, the mounts rotate the motor up at the back, down at the front, to move the axle out put shafts in better alignment with the axle output flange at the knuckle. The rotation was developed and engineered with help from GM, when I was under contract to produce Cobalt road race cars in 2004/2005.
So you know, some vendors (OTT and TTR) copied my mounts.
That said, I will be happy to help and advise both my customers and non customers, who have issues with mount installation, as best I can. My mounts are genuine Powell hardcore race parts.
I've got Powell's F23 stage 1 mounts, no wheel hop, only get vibes when I kick the AC or defrost on. It also got rid of axel vibe I had from lowering springs. Install was simple, I haven't had any issues and so far they have about 15k on them no track days (its to slow for a track) but I have had some fun through switchbacks in the mountains.
I need some F23 mounts too.. there's just not enough people running F23 mounts or good how to's to make me confident to buy some. idk why i'm putting them off. I don't mind the wheel hop because i don't slam my car around, I feather the gas to get it to stick. What i really can't stand is the drive train slop. That's making me pissed.
I was surprised the F23 cars have it so bad the power hop that is....could be the 16 inch wheels make it worse, I dunno. Either way I got the solution. Its just a question of how much hop do you take before you spring for the bux for mounts. Problem is, the F23 requires a new mount as core, drives the cost up, but its waaaaay less than a broken transmission. Good luck.
I need some F23 mounts too.. there's just not enough people running F23 mounts or good how to's to make me confident to buy some. idk why i'm putting them off. I don't mind the wheel hop because i don't slam my car around, I feather the gas to get it to stick. What i really can't stand is the drive train slop. That's making me pissed.
The drivetrain movement is the main issue for me too... if I can get a 100% YES these mount will fix this I would buy them right now... the issue is the only thing they are advertised for is their elimination of wheel hop which I'm not that worried about as this is my DD and I don't floor it unless I'm already moving therefore my wheel hop is at a minimum now as it is....
I was surprised the F23 cars have it so bad the power hop that is....could be the 16 inch wheels make it worse, I dunno. Either way I got the solution. Its just a question of how much hop do you take before you spring for the bux for mounts. Problem is, the F23 requires a new mount as core, drives the cost up, but its waaaaay less than a broken transmission. Good luck.
to really eliminate the drive train lash, a spaced LNF rear mount with my F23 front rotated set up would do both. You would be very happy. Add 65 dollars plus shipping. cheers
Were you running a solid upper motor mount before you threw on the rotated tranny mount? I have solid upper and lower motor mounts (Bwoody) That I need to install if those will eliminate my drivetrain movement I'm not sure I would buy the tranny mounts... I just have ZERO time to install them becuase I'm working 60 hours a week while studying my ass off for the MCAT
Were you running a solid upper motor mount before you threw on the rotated tranny mount? I have solid upper and lower motor mounts (Bwoody) That I need to install if those will eliminate my drivetrain movement I'm not sure I would buy the tranny mounts... I just have ZERO time to install them becuase I'm working 60 hours a week while studying my ass off for the MCAT 

The install time is only like an hour, its really easy, hardest part is figuring out how to get the damn torque wrench to fit right
No solid upper mount, not sure how much that helps with drivetrain movement, Powells mounts literally rotate the engine its noticeable (which alignes the drivetrain like he's said), didn't take measurements or pics, but you can tell the difference. Not sure what the lower engine mount you're talking about if its the one in the drivers' side between the engine and crash bar/radiator, thats what Powells mount replaces. Is Bwoody's mount supposed to be a rotated mount or just a solid mount?
The install time is only like an hour, its really easy, hardest part is figuring out how to get the damn torque wrench to fit right
beer might have had some effect on that
The install time is only like an hour, its really easy, hardest part is figuring out how to get the damn torque wrench to fit right
There are some light vibes. I won't deny it, but the vibes are temperature sensitive. Extremely minimal during the heat of the summer, and more noticeable during the dead of winter. Certainly not objectionable even during the dead of winter. You're in Boston, so not too different from my weather temps in Toronto. All this said, I strongly state that I would not ever go back to stock mounts after having driven my car with John's mounts for the last couple of years. It will be the best $150 you can spend on your car.
http://www.*******************/forum...ing-impression


