2.4L LE5 Performance Tech 16 valve 171 hp EcoTec with 163 lb-ft of torque

Most HP Na?

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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 03:38 PM
  #51  
redssna's Avatar
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From: Buffalo
Originally Posted by slowswap
It would cost no more then a built motor for a turbo, without the price of a turbo. Instead of lower compression pistons, you get higher ones. You could probably get 250-275 whp N/A. Now lighten the car and you have a sick track or autocross car.
He really does have a point. As long as you do it right and really think about how the different components can work together it probably wouldn't be that hard to get at least 250whp. I think next summer I'm really going to have to look into making the car lighter.
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 03:40 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by slowswap
It would cost no more then a built motor for a turbo, without the price of a turbo. Instead of lower compression pistons, you get higher ones. You could probably get 250-275 whp N/A. Now lighten the car and you have a sick track or autocross car.
You can buy a turbo kit for $2500 last I knew, or piece one up yourself. I don't see 275 whp N/A coming out of my car for that price. I want an N/A car though. I'm undecided on what I'm gonna do though, since the cobalt is nearing its end already. As long as aftermarket support sticks around i'll keep the idea of a build.
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 04:19 PM
  #53  
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From: Depew, NY
Originally Posted by nutsandboldts05
You can buy a turbo kit for $2500 last I knew, or piece one up yourself. I don't see 275 whp N/A coming out of my car for that price. I want an N/A car though. I'm undecided on what I'm gonna do though, since the cobalt is nearing its end already. As long as aftermarket support sticks around i'll keep the idea of a build.
I said built motor for built motor. Not turbo kit on stock motor vs built motor.
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 04:27 PM
  #54  
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
Originally Posted by redssna
I'd like to see a 2.4 on spray take the top of the 2.4 list. It's totally possible. Pending of course someone doesn't pop up with like 400 hp.
I really think its possible. given slicks or near slick tires, I feel a mid 13 for on spray 2.4 isn't out of the question. not some weight reduction will be needed but it is all apart of the game. Now the question is would the RKsport hood hurt a 2.4 on spray or help it?
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 06:07 PM
  #55  
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From: Irwin, Pa (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by kush
So to recap a bit, ~$2000 for bolt ons, cams, and tune = ~200whp. Then to get rest rest of the hp i'd:
-p n p header/intake, valves, springs $1800?? gain 25?? whp
-LWP, alt pulley $500 +4 whp
total ~230whp
would changing throttle body or p n p it too? and lightweight flywheel help much? injectors?
Let me know if anything is off
injectors dont do anything. 12.0:1 c/r may not be possible, thats high as hell. full bolt ons and cams with a tune may get you close to 200whp. a lightweight flywheel will definately help out a bit. like 20whp or so. valve springs will allow you to rev to 7500 n gm neutral balance shafts will enable you to rev to 8K. and for the lightweight pully on crank (it is like a counter weight so lightweight may be bad?) but every pound off rotation assembly is like a .1 in a 1/4 mile
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 06:13 PM
  #56  
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From: Depew, NY
Originally Posted by o3nisoaso3
injectors dont do anything. 12.0:1 c/r may not be possible, thats high as hell. full bolt ons and cams with a tune may get you close to 200whp. a lightweight flywheel will definately help out a bit. like 20whp or so. valve springs will allow you to rev to 7500 n gm neutral balance shafts will enable you to rev to 8K. and for the lightweight pully on crank (it is like a counter weight so lightweight may be bad?) but every pound off rotation assembly is like a .1 in a 1/4 mile
Why wouldn't 12:1 be possible? I know a guy with a SHO running 16:1 compression. 12:1 is the highest you'd want to go and still be able to run 93.

Cams and full bolt ons will put you over 200 whp. It's been proven.

I highly doubt a lightweight flywheel is going to free up 20 hp on these cars. I'd never put a lightweight pulley on a crank. It's almost always bad news. Revving to 8k is good only if the cams make power there. I doubt any aftermarket cam right now has the ability to make power into the 8k range well still keeping driveability.

Every 10 lbs off the rotational assembly is good for .1 in the 1/4.
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 06:37 PM
  #57  
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From: Irwin, Pa (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by slowswap
Why wouldn't 12:1 be possible? I know a guy with a SHO running 16:1 compression. 12:1 is the highest you'd want to go and still be able to run 93.

Cams and full bolt ons will put you over 200 whp. It's been proven.

I highly doubt a lightweight flywheel is going to free up 20 hp on these cars. I'd never put a lightweight pulley on a crank. It's almost always bad news. Revving to 8k is good only if the cams make power there. I doubt any aftermarket cam right now has the ability to make power into the 8k range well still keeping driveability.

Every 10 lbs off the rotational assembly is good for .1 in the 1/4.
well yea thats what i meant. if he cant get unleaded race fuel n can only run leaded then he will need a fuel cell so add to cost again. i wasnt looking at c/r as in above 93. my fault
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 07:06 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by slowswap
Why wouldn't 12:1 be possible? I know a guy with a SHO running 16:1 compression. 12:1 is the highest you'd want to go and still be able to run 93.

Cams and full bolt ons will put you over 200 whp. It's been proven.

I highly doubt a lightweight flywheel is going to free up 20 hp on these cars. I'd never put a lightweight pulley on a crank. It's almost always bad news. Revving to 8k is good only if the cams make power there. I doubt any aftermarket cam right now has the ability to make power into the 8k range well still keeping driveability.

Every 10 lbs off the rotational assembly is good for .1 in the 1/4.
okay, you're mostly right. although, 12:1 is very very doable on pump gas, and above. the thing that people don't get is 12.5:1 is a LOT more than 12:1 and so on.

it wasn't uncommon in the muscle car era to be 13:1, but that was on leaded gas. you could do that on pump fuel now, you'd just be burning a **** ton of it.

as far as the flywheel... 20 hp, i dunno about, but it does make the car quite a bit stronger.
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #59  
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From: Irwin, Pa (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by joeworkstoohard
okay, you're mostly right. although, 12:1 is very very doable on pump gas, and above. the thing that people don't get is 12.5:1 is a LOT more than 12:1 and so on.

it wasn't uncommon in the muscle car era to be 13:1, but that was on leaded gas. you could do that on pump fuel now, you'd just be burning a **** ton of it.

as far as the flywheel... 20 hp, i dunno about, but it does make the car quite a bit stronger.
well mike ulrey (mkulrey13 black turbo 2.2 sedan) gained like 30whp n 26wtq when he put his in and he started with like 210/220 hp/tq n now got 241/254 hp/tq altho i base it on a % number not a set figure. only reason i claim that. plus my car pulled ***** hard when i did it plus i dynoed 167/178 with that n full bolt ons, no tune
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 03:11 AM
  #60  
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If i'm auto does that change the flywheel benefit at all?

so is it worth to p/p the throttle body along with the header/intake? or just the one?

Also, at what point does the set up become unreliable. Are there any specific mods that are kinda trouble in this way, or pushing engine too much. I don't really want to have to tinker after it's done.

Last edited by kush; Dec 12, 2008 at 03:33 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 07:06 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by kush
If i'm auto does that change the flywheel benefit at all?

so is it worth to p/p the throttle body along with the header/intake? or just the one?

Also, at what point does the set up become unreliable. Are there any specific mods that are kinda trouble in this way, or pushing engine too much. I don't really want to have to tinker after it's done.
If you're an auto, you don't have a clutch, you have a torque converter which means no flywheel.
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 07:10 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Blue_Balt
If you're an auto, you don't have a clutch, you have a torque converter which means no flywheel.
true, but a better torque converter can make a huge difference.

Originally Posted by o3nisoaso3
well mike ulrey (mkulrey13 black turbo 2.2 sedan) gained like 30whp n 26wtq when he put his in and he started with like 210/220 hp/tq n now got 241/254 hp/tq altho i base it on a % number not a set figure. only reason i claim that. plus my car pulled ***** hard when i did it plus i dynoed 167/178 with that n full bolt ons, no tune
well, mine made a noticeable difference, but i don't know about a 15% gain over stock, that seems like a lot to me.

Last edited by joeworkstoohard; Dec 12, 2008 at 07:10 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 06:31 PM
  #63  
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From: Irwin, Pa (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by joeworkstoohard
true, but a better torque converter can make a huge difference.



well, mine made a noticeable difference, but i don't know about a 15% gain over stock, that seems like a lot to me.
very true with a better torque converter and idk exactly for flywheel but saving 20 damn pounds on the rotational assembly is a big help! best mod i ever did for 300
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 06:35 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by o3nisoaso3
very true with a better torque converter and idk exactly for flywheel but saving 20 damn pounds on the rotational assembly is a big help! best mod i ever did for 300
yeah, it's a good bang for the buck job. a HELL of a lot better than an intake or catback
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 01:09 AM
  #65  
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From: BC
how much is a better torque converter, and are there brands recommended? Similar gains expected?
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 10:29 AM
  #66  
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From: Depew, NY
Originally Posted by kush
how much is a better torque converter, and are there brands recommended? Similar gains expected?
If you get a different torque converter, you'd want to get one with a higher stall so you can launch at higher RPM's at the track. Also a lightweight flexplate is always a good idea.
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 11:26 PM
  #67  
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From: BC
know where I can find the flex plates that work for our ecotechs? Can't seem to find it. And how much lighter are they from stock?
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 03:07 AM
  #68  
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From: The 405
360whp in a NA cobalt is the record right now and it went 9.97@129
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 06:34 AM
  #69  
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From: Buffalo
Originally Posted by EXsoccer1921
360whp in a NA cobalt is the record right now and it went 9.97@129
Is there a video of this? I'm not doubting, just wanna see the car.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 12:39 PM
  #70  
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that na cobalt doesn't happen to be a na v8 in it as well?
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 12:59 PM
  #71  
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one would assume its BUILT and sprayed to the max
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #72  
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No spray involved in an all motor build...
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 02:34 PM
  #73  
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From: The 405
Originally Posted by Jplaya023
one would assume its BUILT and sprayed to the max
total facepalm.

and no its not a v8, its grace howell's destroked 2.2 (the 2.16 race ecotec block)
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 06:22 PM
  #74  
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From: Tall Timbers, MD




/


Integrated steel uni-body and tube-frame chassis
Carbon-fiber doors and one-piece nose
Front-wheel-drive

Naturally-aspirated ECOtec race engine
o 2.4L Inline 4 cylinder
o 360hp
o Custom race-ported head
o High-lift race cams from Comp Cams
o Modified Kinsler intake
o 2 injectors per cylinder with FAST XFI Engine Management
o Methanol fuel
o Lucas Oil
o K&N Filters
o Xtrac 6-speed manual transmission
o Enginuity shift controller
http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Drag-.../grace-howell/
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 08:35 PM
  #75  
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holy hell
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