ok so i have the base 2.2 2dr cobalt.... I have the weapon R intake, pacesetter header, highflow cat, 2 inch piping and a new muffler..... i made out with 98 Hp to the wheels, i want to get rid of the car... i mean 98? its weak..... i did however get 155lbs of torque but still 98Hp,,,, and i couldnt get a full run because of the goddamn limiter cutting me off at 105Mph.... if the limiter gets removed eventually will my Hp go up more? or is this accurate? What are you stock base guys getting

 

thats gotta be wrong man a chevy aveo might have 98 to the wheels the ls holds its own against other base cars...I beat tons of 1.8 06 civics in my ride

 

i got 3 runs and thats what it came up with

 

what gear where you going in? and where is the peak at? or was it a mustang dyno?

 

yea, something isn't right. It's rated at 145 crank hp, and a 98 wheel hp reading on a STOCK motor would be almost a 30% drivetrain power loss...something doesn't add up.

 

That can't be right, something has to be wrong

 

yeah dude somethin is wrong i only have a cai and i dynoed at 118hp

 

i think i lost my sheet

 

i believe they pulld at 4th gear.... idk what a mustang dyno is, it was a wideband dyno i think its called.....

 

if the revlimiter stoped you then you didn't get very high in the RPM band, i would guess only 4K or so. Have them do a 3rd gear pull or take the rev limiter of and do a 4th, you weren't able to get high enough to where the hp tops out.

 

thats not right because the ecos in the Jbodys dyno at 130-125to the wheels. my friend had 125whp on his auto 03 cav. my car with the 2200 OHV put down 93hp.

 

u cant take the limiter off.... not yet anyways, so you ghuys think i have nothing to worry about, its just because they cant get the full gear? and they couldnt do a 3rd gear pull, its an auto so it would just shift

 

I read through all the posts and let tell you a few things about your car.

First of Chevypowered had a good point. but 3rd gear pull is not going to be accurate. you want a 1 to 1 ratio through the transmission.

The engine is rated 145HP at the crank not at the wheels. 15% drivetrain loss = 123HP.

You got some great torque #'s that is what gives you speed! be proud of that. Dyno type makes a difference in readings. Mustang dyno is a brand and it is way different than others. the same car that gets 200HP on a dynojet will get 160 on a mustang just to throw out some #'s

now this is a prime example of need to go to the track and dyno. use a GTECH pro they are amazingly accurate for times.

good luck.

PS the reason your car has a limiter on the top MPH is because the car is more than capable of more but the tires aren't. So if you plan on changing that portion make sure you get rims and z rated tires first. no use in going fast to blow yourself up.

 

ive got BF goodrich G-Force KDW2's their more than enough to get rid of my limiter....thanks for your help guys, my self esteem went way down after o herd 98 hp

 

so will my torque be higher too then if i ever get past the limiter?

 

Prolly not, you wont make anymore torque than whats past your peak, and if i remember right, about 4800rpm give or take is the peak rpm for torque on a stokc ecotec, but i dunno what rpm u were at when it cut out on you, but 155ft lbs of torque to the wheels is badass. More than any honda s2000, civic si, Mazda 3, toyota corolla xrs, or the like could ever put out in stock trim. Be proud of that at least til you get some things figured out.

 

IMO dont waste your money with Z rated...thats a waste for your car...get W rated, probably a lot cheaper and more logical. Z rated is for cars that can go 160+ i believe. You know, you are probably better off doing a 3rd gear pull and maybe letting it shift because if you floor it, it SHOULD run to the rev limiter.

 

why is everyone so hell bent on 1:1 ratios? yeah it is more accurate but how much more accurate could it possibly be? And with the gear ratios being what they are can anyone in here get a 1:1 run? we are talking small percentages. If you see the dyno of a ss that can do a complete dyno run in third and fourth the difference is maybe 4-8whp and even less torque. I could be wrong but a dyno is intended to gauge current overall power. If a person does a 3rd gear pull on a dyno then puts some parts on and does another run it should show a difference of the new parts just as accurate as a 4th gear pull because you would determine the difference in percentages.

 

click to make bigger

 

ok you guys really need to read before you post no offence but its getting anoying..... i already said i have tires, and so does my mod list, second i cannot do a 3rd gear pull i said i have and auto.... sry just pissy lol

 

wow, 3500 rpm, your nowhere close to your peak HP.

I say dyno in 3rd. Its doesnt make a big difference. Maybe 1-4 hp.

 

I HAVE AN AUTO!!!!! i just said that 1 post ago and way up there^

 

does your auto have the ability to cycle gears 1 2 or 3?

edit:
P
N
D
1
2
3

 

no its 1/2/d lol i already thought of that while i was there

 

god dude that sucks ...