Well starting my build thread,right now the main use of this thread will be to gather info and keep organized/parts gathering and troubleshoot and all the other fun stuff...If you have parts shoot me a Pm

Updated on 7/16/2010
Yellow=ACQUIRED PARTS
Parts List: Updated 7/3
Eaton M62 Supercharger
Supercharger Gasket
Stock LSJ Intake Manifold
Intake Manifold Bottom Mount
Intake Manifold Gasket (Part #12597855)
2.5 Bar Map/Intake Temp Sensor (on upper left of LSJ manifold)
2.5 Bar Pigtail (Part #88988320) not needed you can hard wire it from becks howto @css.net
Bosch/LSJ Intercooler Pump
Intercooler Pump Wiring Pigtail or Butt Connecters
Intercooler Pump Mounting Bracket- I will custom fab it.
2007 ss Stock heat Exchanger
Heat Exchanger Brackets
42.5# Injectors (recommended)
Injector Harness
Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
Boost/Vacuum Gauge
Stage 2 Belt (Part# 12597993; requires one rib be cut off)
Custom Idler Pulley with Mounting Bracket
Extended Upper Radiator Hose
Coolant Reservoir Tank (Cobalt or Ion Recommend)
NGK Copper Spark Plugs (Part# LFR6A-11)
SS/SC intake
10ft. x ¾” I.D. Hose
10ft x ¼” I.D. Hose
4ft. x ½” I.D. Hose
Small and Large Hose clamps.
3 x 1/8th NPT ¼” Barb Fittings

• GM Bolts Needed
- 11516342 – LSJ Intake Manifold Mount To Block Bolts -(M8 X 1.25 x 60) (Qty 2)
- 11589214 – LSJ Supercharger to Intake Manifold Bolts (Qty4)
- 11900248 – LSJ TB To SC Bolts (Qty4)

• Standard Bolts Needed (Not GM)
- LSJ 1 Bar MAP To Intake Manifold M6 x 1.0 x 25 (Qty 1)
- LSJ Intake Manifold Mount Bracket To Intake Manifold M10 X 1.50 x 50 (Qty 1)
- LSJ Rear IC Pump Bracket To Intake Manifold Mount M8 X 1.25 X 25 –
- LSJ Front IC Pump Bracket To Rear IC Pump Bracket M8 X 1.25 X 35 – (Qty 2)
- LSJ Idler Pulley To Block M10 X 1.50 x 75 (Qty 1)
- LSJ Idler Pulley To Alternator Bracket M8 x 1.25 X 25 (Qty 1)
- LSJ Intake Manifold To Block M6 x 1.0 X 75 (Qty 2)
- LSJ Alternator Bracket To Block M8 X 1.25 X 130 (Qty 3)
- LSJ SC Bypass Valve To SC M8 X 1.25 X 20 (Qty 2)
- LSJ Lower Tensioner To Bracket M8 x 1.25 x 35
- LSJ Upper Tensioner To Bracket M8 X 1.25 x 40… not standard bolt though. Has to be metric hex socket bolt.
- LSJ Intake Manifold Bolts M6 X 1.00 x 25 (Qty 4)
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References:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/how-beck%92s-2-4l-supercharged-build-walkthrough-80620/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show....2+supercharge
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show....2+supercharge
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...t=supercharger
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...t=supercharger


Diagrams:




___________________________________
Notes:
Price reference (tFrom a cobalt ss member,its over priced, If you ask me)
SUPERCHARGER WITH 10K $300
INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH 10K $250
INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET NEW GM $40
60# INJECTORS NEW OTTP $159.99
FUEL INJECTOR HARNESS NEW OTTP $30.00
2.8 MODULAR PULLEY SYSTEM NEW OTTP $90.00
OTTP LARGEST HEAT EXCHANGER NEW $175.00
IC PUMP NEW OTTP $115.00
NEW GM BRACKETS FOR THE IC PUMP $100.00
NEW GM COBALT S/C BELT TENSIONER $212.00
GM NEW IDLER $40.00 $20
GM STAGE 2 BELT NEW $49.99
NEW LSJ GM THROTTLE BODY $120.00 $100
NEW GM THROTTLE BODY PIGTAIL $90.00
NEW INJEN COLD AIR INTAKE FROM SUMMIT $256.00
ALL NUTS BOLTS AND MISC FROM GM AROUND $150-$200
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Current Build figures.


6-21-2010
Did some more clean up today, and welded in the dual pass mod on the end plate...

I may just paint the ribs yellow and leave the base metal and hit it with some clear.

Before




mid way





well still not building waiting and waiting for parts to come in...but it gives me time to make things nice....restored the lsj throttle body, final pic will be uploaded tomorrow.

before


after




7-3-2010
Intake Clean up
Intake came in, seller didnt mention the condition, o well it was $30, came with a crappy dry flow, Im going to replace it with a oiled k&n.

Before

Prep


After


7/5 little detail work on the throttle body


Changed the paint scheme on the Eaton


Intake Complete


Painted the oil catch and labeled the out and in and added a barb for a beather


Gm parts came in

 

well pulley swap is like a big waste. cutting the one rib off is better off. i did it and its easy.

h/e stay with stock and aftermarket. well have both of them.

wideband is a must need cuz you need it to properly tune it correctly. and it tells you if you are running lean or rich.

and the injector harness you want to use your stock one and just get the pigtails off of the 42 or 60 harness and solder them to your stock harness. i can help you out with that also.

 

good luck also be doing this soon so hopefully you will keep this updated and also help me out with pms as much as possible. What dp are you going to run on it?

 

Thanks for the info

Is this a correct wideband, local shop is selling it for $120
2” AEM wideband Lambda Ratio gauge

 

yea that is just need to know if it comes with the O2 bung also.

 

As long as it has the wideband O2 sensor with it then its good.

I dont get the whole claim that the rib cutting could cuase slippage, but GM said it was perfectly ok when they designed the kit for the J-bodies and sent a LSJ belt.

 

cobra HE

 

heard there junk/no better then stock?

 

*click*

 

My exhaust system is stock...Is it something I can hold off on? or should I at the very least go with the lsj exhaust manifold?

 

ive heard differently, anywho, eventually i want a zzp he s3 i guess

 

thats why im asking, still wondering now, I guess price wise the cobra is the cheaper option correct?

 

definately, i got mine 60 bucks

basically i want to get it running first, stock HE plus cobra HE then later run a ZZp HE alone

 

Questions??????????????

1. Rib cutting? cant we just swap over to lsj pulleys to avoid this?
cut a rib off, swapping pullies is a waste of money

2. I was given the Stock SS heat exchanger, i hear they aren't the best, What is a good Upgrade?
use it along with another h/e and you'll be fine, hell the stock one would be ok on the stock pulley
3. Wideband, Is it necessary?
YES
4. whats being done to the injector harness, wiring wise?
just repin the harness, easiest way to do it w/out cutting, sodering or anything of the sorts...

 

And yes on getting the Lsj exhaust manifold at the very least...?

is there a diagram for the repin? I have no problem soldering, but the less cutting of wires the better imo.

thanks alot

 

i know there is a how to i believe in both Beck and Hunterkiller89s how to install m62 etc etc. as part of the installation

 

Hunter cuts and solders the lsjs on to the stock harness, Ill check becks, I have it printed, I may have over looked it, but I thought his repin diagram is for the lsj throttle body in his thread.

 

I remember when we were calling JN2 during my build, mostly about the TB repin

 

lsj manifold is crap, get a real header, it will work i guess, hell the stock one will work, but it will be a restriction in your exhaust...and why would you need a diagram for a repin? its simeple, look at injector 1 on your harness and injector 1 on the other, you will notice every injector has 1 wire that is the same color, and the others will vary, you will swap over all the varying wires from the harness, than swap over all the like colored ones, and your done...

 

major duh on just looking at it, lol you helped alot thou thanks

so if the wires just need to be swapped around, why were people cutting them and swapping?

what header/system are you running?

 

no prob, to remove the pins from the harness, you have to take out the silver clip, than use some small needle nose pliers and from the pin side, pinch the pin, than push it out slowl, be sure not to break the pin, when you pinch it, pinch it 3/4 of the way down so you have room to move it back...they will just pop out and you can pull it out...pretty simple, and a lot cleaner looking...i didnt really like the idea of cutting, same goes for the throttle body swap, only its a bit different and the pigtail is female not male like the injectors, for it, u need a ice pick to push in a small piece from the femal pin, than pull it out from the wire side, and place it on the correct location...and for the MAF, just unloom the harness and you will have all the room needed to move it w/out cutting...i have personally confirmed this method to work on a 06 cobalt, 07 cobalt, and a 2.2 HHR...no cutting necessary...althought the 07 balt runs the MAF wire thru the coil wires, so its a bit time consuming to do it on them bc of all the wires getting tangled, but still just a 5-10min job...

 

thats great to know that the MAF needs no cutting, cool!

 

that makes sense

 

it does when you think about it right? lol Im just wondering how wound up are the wires

 

they are not wound really bad. Jn2 is right it really only takes 10mins to relocate.