I had my car dynoed. The best it did was 160whp 162tq. Temp was 97F. I am fully bolted. And from what I have read on the forums on other dyno results, from 2.4s with similar mods, I should be at least 170whp minimum for fully bolted and non tuned. Dunkinuts got 171whp with just a K&N intake for christ sake! So why am I getting 160whp? Here is a list of my mods. Maybe someone can figure out why I'm not in the 170 range untuned. Also is it possible that if the temp was a lot cooler like lets say 70F do you think I might be in the 170 range then?

Results: http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7656/90861442.jpg

Anyone know why it's so squiggly?


2008 2.4L

Intake:

I had a GMPP intake but I custom modded it because I once read a post here where it's really made for the 2.2, and that the plastic tube is too small and restrictive. So I went to pep boys and I replaced what would be the plastic section with intake piping, but leaving the GMPP MAF tube, and the GMPP filter. I can make it SRI or CAI. I had it CAI when I dynoed. Will getting an aftermarket intake like injen instead make any difference at all? Or should I just get a better filter instead? Also for 2.4 should the intake piping be 2.5 or 3"?

Header:

I have a CA v2 header used from a friend of mine off his LSJ. It's a 3" outlet at the flange. Not sure of the primaries. I'm not sure if a shorty header is the best on N/A. Is N/A better off with a mid length or long tube? Or is shorty fine for N/A?

Downpipe:

ZZP 2.5 high flow catted downpipe

Exhaust:

Magnaflow muffler and resonator on stock piping. I didn't change the piping since I really didn't see the need to being that stock is already 2.5, so why pay more money for the same pipe? But I do understand the whole mandrel bent thing. And the fact the over axle pipe goes to 2.25. Basically the over axle pipe would be the only section worth of mandrel bent. After the resonator, I don't think that one bend in the stock pipe will really make a HUGE difference compared to mandrel bent. And the over axle pipe I can always change later on with OTTP's over axle pipe. So it's really just the over axle pipe. And when I had my muffler put on, the shop guy said even if I did change that over axle pipe it really wouldn't make much of a significant difference anyway. I know you guys are going to say I should of just went with the catback anyway. Maybe, but I didn't have $600 at the time. But doing it the way I did it, I only paid $367 total with install, instead of $600 and not including install which would probably be $800. And if I do add the OTTP pipe, I still end up saving about $300 compared to just getting the whole catback in the first place.

Other:

I doubt these will make any differences, but these are other mods I have. Ingalls torque damper, JET chip stage 2 (I run better afrs at wot with this on. Without it I run extremely rich in the 10's. With it on I'm in 11-12 range) ss/tc struts, shocks, springs, end links, progress rear sway bar, mrz performance front strut bar, short shifter, and an oil catch can. I didn't have the catch can the time of the dyno though.

I run Mobile one synthetic oil, and I have stock spark plugs. I run 91 octane from Sunoco. I have 15k on the car. Stock Pirelli P6 tires and stock 17" rims. And I'm not sure what else I can say about it that might help or give an idea. But to be honest, I'm not looking to be a race car. Just a decently powered daily driver for N/A with the best whp I can crank out of it without tuning, engine work, or F/I. I would tune but I'm not looking to void my warranty. Maybe after the warranty is up. I'd just like to see numbers other people are getting. And maybe the possibility to be able to beat a Civic SI Damn those import drivers....

 

honestly, go to the track and run times. Ive never been a guy for dyno numbers. many racers arent either. the dyno is just a tuning tool and nothing more.

good luck beating the si's

 

Ehhh I don't really want to break anything though like my tranny or axles lol. I did go once, but the only mods I had was the intake and an LSJ downpipe. I got 16.063 @ 88mph with a 2.483 60ft lol

 

if you have good suspension mods, which it loos like you do from what you had listed your fine.

a 2.483 60ft is what killed you. lol.

 

Yea I forgot to deflate my tires for better traction. Plus it was only my second time at a track and first time with a manual. If I had more experience I'm sure I could get better times. But with my suspension mods I still wheel hop like a **** at least on the street. I'm due for tires soon that might help. And I plan on getting OTTP's F23 stage 2 rotated trans mounts. Those should deff help with wheel hop. The F23 tranny scares me though. It bangs really hard in the mounts when I shift to second at wot. And with it's weak reputation... lol I hope the stage 2 mounts will eliminate this.

 

thats rough, My 2.2L is running 16.136 @ 3500ft above sea level. I also only have the intake/ header/ downpipe/ exhaust, and ingals torque dampener.

Once I get the throttlebody and intake mani and a tune, I should be running in the middle 15s

 

get a tune..... and ur numbers arent that bad.... i have an intake and catback..... 167whp and like 154trq

 

Alright I just did a bunch of researching on this site, going by the official dyno results thread with 2.4l N/A, and analyzing their dyno sheets. I can only compare 2 sheets cause I can't find the 3rd persons. But I did find out some interesting stuff. Now I can't really prove anything due to lack of 3rd dyno sheet, but this is what I've figured out. Starting with the guy with the highest dyno results 186/177 he has an injen, shorty header, and a 2.5 exhaust and dp. The guy with the lowest numbers 170/174 has an injen, mid length header, and a 3" dp with a 2.5 cut out. His top end fell flat on it's face after 4500. But he has high torque perhaps due to the cut out. And I have a feeling the 3" dp didn't help the hp either. The last guy with no sheet was in between. He got 171/168 He has one hp more than the last guy, but 6% less torque. He has K&N intake, mid length headers, and 2.5 dp and exhaust. From what I gather, it seems as if the mid length headers reak havoc on our powerband making it fall flat on its face at top end, but providing decent torque. Since the guy with the top numbers has a shorty header, perhaps it provides the best power/torque for us? Now your going to say but my hp peaks at 4500 and I have a shorty header too. BUT it does not majorly SKEW off like the guy who makes 170/174. And it's possible it's due to my intake. And probably the tune. But why intake? Because both guys have injen intakes. The in between guy has K&N and its SRI. The highest hp guy has practically the same mods as me. The only difference is he has an injen intake, a ported tb, a tune, and an xtc 2.5 dp (but that shouldn't make a difference both our dp's are 2.5) SO my conclusion would be a 2.4l n/a should use a shorty header and 2.5 exhaust for max numbers. And injen seems to do better than K&N probably cause it's a cai and not sri like k&n.

186/177: http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...CZ/Dynopic.jpg

170/174: http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...r/Jeffdyno.jpg

 

ok what the hell is wrong with my car then? before dyno tuning i dynoed 143 hp with K&n intake, vibrant mid length header and dp, and magnaflow. I run 93 octane since the day i bought it with 10k and full synthetic oil it now has 45k miles. AFter dyno tunning i dynoed 163 hp. Why are my numbers so damn low? ill have vids and dyno sheet posted shortly. before tunning i ran 15.5 consistant at the track with alot of spin off line. the lowest before tune was 15.3. Ill be going to the track soon to see what i run after tune.

 

Your problem is the K&N intake and mid length header/dp. I found that an injen or probably any cai and a shorty header seems to provide the most power and torque along with a 2.5 dp. It's looking like my research is pretty consistent then. Maybe I'm correct. Waiting to see your dyno sheet. You do have 8hp less than the guy I mentioned before though and you guys have about the same mods. He has an ark dt-s catback tho idk maybe thats less restrictive than magnaflow. *shrugs*

 

get a real tune while your at it, not that jet stuff

 

Warranty. I needz it I break ****. I can't afford to pay to play.

 

Maybe Cuz my car is a 2.4 killer. or maybe you just a a badly built engine right from gm

 

what are you talking about you ran 16.136 i ran 16.063 with a gmpp intake and lsj downpipe lol who knows what i run now. most fully bolted and tuned 2.4s run low 15s high 14s so what 2.4 killer lol

 

Individual dynos vary too much to get this in depth about it.

 

I have to. 160hp on full bolt ons bothers me. Especially when everyone else is seeing 170 180

 

You are wasting your time. The only time you could truly compare dyno numbers would be if you ran your car stock( or with x amount of mods) , then made your changes and ran it again on the same dyno(and make sure you have a correction factor on to make up for the atmospheric changes between the 2 different days, and be sure to not look at raw uncorrected numbers). Or you could have one of the 180whp cars run on your dyno the same day as you, that will give you an indication where you stand as well.

 

The only other possible mods I can do besides tuning is replace the over axle pipe and ditch my ghetto intake for an injen or aem. If I'm still not in the 170hp range after that I give the f*** up! I don't know if a rotated trans mount will make a difference but I plan on getting stage 2. BTW the fact the dyno was at 97F you think I could lose 10hp from that? And come to think of it, I'm not sure if the fan they had in front of my car was positioned enough for my intake to benefit from it. Maybe it was mostly pulling in that 97 degrees instead? Do you think that's possible? And why are the lines so squiggly? Knock? Misfire? Timing retard? Maybe I should run 93 instead of 91? I'm sorry but this really REALLY bothers me. For all the money I put into this car to just get 160 is unacceptable.

 

Your numbers on the graph are SAE corrected numbers. This means your actual numbers were much less and the correction factor added several points to your graph to make up for the less than favorable atmospheric conditions.

And I doubt you will see much more hp no matter what you do without a true tune. The Jet chip works, but if you want to be where the highest na 2.4's on the site are, you gonna need a real tune!

 

You gotta me f***ing kidding me.... LESS?! WTF!!!!

Dunkinuts 171whp, 168wtq Verified DynoJet, I, H, DP, E


I SHOULD HAVE NUMBERS LIKE HIM AND HES NOT TUNED!!!! THIS IS BS!!

5. steddy2112 167 whp, 166 wtq Verified I, E
6. G5GT2007 165 whp, 162 wtq Verified I, E


THESE GUYS HAVE LESS MODS AND STILL HAVE MORE THAN ME!!!


*kicks cobalt*

 

Buy a honda thats what I did.

cobalt is the daily driver/track support vehicle/ war wagon now.

 

Calm down, I went to a dynojet and it showed I was only making 307whp and dropping off bad up top.. My car made 340whp on a low reading Mustang dyno and have traps to show for it. You can't go by a single dyno. They all read diff and in some cases like I mentioned are just Fd up for some reason.

 

chill the hell out man, its a dyno number, dont you know dyno numbers dont me sh**? its how you drive the car man lol

 

I've dyno'd my car twice, with similar numbers each time. 08 2.4 manual.
K&N SRI, GMPP honed mani, LSJ downpipe. (Everything else is stock incl, cat back and tune.)


Mar 09
167 whp
165 torque

Dynojet, 8:30 am, 60 degrees F, humidity 23%

 

its gotta be the temp i had my car run on the dyno at then cause ****.... come on seriously even u still got more than me and u have stock exhaust

lol