2.4L LE5 Performance Tech 16 valve 171 hp EcoTec with 163 lb-ft of torque

Full 2.4L Cylinder head/Valvetrain upgrade

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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #1  
mike25's Avatar
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From: west virginia
Full 2.4L Cylinder head/Valvetrain upgrade

well im lookin at work to be done for later down the road after i install a turbo on my car...i want to upgrade the cylinder head/valvetrain to withstand 400-450 hp....so this is what i got so far...

1.JBP TriFlow® ECOTEC 2.4L VVT Camshafts [LE5] ....says something about core regrindings...what is this and does it really make a diference for $200?

2. Ferrea Titanium Retainers [ALL ECOTEC]...im guessing this will fit the LE5
3. Ferrea Dual Coil Valve Springs [ALL ECOTEC]
4. Ferrea Special Alloy [Stock Exhaust Size] Valves
5. Ferrea Special Alloy [Stock Intake Size] Valves
6. Possible Port and Polish




now im aware this isnt everything ill need but it is a start....NJHK i know you know alot about this stuff so help me out hear....like i mentioned above i have some large future power levels for this car and i stil want to maintain everyday driveability so lemme kno what i need..

Last edited by mike25; Nov 9, 2006 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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sushidog's Avatar
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From: Abita Springs, Louisiana
Originally Posted by mike25
well im lookin at work to be done for later down the road after i install a turbo on my car...i want to upgrade the cylinder head/valvetrain to withstand 400-450 hp....so this is what i got so far...

1.JBP TriFlow® ECOTEC 2.4L VVT Camshafts [LE5] ....says something about core regrindings...what is this and does it really make a diference for $200?

2. Ferrea Titanium Retainers [ALL ECOTEC]...im guessing this will fit the LE5
3. JBP Bronze Valve Guides [All ECOTEC]

4. Ferrea Dual Coil Valve Springs [ALL ECOTEC]
5. Ferrea Special Alloy [Stock Exhaust Size] Valves
6. Ferrea Special Alloy [Stock Intake Size] Valves

now im aware this isnt everything ill need but it is a start....NJHK i know you know alot about this stuff so help me out hear....like i mentioned above i have some large future power levels for this car and i stil want to maintain everyday driveability so lemme kno what i need..
You don't want the standard triflow cam. You need an F/I cam. This is a cam with less overlap and usually greater exhaust duration. So far, no one makes one yet, so you will have to have a custom grind. Here's the kicker; it needs to works with vvt and not throw codes. The rest of the goodies look cool, just be sure not to use too much valve seat pressure on a street engine. Get a good 3-5 angle valve job, but remember, don't go too narrow on the seats.

What about a port and polish?
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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rally's Avatar
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From: Peoria, Illinois
If it says ALL ECOTEC then it will fit your engine because, in fact, you have an ECOTEC
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:36 PM
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From: East Brunswick, NJ
LOL I find it funny that you've been addressing me in the past 2 threads but it's kind of flattering at the same time.

Right now, my weak point is the 2.4 VVT motors.

I'll get back to you. Just a bit busy at work right now.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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From: Moncton Newbrunswick Can.
As you guys who are folowing the JBP cam thread my buddy I found out today did bend my valves,so I also am going with better valves while Im at it,even though I have no intention of putting in a turbo or SC, might spray(maybe in the summer) and thats a big maybe
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:47 PM
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From: Nashville
A core regrind is where they take your original part, called a "core", and change it. I don't like the sound of that at all. If means they are taking more metal off of the cam (they can't add any) and would have to re-heat treat them. Don't do that. And like it was posted earlier, wait for a forced induction grind to become available. Cams can easily be done at any time on these engines with little work.

Ferrea valve train parts are awesome. No problems there. You don't need the valve guides. That's a rebuild part only if you somehow damaged your original guides. You also won't need the Ferrea valve seats. Without them, the dual coils make 80 lbs of seat pressure. With them, you are at 120, which is too much for a street car.

Do the Port and Polish. You'll have the head out anyway, so might as well.

With this work, your head should be safe to over 500 HP and 8000 RPM.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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From: west virginia
Originally Posted by NJHK
LOL I find it funny that you've been addressing me in the past 2 threads but it's kind of flattering at the same time.

Right now, my weak point is the 2.4 VVT motors.

I'll get back to you. Just a bit busy at work right now.
Lmao i just know youve done work concerning this stuff so i figured you might be able to offer some insight on it
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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From: Moncton Newbrunswick Can.
Originally Posted by mike25
Lmao i just know youve done work concerning this stuff so i figured you might be able to offer some insight on it
Hey Mike I say you should do it,mine is being done over the next few days, Ill let you know how it goes
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 09:33 PM
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From: west virginia
Originally Posted by g5mike
Hey Mike I say you should do it,mine is being done over the next few days, Ill let you know how it goes
ok cool lemme know how it turns out....ive been following your thread...looks like your having a bitch of a time getting it straightened out...good luck with it
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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From: Moncton Newbrunswick Can.
Originally Posted by mike25
ok cool lemme know how it turns out....ive been following your thread...looks like your having a bitch of a time getting it straightened out...good luck with it
Yah Ill know all tomorro,if the seatings are shot then i might as well go for it all, port polish the works,if not im just getting the valves and being done with it,the shop just wanted to be thorough and make sure I did not **** more than the valves,damn cant wait to start driving again,Ill pay JBP tomorro to overnight eveything Ill need
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