Throttle Body Porting
Throttle Body Porting
I got bored and wanted more oomph, so I looked around for free hp.
I started by researching the dos and donts of porting.
On a NA, I made sure that I made the opening as wide as possible so that the transition of the air coming in from the Injen CAI was uninterrupted. I also made it into a large funnel shape but did not remove much metal near the throttle plate.
It was more like a match porting for the CAI to the TB, but yes it has a lot more space going up to the plate.
The porting was dramatic as the lip was reaching the thickness of a butter knife blade.
At first, the car felt bogged and then after 10 restarts... the car was peeling wheel.
In fact all areas of the RPM band were improved, a lot.
No more delay on the high end with runaway RPMs then slowly building up speed.
The difference was dramatic and I want to keep it like this.... but...
I also did this to my Sunfire. Months later the engine blew, as in chunks of metal on the ground.
It too was so much more up and go. I have done big bore TBs before, but for some reason on this engine, it reacted a lot more positively. Night and day difference.
The MPG went down on both cars, so I know the car compensated for the extra air coming in with fuel.
The factors on the Sunfire are:
It had 195k miles.
The weather was around 50 degrees out when it happened.
The gas was 87 octane.
The engine sounded great, no odd sounds.
No pinging, no backfires, no anything sound wise.
I noted a small oil leak driver's side front of the engine a few years ago, but it rarely put oil on the ground.
I did keep topping the oil off.
In the 2 weeks before the engine blew, the car had a vibration when hitting 60-68 MPH and I thought the tires needed rebalancing. Now I think the engine was the problem and something internal was happening.
Any opinions on what could have happened?
I think maybe an oiling issue which seized a piston.
Can't imagine it was lean, I never got a CEL.
Any input is appreciated.
I started by researching the dos and donts of porting.
On a NA, I made sure that I made the opening as wide as possible so that the transition of the air coming in from the Injen CAI was uninterrupted. I also made it into a large funnel shape but did not remove much metal near the throttle plate.
It was more like a match porting for the CAI to the TB, but yes it has a lot more space going up to the plate.
The porting was dramatic as the lip was reaching the thickness of a butter knife blade.
At first, the car felt bogged and then after 10 restarts... the car was peeling wheel.
In fact all areas of the RPM band were improved, a lot.
No more delay on the high end with runaway RPMs then slowly building up speed.
The difference was dramatic and I want to keep it like this.... but...
I also did this to my Sunfire. Months later the engine blew, as in chunks of metal on the ground.
It too was so much more up and go. I have done big bore TBs before, but for some reason on this engine, it reacted a lot more positively. Night and day difference.
The MPG went down on both cars, so I know the car compensated for the extra air coming in with fuel.
The factors on the Sunfire are:
It had 195k miles.
The weather was around 50 degrees out when it happened.
The gas was 87 octane.
The engine sounded great, no odd sounds.
No pinging, no backfires, no anything sound wise.
I noted a small oil leak driver's side front of the engine a few years ago, but it rarely put oil on the ground.
I did keep topping the oil off.
In the 2 weeks before the engine blew, the car had a vibration when hitting 60-68 MPH and I thought the tires needed rebalancing. Now I think the engine was the problem and something internal was happening.
Any opinions on what could have happened?
I think maybe an oiling issue which seized a piston.
Can't imagine it was lean, I never got a CEL.
Any input is appreciated.
Update, on my Cobalt 2.2 it also has a ported TB.
I had the CAI on it for a long time, along with the 2.25" catback.
The TB was ported a bit and I noticed such a big difference, I ported it more.
The thing is, it was even better. No lag! No more punching it and then years later the car accelerates.
Then I had an idea, on the passenger's side of the bumper... the CAI filter hides right behind those fake slats. I took an exacto knife and cut one of the slats out. Did it so it looks stock. So it blows a lot more cool air in. I even made a slat in the wheel well to let excess air out to flow. Gets to cool the brake a little.
Even better up and go.
But then the car threw a lean code.
The history of the real cause:
I had the fuel pump replaced 3 years ago... and it has made odd noises since I got it.
Almost like something was crawling around in the trunk.
I had it checked and a mechanic right after the pump was installed, he said the pump sounds bad.
I took it back and the mechanic said, I will be ok.
It was running not at full pressure they said, but within norm... I was mad.
It was new, and should have ran 100%.
Well 3 years later the lean code is thrown.
I am not sure if they replaced the controller when they put in the new pump 3 yrs back.
So I get a new pump, and the code disappears.
They said they replaced the controller as recommended when replacing a pump.
Car runs like a dream and hits 60 in 7.8 seconds.
The new question:
So...I have a new fuel pump, controller, Injen 2nd gen tuned CAI, 2.25" catback, and ported TB...
If I add a ZZP shorty header and 2.25" downpipe and a 2.25" cat 400 cell, will I go back to lean?
Also, I am hoping to get to 60 in 7.6 seconds. That is my goal, is it attainable with bolt ons and a ported TB? Or do I need HP Tuners? I have an 07 so HP Tuners supports it.
Thanks guys for any input.
I know some here have full bolt-on 2.2s, anyone throwing CELs???
I had the CAI on it for a long time, along with the 2.25" catback.
The TB was ported a bit and I noticed such a big difference, I ported it more.
The thing is, it was even better. No lag! No more punching it and then years later the car accelerates.
Then I had an idea, on the passenger's side of the bumper... the CAI filter hides right behind those fake slats. I took an exacto knife and cut one of the slats out. Did it so it looks stock. So it blows a lot more cool air in. I even made a slat in the wheel well to let excess air out to flow. Gets to cool the brake a little.
Even better up and go.
But then the car threw a lean code.
The history of the real cause:
I had the fuel pump replaced 3 years ago... and it has made odd noises since I got it.
Almost like something was crawling around in the trunk.
I had it checked and a mechanic right after the pump was installed, he said the pump sounds bad.
I took it back and the mechanic said, I will be ok.
It was running not at full pressure they said, but within norm... I was mad.
It was new, and should have ran 100%.
Well 3 years later the lean code is thrown.
I am not sure if they replaced the controller when they put in the new pump 3 yrs back.
So I get a new pump, and the code disappears.
They said they replaced the controller as recommended when replacing a pump.
Car runs like a dream and hits 60 in 7.8 seconds.
The new question:
So...I have a new fuel pump, controller, Injen 2nd gen tuned CAI, 2.25" catback, and ported TB...
If I add a ZZP shorty header and 2.25" downpipe and a 2.25" cat 400 cell, will I go back to lean?
Also, I am hoping to get to 60 in 7.6 seconds. That is my goal, is it attainable with bolt ons and a ported TB? Or do I need HP Tuners? I have an 07 so HP Tuners supports it.
Thanks guys for any input.
I know some here have full bolt-on 2.2s, anyone throwing CELs???
Last edited by Mike85220; May 5, 2017 at 08:50 PM.


