2.2 weakness's
The base cobalts were not intended to be bought for speed, they are an eco cars and affordable, there's nothing wrong with that at all. There are some quick 2.2's out there and props to them for doing a build, my comments have been taken the wrong way.
In my initial post I mentioned that doing N/A mods is purely a waste of money, if you buy an header, catback, intake, 2.4 manifold etc. You're still going to be slower than the Camry next you with 2 kids in the back seat.
I said that the only real way to make it worth while is going F/I, with that being said hopefully some of the 2.2 guys that have gone S/C or T/C can chime in with what worked for them.
In my initial post I mentioned that doing N/A mods is purely a waste of money, if you buy an header, catback, intake, 2.4 manifold etc. You're still going to be slower than the Camry next you with 2 kids in the back seat.
I said that the only real way to make it worth while is going F/I, with that being said hopefully some of the 2.2 guys that have gone S/C or T/C can chime in with what worked for them.
Take it for what it is. It's a fun drive with a 5-speed and bolt on and a tune. When your Honda fan-boy boss gets spanked you still feel full filled.
I still haven't decided what to do with the car. It has good power and I can pay it off this year. But it's only worth like 3 or 4 thousand so is it really worth it to get rid of it?
alright well then i apologize and i do agree but i will say if he is doing a slow build i would build up my engine, drivetrain, ect. before throwing boost at it because then your right he is going to have a broken car with no warranty. But i think i speak for most people out there if you are trying to build a fast N/A car you aren't going to build a 4 cylinder, just not enough CI there to work with, plus if you dont go boosted your just not going to have enough fun lol
alright well then i apologize and i do agree but i will say if he is doing a slow build i would build up my engine, drivetrain, ect. before throwing boost at it because then your right he is going to have a broken car with no warranty. But i think i speak for most people out there if you are trying to build a fast N/A car you aren't going to build a 4 cylinder, just not enough CI there to work with, plus if you dont go boosted your just not going to have enough fun lol
lol my bad, well im very interested in a supercharger just due to the price, what did your setup cost you? and 265hp thats not bad at all, like i said im not looking to build a race car just a well balanced ride
yea thats sounds better than the turbo kit from Hahn/Garret, Who did your tune?, im guessing Vince since he provide you wiring diagrams and was it a smooth install and about how long did this take?
Last edited by ZeeBee; Jan 9, 2009 at 06:28 PM.
umm..well it took me a couple weeks because i was figuring out parts and there werent any direrctions. interviewatruins did it in about 2-3 days using my how to and calling the others who have done this. it all depends
hey get your ass back to g5club.net!!!
haha jk
it wont work with 17's???

haha jk
it wont work with 17's???
Last edited by ZeeBee; Jan 10, 2009 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
how much do you want to spend? SSBC makes big brake conversion kits that will give you some massive calipers and massive rotors, and theyre sexy as hell, but they cost $1000 for fronts and another $1000 for rears. If thats too much, check out all the rotor and new pad combinations at TTR. they'll be stock size or very close, but better materials and come drilled and slotted. Te best thing you can do to reduce your braking distace is buy some stickier tires. BFG KDW II is a very popular choice.
Aftermarket lightweight rims that are wider than stock (stock are 7", look for some 8") will help as well.
Aftermarket lightweight rims that are wider than stock (stock are 7", look for some 8") will help as well.
how much do you want to spend? SSBC makes big brake conversion kits that will give you some massive calipers and massive rotors, and theyre sexy as hell, but they cost $1000 for fronts and another $1000 for rears. If thats too much, check out all the rotor and new pad combinations at TTR. they'll be stock size or very close, but better materials and come drilled and slotted. Te best thing you can do to reduce your braking distace is buy some stickier tires. BFG KDW II is a very popular choice.
Aftermarket lightweight rims that are wider than stock (stock are 7", look for some 8") will help as well.
Aftermarket lightweight rims that are wider than stock (stock are 7", look for some 8") will help as well.
btw whats option B?
Last edited by ZeeBee; Jan 12, 2009 at 03:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


