2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

These are supposed to be like this right?

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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:48 AM
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1LowLS's Avatar
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From: Queen Creek,AZ
These are supposed to be like this right?

Car wouldn't run and made some awful noises so we pulled the head and looked this

then this


then saw these

and now this beacause.........................


Streetcar

Timing came 2 teeth off on the intake side and bent every intake valve.Got a donor head and robbed the valves out,Lapped them in to get em seated.Compression tested everything after.180 across the board.Thanks to EvoFire and Tundraboarder666(his car)Was Work but we got it done in 2 days.Good times.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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oops...at least you got it done!
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:56 AM
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From: Queen Creek,AZ
yeah.wasnt too bad.had issues with a oil line but thats about all the snags we hit.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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did you guys use the compression tester from Autozone when you went 180 across the board?
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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kinda off topic but i have the same turbo kit. what heater core line did u tap into for ur turbo coolant tee? I tapped into the heater core line going to the thermostat. I couldnt manage to use the other line bc of how it is bent/made.

Is this the same line u tapped into? hard to see in the pic.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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From: Queen Creek,AZ
Originally Posted by IonNinja
did you guys use the compression tester from Autozone when you went 180 across the board?
yes
Originally Posted by PsychoCam
kinda off topic but i have the same turbo kit. what heater core line did u tap into for ur turbo coolant tee? I tapped into the heater core line going to the thermostat. I couldnt manage to use the other line bc of how it is bent/made.

Is this the same line u tapped into? hard to see in the pic.
and it looks that way.its the hose to the right that its tapped into.Tundra and I installed the turbo a couple years ago so I dont remember to be honest and Im not by the car but it looks to be the one that goes to the tstat
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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ya mine has been hooked up for 3 yrs and i have had weird over heat issues with my car. only when it is cold out side will my car start to over heat but if it is hot as hell out i never overheat.

I think its bc of the hot coolant being dumped back into the thermostat housing but i have no idea. I learned to deal with it. I dont drive my car in winter anyways so I try to avoid driving it on really cool days if all possible
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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From: Queen Creek,AZ
thats really weird.We ahve no issues like that at all.you have the return going to the small bleeder hose that goes to the top of the surge tank?Maybe try switching heater hose as well?hmmmm
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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how did the timing mess up? had you removed the head previously?
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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yep everything was hooked up correctly. after so many yrs of not figuring it out, i narrowed it down to 2 causes that i think it can be.

1.) air pocket in the system somwhere but after so long it should have worked its way out. (my coolant level is accurate when car is cold and hot)
2.) the return line for turbo coolant needs to be relocated and it could have eff'd up my thermostat.

Honestly i have ran it this long and not one problem (knock on wood) I dont think i am changing a thing. it is a pita to get back there. I know u know lol
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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From: Queen Creek,AZ
Originally Posted by Beck
how did the timing mess up? had you removed the head previously?
Jumped teeth when we turned boost to 55 psi and rev'd to 9500rpm.......jk 78lbs valve spring install.When assembled,intake was 1 tooth off and we "corrected" it the wrong way,meaning it was 1 tooth retarded and we thought it was advanced.bad assumption.You know what they say,you know what happens when you assume,you bend valves
Originally Posted by PsychoCam
yep everything was hooked up correctly. after so many yrs of not figuring it out, i narrowed it down to 2 causes that i think it can be.

1.) air pocket in the system somwhere but after so long it should have worked its way out. (my coolant level is accurate when car is cold and hot)
2.) the return line for turbo coolant needs to be relocated and it could have eff'd up my thermostat.

Honestly i have ran it this long and not one problem (knock on wood) I dont think i am changing a thing. it is a pita to get back there. I know u know lol
Most def.I would leave it as well.Maybe get a aftermarket temp gauge to make sure it's a false reading or not.just put the sensor in a different location
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:06 PM
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From: Pittsburgh
Ya I have an interceptor and it reads exactly as the dic and I had an autometer gauge and it was right on the money as well.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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What did you do, just try to jump it again? It's easy enough to re-set the timing properly...
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:28 PM
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From: Queen Creek,AZ
As stated.we thought it was a tooth advanced.had it backwards so when we "corrected" it.It was 2 teeth retarded.Luckily echaust cam was spot on so only had to replace the intake valves.Just a brain fart on our part but we got her running last night.Started 1st try and runs like a champ
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 1LowLS
yes
Damn guess I better start saving for a bottom end build
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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From: Queen Creek,AZ
He's on lower compression pistons as well.you gotta do 4 revolutions on each cylinder.if I only did 3 it would show 120.the 4th and any more than that stayed at 180
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 04:59 AM
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Yeah mine always reads 120… i'm pretty sure I did more them 4 revolutions but hopefully I just messed something up
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 05:30 AM
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From: Chandler AZ
uh oh... lol
Sounds like it could be time for a build soon Jerry.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:28 AM
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From: Queen Creek,AZ
Originally Posted by IonNinja
Yeah mine always reads 120… i'm pretty sure I did more them 4 revolutions but hopefully I just messed something up
lemme know. I can do this **** in my sleep lol
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