yellowshowbalt

so this is what im having probs with i parked my car 3 weeks in side the garage and just yesterday i decited to try to drive it with my 2 broken arms started it up let it warm up then pulled out of my drive way put it in first let off on the clutch and dident even get to 15 mph. and it throw the reduced engine power code. i was like wtf. so i limped it back down the street to my home and unpluged the batt. to reset all codes. started it up it was just fine put it in first then the same thing again. reset the computer and looked it up in my service manual it says its a coolent problem. so this morning i checked all plugins and made sure the coolent was at the cold mark. i started the car and let it idle in till the cooling fans came on and went off it was at a consistent 188-190 deg. and it was full of coolent. but what weird is i can back all the way up and down the street but as soon as its starts to go forward it throws this code i dont under stand why it started now. when i parked it it was running great. then i wrecked my bike and it sat for 3 1/2 to 4 weeks give or take and now i cant drive it at all i dont want to go back to stock but if i dont figure this out im going to have to. please if any one knows why this is. could you help me out. all so the car runs great in till i rev it 2-3 times or just put it in first then it throws this code . takeing it to the dealer is not a option they cant fixit and dont even know where to start and im not paying them to work like blind mice.

06blackg85ss

iTrader: (1)

usually on the ss/sc it throughs that when there are differing readings btwn the maf and the map sensor according to the tps. AKA limp mode.

HackAbuse

So you checked your car with a code scanner?

yellowshowbalt

no i dont have one

if i dont fix this soon ill have to cancel my races is there any more info about this???

HackAbuse

Get the car code checked, that will tell you what your problem is. You should know this by now...

Red07SSNA

Unless you have a piggyback system, I'd be willing to bet money that the code you are setting is a P0068 - airflow incorrect/too high for throttle position. When this code sets it will instantly put your car in Reduced Power Mode. If you put on a supercharger without computer tuning you are simply shoving air into the engine and the ECU thinks you have an intake leak or a problem with the throttle body. Since the TB is electronically controlled GM has installed several safeguards in the event the TB (or an intake leak too) goes haywire. If the throttle shaft breaks, for example, the car could simply take-off on it's own when the driver didn't even have their foot on the accelerator. The safeguards will shut down the engine to prevent this (reduced power mode). I'd bet that part of the reflash the 2.0 crowd gets with the stage kits is to tell the computer the new airflow parameters with the increased intake air due to the smaller SC pulley.

I'm curious as to how the turbocharging crowd is handling this -- anyone with a TC on a 2.2 work this issue? How are you avoiding the P0068 due to the increased airflow?

Sw4y1313

try unplugging your maf? see if the car will operate while its unplugged. Also, you dont have to reset the computer to get it out of limp mode, you just have to keep the car off for about 30 seconds then start it up again. What if you throw it into 2nd gear and take off, does the same thing happen? Watch your AFR in first gear, what could be happening is your going REALLY lean in 1st because you dont have to put your foot on the gas as far to get it going. It could be leaning out in the upper rpms because your not going WOT. Also, try going into WOT before 2k rpms and get into 2nd gear as fast as possible, see if it still goes into limp mode. Datalog or have a passenger watch your AFR.

Halfcent

Go spend 50 bucks and buy a code scanner. Stop putting stuff on you engine without the proper tools and planning.

yellowshowbalt

ok look this is whats up . the car all of a suden started this like instantly. kill the bat to erase all codes. ill start the car and then theres a instant reduced engine power code after like 15 sec. it doesent mater if the map-mas- are unpluged or what. the car has been sitting for 3-4 weeks i went out and started it then it would run but and idle but as soon as you started to move bam REP. code im not sure why? it was in great running order. there was nouthing changed i drove the car for 2 weeks strait no probs just smiles! and then crashed my bike and couldent drive for 3-4 weeks started it late sat. after noon all was fine no codes just running. went up the street and bam code. for the first time ever. got it home then it would idle only soom as you give it gas bam code. now soon as you start it instant code. my question is why did it run good then great and now bairly.???? ps wheres the best place to get the code scanner??

HackAbuse

go to advanced auto parts, they'll check it for free

yellowshowbalt

your funny

HackAbuse

Im serious dude

They do code checks for free, i'm not trying to joke you

roccityroller

Lol i don't think that was his intention. they should sell them and some of them will even rent those tools out so ask at the desk.

aren't you using an smt-piggy back unit? i thought that would allow you to override alot of the transmissions from sensors to pcm. sounds like the stock pcm is finally figuring out that it is seeing positive air pressure.


lol but he can't get the car there. hence the problem

2.2ionjentzsch

I am TC here. I am also running smt-6 so it pulls timing and things are running great.

The only code I have had is: P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input

HackAbuse

At every Advanced Auto Parts, they will check it for free, you dont even have to rent it.

Of course you have to bring your car there to get it done though

yellowshowbalt

i know they do. so does autozone. but autozones wont read me it just cant connect. ill buy one tomarow and see what code it is but why would it all of a suden do this.

Sw4y1313

i had the same problem with autozone's readers, they give a "cannot connect" error. i went to my dealer and they were able to read it just fine. i think you just need a newer reader.

Let us know what code its throwing. i remember you saying you hooked a MAP sensor up to your setup somehow. its it hooked up to the smt-7 or to your stock computer, cuz that will give you problems. also read up on voltage clamps. you may need to do that. i dunno if the smt-7 can do the same as the smt-6.

chevysalesman614

how are you gonna race people with 2 broken arms?

Red07SSNA

Where did you purchase your smt6? The powerperfect website doesn't list chevrolet/GM on their list of supported vehicles. Thanks!

Dustin

I bought an SMT7 off ebay...

Halfcent

Low input? I would have thought the opposite. Unless the circuit measures the difference between barometric and manifold, then it makes sense.

Sw4y1313

I can tell you for a fact that its supported. Mine came from Alpine. You can always call them and ask if you can purchase one through them. I would ask Kevin with SMP(Speed Mafia). He can get you anything =P

Yeah what i was thinking.

Trevor, it sounds like you may need to clamp the signal. Ask dave if its possible. I never received that CEL, the ones i got were 02 Sensor, and Misfire. I have a 3rd but has nothing to do with the turbo or smt6. its a Throttle position circuit switch code, and the symptoms are "bucking" at random rpms(only happens in 5th while cruising at around 3k). Basically like you are adding and removing your foot from the gas rappidly. GM says its exposed wiring in the trunk that has been rubbing and needs to be re-taped.

Witt

Move the MAP sensor back to a location after the supercharger. Part throttle conditions are giving you low map with moderate maf reading resulting in a failure of a MAP/MAF correlation check.

Did you ever get the SMT7 installed and working?

2.2ionjentzsch

I will shoot Kev a pm about it and get Dave's e-mail from him, unless you have it.

yellowshowbalt

ok yes the smt-7 is up and working. i got a cade scanner and this is the only code i have
P0223- Throttle-pedal position sensor switch B circuit high input so i think the throttle body is bad?? i took this one off of my blue cobalt that had oil running out of it when it rolled. becouse i dident want to boor the original. just in case it dident work.
the smt-7 is removeable and can be taken off and put back on in minutes. i even took it back to stock "ecm" that is and still the same code. any input would be great.