Most HP Na?
He really does have a point. As long as you do it right and really think about how the different components can work together it probably wouldn't be that hard to get at least 250whp. I think next summer I'm really going to have to look into making the car lighter.
You can buy a turbo kit for $2500 last I knew, or piece one up yourself. I don't see 275 whp N/A coming out of my car for that price. I want an N/A car though. I'm undecided on what I'm gonna do though, since the cobalt is nearing its end already. As long as aftermarket support sticks around i'll keep the idea of a build.
You can buy a turbo kit for $2500 last I knew, or piece one up yourself. I don't see 275 whp N/A coming out of my car for that price. I want an N/A car though. I'm undecided on what I'm gonna do though, since the cobalt is nearing its end already. As long as aftermarket support sticks around i'll keep the idea of a build.
I really think its possible. given slicks or near slick tires, I feel a mid 13 for on spray 2.4 isn't out of the question. not some weight reduction will be needed but it is all apart of the game. Now the question is would the RKsport hood hurt a 2.4 on spray or help it?
So to recap a bit, ~$2000 for bolt ons, cams, and tune = ~200whp. Then to get rest rest of the hp i'd:
-p n p header/intake, valves, springs $1800?? gain 25?? whp
-LWP, alt pulley $500 +4 whp
total ~230whp
would changing throttle body or p n p it too? and lightweight flywheel help much? injectors?
Let me know if anything is off
-p n p header/intake, valves, springs $1800?? gain 25?? whp
-LWP, alt pulley $500 +4 whp
total ~230whp
would changing throttle body or p n p it too? and lightweight flywheel help much? injectors?
Let me know if anything is off
injectors dont do anything. 12.0:1 c/r may not be possible, thats high as hell. full bolt ons and cams with a tune may get you close to 200whp. a lightweight flywheel will definately help out a bit. like 20whp or so. valve springs will allow you to rev to 7500 n gm neutral balance shafts will enable you to rev to 8K. and for the lightweight pully on crank (it is like a counter weight so lightweight may be bad?) but every pound off rotation assembly is like a .1 in a 1/4 mile
Cams and full bolt ons will put you over 200 whp. It's been proven.
I highly doubt a lightweight flywheel is going to free up 20 hp on these cars. I'd never put a lightweight pulley on a crank. It's almost always bad news. Revving to 8k is good only if the cams make power there. I doubt any aftermarket cam right now has the ability to make power into the 8k range well still keeping driveability.
Every 10 lbs off the rotational assembly is good for .1 in the 1/4.
Why wouldn't 12:1 be possible? I know a guy with a SHO running 16:1 compression. 12:1 is the highest you'd want to go and still be able to run 93.
Cams and full bolt ons will put you over 200 whp. It's been proven.
I highly doubt a lightweight flywheel is going to free up 20 hp on these cars. I'd never put a lightweight pulley on a crank. It's almost always bad news. Revving to 8k is good only if the cams make power there. I doubt any aftermarket cam right now has the ability to make power into the 8k range well still keeping driveability.
Every 10 lbs off the rotational assembly is good for .1 in the 1/4.
Cams and full bolt ons will put you over 200 whp. It's been proven.
I highly doubt a lightweight flywheel is going to free up 20 hp on these cars. I'd never put a lightweight pulley on a crank. It's almost always bad news. Revving to 8k is good only if the cams make power there. I doubt any aftermarket cam right now has the ability to make power into the 8k range well still keeping driveability.
Every 10 lbs off the rotational assembly is good for .1 in the 1/4.
Why wouldn't 12:1 be possible? I know a guy with a SHO running 16:1 compression. 12:1 is the highest you'd want to go and still be able to run 93.
Cams and full bolt ons will put you over 200 whp. It's been proven.
I highly doubt a lightweight flywheel is going to free up 20 hp on these cars. I'd never put a lightweight pulley on a crank. It's almost always bad news. Revving to 8k is good only if the cams make power there. I doubt any aftermarket cam right now has the ability to make power into the 8k range well still keeping driveability.
Every 10 lbs off the rotational assembly is good for .1 in the 1/4.
Cams and full bolt ons will put you over 200 whp. It's been proven.
I highly doubt a lightweight flywheel is going to free up 20 hp on these cars. I'd never put a lightweight pulley on a crank. It's almost always bad news. Revving to 8k is good only if the cams make power there. I doubt any aftermarket cam right now has the ability to make power into the 8k range well still keeping driveability.
Every 10 lbs off the rotational assembly is good for .1 in the 1/4.
it wasn't uncommon in the muscle car era to be 13:1, but that was on leaded gas. you could do that on pump fuel now, you'd just be burning a **** ton of it.
as far as the flywheel... 20 hp, i dunno about, but it does make the car quite a bit stronger.
okay, you're mostly right. although, 12:1 is very very doable on pump gas, and above. the thing that people don't get is 12.5:1 is a LOT more than 12:1 and so on.
it wasn't uncommon in the muscle car era to be 13:1, but that was on leaded gas. you could do that on pump fuel now, you'd just be burning a **** ton of it.
as far as the flywheel... 20 hp, i dunno about, but it does make the car quite a bit stronger.
it wasn't uncommon in the muscle car era to be 13:1, but that was on leaded gas. you could do that on pump fuel now, you'd just be burning a **** ton of it.
as far as the flywheel... 20 hp, i dunno about, but it does make the car quite a bit stronger.
If i'm auto does that change the flywheel benefit at all?
so is it worth to p/p the throttle body along with the header/intake? or just the one?
Also, at what point does the set up become unreliable. Are there any specific mods that are kinda trouble in this way, or pushing engine too much. I don't really want to have to tinker after it's done.
so is it worth to p/p the throttle body along with the header/intake? or just the one?
Also, at what point does the set up become unreliable. Are there any specific mods that are kinda trouble in this way, or pushing engine too much. I don't really want to have to tinker after it's done.
Last edited by kush; Dec 12, 2008 at 03:33 AM.
If i'm auto does that change the flywheel benefit at all?
so is it worth to p/p the throttle body along with the header/intake? or just the one?
Also, at what point does the set up become unreliable. Are there any specific mods that are kinda trouble in this way, or pushing engine too much. I don't really want to have to tinker after it's done.
so is it worth to p/p the throttle body along with the header/intake? or just the one?
Also, at what point does the set up become unreliable. Are there any specific mods that are kinda trouble in this way, or pushing engine too much. I don't really want to have to tinker after it's done.
well mike ulrey (mkulrey13 black turbo 2.2 sedan) gained like 30whp n 26wtq when he put his in and he started with like 210/220 hp/tq n now got 241/254 hp/tq altho i base it on a % number not a set figure. only reason i claim that. plus my car pulled ***** hard when i did it plus i dynoed 167/178 with that n full bolt ons, no tune
Last edited by joeworkstoohard; Dec 12, 2008 at 07:10 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
very true with a better torque converter and idk exactly for flywheel but saving 20 damn pounds on the rotational assembly is a big help! best mod i ever did for 300
If you get a different torque converter, you'd want to get one with a higher stall so you can launch at higher RPM's at the track. Also a lightweight flexplate is always a good idea.


Integrated steel uni-body and tube-frame chassis
Carbon-fiber doors and one-piece nose
Front-wheel-drive
Naturally-aspirated ECOtec race engine
o 2.4L Inline 4 cylinder
o 360hp
o Custom race-ported head
o High-lift race cams from Comp Cams
o Modified Kinsler intake
o 2 injectors per cylinder with FAST XFI Engine Management
o Methanol fuel
o Lucas Oil
o K&N Filters
o Xtrac 6-speed manual transmission
o Enginuity shift controller
Carbon-fiber doors and one-piece nose
Front-wheel-drive
Naturally-aspirated ECOtec race engine
o 2.4L Inline 4 cylinder
o 360hp
o Custom race-ported head
o High-lift race cams from Comp Cams
o Modified Kinsler intake
o 2 injectors per cylinder with FAST XFI Engine Management
o Methanol fuel
o Lucas Oil
o K&N Filters
o Xtrac 6-speed manual transmission
o Enginuity shift controller



