Throttle body info
#1
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Throttle body info
I have been looking on the forums here and other sites. But I can't figure out if the lsj or 2.4 throttle body is better to use. I have found out that the lap uses the 2.4 manifold. (I think) if I replace the TB would I need to replace the manifold as well?
I have a 2010 cobalt Lt w/2lt. K&n cai. That's it so far. I'm very new to this still.
I have a 2010 cobalt Lt w/2lt. K&n cai. That's it so far. I'm very new to this still.
#2
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Originally Posted by CobaltHunter
I have been looking on the forums here and other sites. But I can't figure out if the lsj or 2.4 throttle body is better to use. I have found out that the lap uses the 2.4 manifold. (I think) if I replace the TB would I need to replace the manifold as well?
I have a 2010 cobalt Lt w/2lt. K&n cai. That's it so far. I'm very new to this still.
I have a 2010 cobalt Lt w/2lt. K&n cai. That's it so far. I'm very new to this still.
#3
Slobodan Milošević
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2008 is still l61. 09+ is lap
and there are 6 pin and 8 pin 2.4 throttle bodies. All lsj are 8 pin, but a different wiring configuration than the 2.4 8 pin.
If you get a correct pin (6 or 8) for your wiring harness, the 2.4 tb plug will be direct fit. Lsj will require a conversion harness or re wiring. Both the lsj and le5 tb will require a tune to adjust for the new plate area.
Imo, it's not worth it unless you are already planning on tuning. there will be no noticeable gains swapping throttle bodies, so I personally wouldn't even bother.
and there are 6 pin and 8 pin 2.4 throttle bodies. All lsj are 8 pin, but a different wiring configuration than the 2.4 8 pin.
If you get a correct pin (6 or 8) for your wiring harness, the 2.4 tb plug will be direct fit. Lsj will require a conversion harness or re wiring. Both the lsj and le5 tb will require a tune to adjust for the new plate area.
Imo, it's not worth it unless you are already planning on tuning. there will be no noticeable gains swapping throttle bodies, so I personally wouldn't even bother.
#5
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For what it's worth I ran a 2.4 throttle body on my 2.2 untuned for months. It really depends on the car whether it will like it or not. But take it from someone who has all the bolt-ons, the 2.4 throttle body isn't worth it. You could do a full exhaust/header/dp with minimal gains, and to be honest the most bang-for-buck would be a tune.
Last edited by Jesse; 01-07-2016 at 04:46 PM.
#6
Slobodan Milošević
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For what it's worth I ran a 2.4 throttle body on my 2.2 untuned for months. It really depends on the car whether it will like it or not. But take it from someone who has all the bolt-ons, the 2.4 Manifold isn't worth it. You could do a full exhaust/header/dp with minimal gains, and to be honest the most bang-for-buck would be a tune.
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#11
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In 2008 the 2.4 intake manifold changed from a 1-piece manifold to a 2-piece sealed design, just like the 2.2 already had. For L61s, the 1-piece 2006-2007 2.4L manifold is an upgrade. You'll get clashing info but me and 07black will argue that the 1-piece manifold is still an upgrade. But an exhaust would help too, it's just a lot more expensive. But then it opens up your future to SC or turbo and not have to buy a whole new exhaust because you'll already have most/all of it done already.
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So from what I'm getting my 2010 cobalt Lt 2.2 any manifold or throttle body wouldn't give much for gains in power? Am I understanding that correctly?
Sorry for these questions. I just want to make sure that I have the information straight.
Sorry for these questions. I just want to make sure that I have the information straight.
#13
Slobodan Milošević
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the 06-07 2.4 manifold was dyno proven to add substantial power to the 2.2 l61.
The newer 2.2 and 2.4 engines share the same manifold, so people claim that "there will be no gain going to any 2.4 manifold because it already has one".
Until I see proof, I'm not buying it.
old vs new 2.4 manifold...
The newer 2.2 and 2.4 engines share the same manifold, so people claim that "there will be no gain going to any 2.4 manifold because it already has one".
Until I see proof, I'm not buying it.
old vs new 2.4 manifold...
#19
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HPTuners.com >> Performance At Your Fingertips
Buying the software to access the computer is the most expensive thing. $500 or you can get it used sometimes. If you decide to start self tuning I always offer advice and help for non-boosted, non nitrous setups so you don't have to pay for someone to help you or tune you. But most people get scared by the $500 and the uncertainty they feel.
Buying the software to access the computer is the most expensive thing. $500 or you can get it used sometimes. If you decide to start self tuning I always offer advice and help for non-boosted, non nitrous setups so you don't have to pay for someone to help you or tune you. But most people get scared by the $500 and the uncertainty they feel.
#21
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If you learn good enough, instant tire-shredding throttle response, maybe some better MPG depending on how hard you drive it. Plus the ability to disable all the annoying pointless trouble codes like the P0128 which disables your AC. Disable that code and your AC works all the time.
And don't forget, the feeling of knowing you're doing it yourself and learning a valuable new skill. You can look at tons of stock tunes for other cars in the repository and learn to tune them before you buy them.
And don't forget, the feeling of knowing you're doing it yourself and learning a valuable new skill. You can look at tons of stock tunes for other cars in the repository and learn to tune them before you buy them.
#23
Slobodan Milošević
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More rpm always equals more horsepower, assuming there is adequate airflow and fuel/cooling etc.
Every single engine has a choke point in terms of airflow. Either the head, cams, manifolds, turbo, whatever is choking airflow through the engine at "X" rpm. Once you surpass X rpm, the power will begin to fall off, since the airflow demands increase the higher the RPM. The higher you go above X, the less power you make because you are only able to supply a diminishing percent of required airflow.
Removing the restriction will allow for the engine to flow more air, until the next restricting factor comes into play. More airflow+more rpm=more power
The reason the powerband "shifts up" is because when you increase the airflow capabilities of an engine in order to make it more efficient at high rpm, the low end becomes less efficient.
In this case, the 2.2 manifold becomes a restriction at ~5500rpm. Adding the larger 2.4 manifold allows enough airflow to raise the peak power to ~6500rpm. The horsepower keeps the same curve as the 2.2 manifold, but power continues to climb to 6500 instead of 5500. You lose a bit of low end tq due to the large runners reducing efficiency at lower rpm (hence the shifted powerband). More rpm=more peak power, again assuming you are capable of flowing the required air. At 6500 the restriction becomes (most likely) the camshafts/head aspect of the equation.
The 2.2 with the stock manifold and full bolt ons peaks horsepower around the ~5500rpm. Adding the 2.4 manifold causes the engine to peak around ~6500rpm. Assuming manual trans, bolt on 2.2 makes about 150whp@5500, where bolt on+2.4 mani make about ~160 @6500
Every single engine has a choke point in terms of airflow. Either the head, cams, manifolds, turbo, whatever is choking airflow through the engine at "X" rpm. Once you surpass X rpm, the power will begin to fall off, since the airflow demands increase the higher the RPM. The higher you go above X, the less power you make because you are only able to supply a diminishing percent of required airflow.
Removing the restriction will allow for the engine to flow more air, until the next restricting factor comes into play. More airflow+more rpm=more power
The reason the powerband "shifts up" is because when you increase the airflow capabilities of an engine in order to make it more efficient at high rpm, the low end becomes less efficient.
In this case, the 2.2 manifold becomes a restriction at ~5500rpm. Adding the larger 2.4 manifold allows enough airflow to raise the peak power to ~6500rpm. The horsepower keeps the same curve as the 2.2 manifold, but power continues to climb to 6500 instead of 5500. You lose a bit of low end tq due to the large runners reducing efficiency at lower rpm (hence the shifted powerband). More rpm=more peak power, again assuming you are capable of flowing the required air. At 6500 the restriction becomes (most likely) the camshafts/head aspect of the equation.
The 2.2 with the stock manifold and full bolt ons peaks horsepower around the ~5500rpm. Adding the 2.4 manifold causes the engine to peak around ~6500rpm. Assuming manual trans, bolt on 2.2 makes about 150whp@5500, where bolt on+2.4 mani make about ~160 @6500
#24
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SMDH,
I took the dynos from when this thing first came out.
I applied basic calculus and found the power under the dyno curve. The total power is the same. Almost exactly the same.
You lose low and end horsepower in favor of higher RPM power.
The total power is the same though.
The only way this thing is useful is when maintaining high RPMs.
I took the dynos from when this thing first came out.
I applied basic calculus and found the power under the dyno curve. The total power is the same. Almost exactly the same.
You lose low and end horsepower in favor of higher RPM power.
The total power is the same though.
The only way this thing is useful is when maintaining high RPMs.