my zzp ajustable broke the TOB like nothing after a while, then after changing the tob the zzp master died lol
so im going all gm on the kys2
i need to find the pictures to show it. Where the fluid goes through, at the connection, it busted. I couldnt get into gear. We think that the zzp adjustable pushed too much fluid to break it clean.
This was with an exedy stage 2 clutch. oem flywheel.

 

I'm trying to find a turbo exhaust manifold for my 2007 LE5. Then I'll probably get a precision turbo... I have no idea how I am going to be able to do this build. If any suggestions let me know!

Hoping to put her on coils also want a little bit of wheel poke so some 50mm spacers as well.

Loving the build man!

 

Yeah, that's **** man.. I decided to stay away from the adjustable clutch rod.


Hope you get it all figured out. Mines being great with all the gm parts but just trying to figure out how to get my homemade clutch stop to work.


gmpartsdirect is a great website to get parts from. My new tob was 76 dollars if I remember right..


Just need to figure out how to remove the clutch safety where the car wont start till clutch is on floor.


Clutch feels starts at 70% up, engagement starts at 85ish. Could easily remove an inch or two of excessive travel of the tob..


Any tips on that would be great.


Asking a gm tech later this week, but im sure someone on here knows how to disable it.


I always keep my car in neutral anyway, and am in the habit of checking before letting off the clutch.

 

Thanks bud, its a work in progress.


I need more low and more poke lol


Theres a lot of great info on here, if you search around a little bit a day you will figure out pretty fast what you want to do and how to accomplish it. You could always start a build thread.


These wheels I have where 100 dollars a piece. They will soon be retired to winter wheels with winter tires when I can get the wheels I want.

 

Made an adjustable clutch stop so my tob isn't over extending.


Clutch begins engaging about 70% up or higher.


Need to get this installed to lessen the chances of future issues.


I really need some help on this one and it would be greatly appreciated.


The car will obviously not start until the clutch is on the floor.


I have owned the car three years and always leave it in neutral but still check anyway.


I need to remove my clutch safety, does anyone know how to do this?


Thanks


Heres the stop I made for $2

(edit)I will trim away some jb weld so it can be tightened down.




Thanks again

 

Dont get rid of the clutch safety if you dont have to. Make an arm the push the button down.

 

What do you mean by button?


I thought it was based on a position sensor? similar to the throttle?


I could make a pivot so the stop is out of the way and then move the pivot every time I use my car. But that would be a pain in the ass.


If you have a better solution I would like to hear it.


Thanks

 

he means the switch at the bottom of the throw. The one that needs to be pressed to start the car

 

Alright, that makes sense.


Ill be working on it here in a little bit


Thanks guys

 

**** youre right. I forgot that 08+ use an actual position sensor not a switch. I wouldnt delete that either though. There are clutch fuel cut off tables and what not in the ecu that like having that sensor. Try driving with it unplugged and see if anything weird happens. If you do decide to delete it, send it to me

 

I don't have the slightest idea how to properly delete this sensor..


Im just going to go with it and hope the tob is ok with the abuse.


What else can I do..


BC coils soon! Wish they would have got here before the weekend. ah well


Do you know how I would raise the engine a bit (like mount spacers?) so I wont get axle seal issues?


I want to slam it but I don't want the axle seal issues.


Im sure you figured it out since yours is slammed.


I already have the steering rack spacers ready to go in from ottp.


Is that what the rotated mounts for 2.4 do from powell? New to all the suspension mods

 

Solid front and side mount is all that's needed.

 

Don't know if I need rotated or not.


Don't even know what way rotated they are (lower or higher)


Higher would make sense for lowered cars..


Not too sure about solid mounts with the no balance shafts I might run in the future.

 

A deer hit me today.


There were people on the right side of the road.


I was going 40 mph I moved to the left side of the road to be courteous.


I glanced over to them.


When I looked back up seven deer ran across the street.


on the brakes, deer 1,2,3,4, the 5th one seems its going to take out my fender or front bumper.


The deer jumps grazes my left fender, kicks my hood leaves a scratch.


Then grazes my right fender with its hoof.


The body of the deer was literally at windshield height, and the deer was qualified in the art's of the matrix.


The deer jumped and did a crazy roll, barley touched my car and landed on the other side on its feet. Then just looked back like not **** happened.


Im incredibly lucky, it could have being much worse.


Lucky the deer was a black belt martial artist of some sorts


Really need to get a dash cam. Last couple days have seen some crazy ****..


Heres some damage pictures.


Double dent, scratched clear coat.



Scratched hood kick



Deer hoof mark right side








Overall very lucky

 

Installed BC coilovers Tuesday night when they got here.


Took Just over 5 hours taking my time. Then an hour of height adjustment


Since then have being tweaking them a lot, and would recommend them to anyone. Unless they want a super smooth ride.


Overall for coilovers, very comfortable ride.


Pretty surprised, the adjustable rebound is great. When I first got them they almost "pogo sticked" when hitting bumps.


A few turn of the knobs and they glide down the road beautifully.


Have since lowered it quite a bit more than the current photos.


Gap between tire and fender is about the thickness of my fingers.


What a great system.

















FE3 struts, 80k miles



Both springs were cracked and had broken into two pieces



Do not buy zzp REAR drilled and slotted rotors unless you want horrible vibrating brakes in the rear. Especially with the rear caliper issue I have seen around here.


Only use solid rotors in the rear. $24 a piece at auto zone, used old pads, stops great.


zzp FRONT drilled and slotted rotors are smooth and work great for the price.








The same night, first picture.



A few days ago





Very happy with the performance and quality of this product

 

Yeah i have the powell rotated mounts. They move the motor up. I ended up making my own mounts though that raise it much higher.

 

Why would raising the motor help?


Doesn't that just make the axles more straight?


I don't really understand the reasoning behind the different mounts


With my car at this height the axles almost mirror the geometry of when the car was high just opposite. Not too sure

 

it just helps deter axle bind