2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

You guys are my last shot.

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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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Maupin SS/SC's Avatar
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You guys are my last shot.

Ok so my turbo 2.2 is going in the *******. i have had a slew of problems from loose maf which was making the car freak. To blown emissions fuse. to dead battery all the time. to no power.

I got the maf problem fixed and my oil leak awhile back. i now have very little power under partial throttle and its dead all the time. It says check charging system. The engine running isnt charging the battery near enough.I never figured what blew the fuse and i cant tell a difference with the system off or on.

I've got very little time to fix the car or its gonna have to be sold for almost nothing to somebody who wants to fix it themselves if anybody thinks they can pinpoint the problem and wants details pm me or call /txt 913-221-2913. Thanks guys

If i lose the cobalt im probably not gonna be able to do any mods or anythin for a few cars so your my last shot.

nobody? come on i need one person to save my ******* car or m gonna be in some ****

Last edited by Maupin SS/SC; Jan 8, 2010 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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slowswap's Avatar
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Check all electrical accessories you added. If easy to do, remove them. The battery may be beyond recharging also. What blew the fuse may also be a cause of some of your electrical nightmares.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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go to autozone have them hook it to a code reader. it's free and might give some more information. What year? Factory warranted? Have had the alternator checked? also free at autozone....
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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alternater probably took a crap. take it out and have it tested.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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check your alternator and battery first and foremost
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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alternator is fine batt tested good when it was in there last. i have taken subs off and stereo is hooked to fuse in the kickplate? along with the radar detector and gauge
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:01 PM
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alt is fine as in you took it off and had it tested? because if you didnt have it tested then dont say its fine because more than likely its not.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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they tested on vehicle for amps and output i have vinces tuner and im not getting any codes
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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sounds like you have a short somewhere or something you have hooked up is having an adverse effect on the elec system
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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There are so many things that could be causing your problems. You need to pick aparticular problem and diagnose that one problem, it will most likely lead to the rest of your problems.

I suspect a wiring problem of some sort, maybe a bad ground or something. Just take the car to a good shop, it would be alot cheaper in the long run. Not to mention you would get to keep the car. They have the correct diagnostic equiptment to make the proper diagnosis. Sorry i can't help more but to many thingws are going on to say what exactly the problem is....

P.S. if you do decide to get rid of it, pm me, i might know someone interested...
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:51 AM
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Selling it cheap? Im down. If you cant get it sorted out let me know.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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good luck wit fixin the issue but if you do sell the car, what manifold do you got? garrett or equal length? if so how much for it
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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when you replace the fuse does it blow again??





BATTERY ELECTRICAL DRAIN/PARASITIC LOAD TEST

TOOLS REQUIRED
J 38758 Parasitic Draw Test Switch

DIAGNOSTIC AIDS

* Rule out any possible obvious influences, such as customer error or aftermarket equipment.
* Check customer driving habits, such as regular short trips. This does not allow enough time to properly charge the battery. Refer to Battery Description and Operation.
* Verify that the battery and charging system are in proper working order. Refer to Battery Charging and Charging System Test. See: Battery Charging Procedure See: Charging System Test
* A battery discharging for no apparent reason while the vehicle is parked can be caused by an intermittent draw, such as a module waking up, or a continuous draw, such as a dome light or stuck relay.
* Some systems and modules such as OnStar(R), and regulated voltage control (RVC), if equipped, are designed to wake-up, perform a task, and go back asleep at regular intervals. Refer to Control Module References in Computer/Integrating Systems for the system or modules description and operation.
* Some systems and modules such as theft or remote keyless entry (RKE) will wake up due to an outside input. Refer to Control Module References in Computer/Integrating Systems for the system or modules description and operation.

* The battery run down time will vary depending on cold cranking amperage (CCA) and reserve capacity (RC). If the CCA and RC are higher, then the battery run down time would be longer. If the CCA and RC are lower, then the battery run down time would be shorter. The graph indicates roughly how many days a 690 CCA battery with at 110 minutes RC (60.5 AH) starting at 80 percent state of charge will last with a constant current draw until it reaches 50 percent state of charge. Differences in battery rating and temperature will affect the results.

IMPORTANT: The battery specification listed is a generic specification. Refer to Battery Usage chart when testing the battery.

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.

NOTE:

* Do not turn the parasitic draw test switch to the OFF position with the engine running. Damage will occur to the vehicle's electrical system.
* The test switch must be in the ON position when removing the fuses in order to maintain continuity in the electrical system. This avoids damaging the digital multimeter due to accidental overloading, such as a door being opened to change a fuse.

IMPORTANT: The switch knob on the J 38758 is marked ON and OFF. When the switch knob is in the ON position, the circuit is closed and electrical current will pass through the switch. When the switch knob is in the OFF position, the circuit is open and electrical current will not pass through the switch.

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal.
2. Install the male end of the J 38758 to the battery ground terminal.
3. Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position.
4. Install the battery negative cable to the female end of the J 38758.
5. Turn the J 38758 knob to the ON position.
6. Road test the vehicle and activate ALL of the accessories, including the radio and air conditioning. This may take up to 30 minutes .
7. Park the vehicle. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the ignition switch key. IMPORTANT: Leaving the key in the ignition on some vehicles may cause a parasitic drain that is above the recommended amount. Refer to Body Control System Description and Operation in Computer/Integrating Systems.
8. Connect a 10-amp fused jumper wire to the test switch tool terminals.
9. Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. The current now flows through the jumper wire.
10. Wait 1 minute . If the fuse blows, install an inductive ammeter and go to step 20.
11. Remove the fused jumper wire.
12. Set a DMM to the 10A scale.
13. Connect the DMM to the test switch tool terminals.
14. Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. The current flows now through the DMM.
15. Wait 1 minute . Inspect and record the current reading.

1. When there is a current reading on 2A or less, turn the J 38758 knob to the ON position. The electrical current will now pass through the switch.
2. Then switch the DMM down to the 2A scale for a more accurate reading when the J 38758 knob is turned OFF.

16. Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. Wait 15 minutes for most vehicles.
17. Inspect and record the current reading.
18. Note the battery reserve capacity amp hour rating). Refer to Battery Usage.

1. Divide the reserve capacity by 4 amp hour rating by 2.4).
2. Compare this to the multimeter milliamp reading taken in the previous step. The parasitic current drain should not exceed this number.Example: If a battery has a reserve capacity of 100 minutes , (60 A/H) the current drain should not exceed 25 mA .

19. If excessive current drain is not found at this time and there are no other apparent causes, complete the following:
20. Using the MIN/MAX function of the DMM, monitor the parasitic drain overnight or during the day. This will determine if something has been activated during that time frame.
21. When the vehicle has an unacceptable amount of parasitic current drain, remove each fuse one at a time until the current drain falls to an acceptable level. This will indicate which circuit is causing the drain. Refer to Power Distribution Schematics in Diagnostic Aids to diagnose exactly which part of the suspect circuit is causing the parasitic drain. In some cases a non-fused circuit or component, such as a relay, is the cause of excessive parasitic current drain. If it has been determined that the OnStar(R) system is the source of parasitic load. NOTE: The test switch must be in the ON position when removing the fuses in order to maintain continuity in the electrical system. This avoids damaging the digital multimeter due to accidental overloading, such as a door being opened to change a fuse. IMPORTANT: Removing fuses, relays, and connectors to determine the failure area may wake up modules. You must wait for these modules to go to sleep or use the sleep function on the scan tool.
22. Repeat the parasitic current drain test procedure after any repair has been completed to make sure that the parasitic current drain is at an acceptable level.
23. When the cause of the excessive current drain has been located and repaired, remove the J 38758.
24. Connect the battery negative cable to the battery negative terminal.

Last edited by copson20; Jan 9, 2010 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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your belt shiney? your tensioner could be bad and honestly driving under normal volts will kill your electrical system and make things wear out and overheat trying to draw more amps...
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:22 PM
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car was traded in guys got a new 06 ss/sc laser blue 35k miles.

just brought it home tonight
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by maupin2.2
car was traded in guys got a new 06 ss/sc laser blue 35k miles.

just brought it home tonight
congrats
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by maupin2.2
car was traded in guys got a new 06 ss/sc laser blue 35k miles.

just brought it home tonight
so let get this right..
you sold your broke ass 2.2 for a ss/sc

how the ****! lol
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:35 PM
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LOL! I was scared of a turbo build because if this, but if I could get a SS out of it I'm game!
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by shawn672
so let get this right..
you sold your broke ass 2.2 for a ss/sc

how the ****! lol
I agree... How? Did you go back to stock and drive up to a lot? ...lol.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 10:28 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by maupin2.2
car was traded in guys got a new 06 ss/sc laser blue 35k miles.

just brought it home tonight
Sounds like a good decision. Post up pics if you can!!
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.N00bLaR
I agree... How? Did you go back to stock and drive up to a lot? ...lol.
That dealer is fucked
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 09:18 AM
  #22  
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i have to pay a few though but idk the one i got is great i just cant get ahold of the previous owner i would like to know who did the custom tune
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 12:31 AM
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I can just see them negotiating with the sales rep at the dealer....

Rep: Any known issues or upgrades done to the car?
Maupin2.2: Nope, not at all. Just looking for more reliable power.
Rep: Perfect! Sign Here....

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 09:22 AM
  #24  
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ya i had to get the guys number and call the previous owner. i just said nothing to the dealer. soooo dumb over there.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by maupin2.2
ya i had to get the guys number and call the previous owner. i just said nothing to the dealer. soooo dumb over there.
lmao i almost feel bad for the next owner..
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